Thickness of mineral wool for ceiling insulation

The conditions of the Russian climate with a short summer and a long frosty winter create the need to take additional measures to warm the residential buildings. One of them is the mineral wool ceiling lining. This procedure will ultimately help not only to increase the period of heat preservation in rooms, but also to avoid the appearance of mold and fungus on the ceiling due to condensation, which is formed as a result of a direct collision of cold and warm air.

Thermal insulation of the mineral wool

Warming of the ceiling in residential buildings is recommended to be carried out using mineral wool, because it is non-toxic and environmentally friendly material, does not rot, is refractory, and insects and rodents cannot start there.

Most importantly, it has excellent heat and sound insulation qualities. Let out mineral wool in the form of rolls and plates. Also, when choosing, it is necessary to pay attention to the foiling of the mineral wool – it is good if one side of the roll or plate is covered with a layer of waterproofing foil. If there is no such layer, then, ideally, it is necessary to additionally purchase several rolls of foiled polyethylene foam. Instead, you can use a thick plastic film. Asgamine is suitable as vapor barrier. These materials are necessary for the preservation of mineral wool in dryness, because wetted insulation loses up to 40% of thermal insulation properties. In addition, you will need screws, fastenings with a wide plastic hat, counter-rail, glue for mineral wool, profile and suspensions for the profile, stationery knife, construction stapler, nails, screwdriver, hammer and tape measure.

The most common thickness of produced mineral layers is 10 and 5 cm. When insulating the ceiling, a layer of insulation 10 cm thick is enough, in particularly difficult cases – 15-20 cm. According to the way work is done, the insulation is divided into internal, external and combined.

Mineral Wool Varieties

Internal insulation

The need for internal insulation of the ceiling is most typical for houses from several floors or with an attic, as well as for city apartments. The whole scope of work consists of the following stages:

  1. Ceiling lathing – can be made of sectional boards of 30-40 x 100-200 mm (the width of the board depends on the thickness of the insulation layer) or a metal profile. The batten is fixed to the ceiling with nails or screws, and the distance between adjacent parts should be about 50-60 cm, depending on the width of the mineral wool used.

Ceiling crate

  • A waterproofing layer is attached to the finished crate – strips of 50-60 cm wide are cut plus a tolerance of 5 cm on each side, i.e. the total width will be 60-70 cm. These strips are fixed with counter racks to the wooden crate or with screws to the profile.

  • Next, laying mineral wool and fixing it with an adhesive or a construction stapler to the ceiling, with a large thickness of the layer – to the crate.

    Fixing mineral wool to the ceiling

  • The next layer is vapor barrier using glassine. It is mounted on a mini wool with a stapler.
  • The finished design is fixed transverse fixation of the counter or profile.

    Fasten mineral wool to the ceiling

  • The procedure of internal warming is completed, the next stage is the installation on the sheathing of drywall, panels or stretch ceiling.
  • External insulation

    This method is used in private homes with attic space. Compared with the interior, this type of insulation is simpler to perform and takes much less time and effort. So:

    1. The entire area of ​​the attic is covered with a layer of vapor-insulating material (glassine) with an overlap width of 5-10 cm, the junction points are glued with adhesive tape or tape.
    2. From boards of section 30-40 x 100-200 mm (width, as in the case of internal warming, depends on the thickness of the mineral wool layer), the crate is filled. The distance between adjacent beams is calculated according to the width of the roll or plates of insulation.

    Making crate (grooves) for laying mineral wool

  • When external insulation of the ceiling on the vapor barrier is recommended laying a layer of foam thickness of 5 cm. Thanks to him, the level of vapor barrier increases significantly.

    Laying foam layer

  • Mineral wool with a layer of 10-20 cm is laid on the foam plastic. It is important that there are no gaps between the layers of insulation and the beams of the batten.

    The process of laying mineral wool in the grooves on the roof

  • If the mineral wool on one side is covered with foil, then the flooring is made so that this part is on top. In this case, an additional layer of waterproofing is not needed. If the mineral wool is ordinary, then it is carefully covered over with a layer of waterproofing material overlapped, the joints are glued with adhesive tape or tape and fix all the counter racks.
  • Next, the floor is made of wooden planks, chipboard or OSB.
  • Combined heat insulation

    Combined insulation is the installation of mineral wool on the ceiling from the inside and from the attic. This method of insulation is typical for rooms in which it is necessary to maintain elevated temperatures for a long time – baths, saunas, steam rooms, etc.

    In conclusion, a few words should be said about small tricks that will help to avoid numerous problems after the ceiling is insulated with mineral wool:

    • · The fine fibers that make up mineral wool cause itching and irritation when exposed to open skin and in the respiratory tract. In order to avoid harm to health, it is necessary to use special clothes and a respirator.
    • · When using a metal sheathing, it may later turn out that cold air continues to flow through the corners through the ceiling. To eliminate the occurrence of such a problem, after fixing the metal profile to the ceiling, all the corners are carefully filled with polyurethane foam.
    • · Due to the error in the calculations, the thickness of the layer of mineral wool may exceed the width of the batten. In this case, additional wooden bars are nailed on the wooden beams. If the lathing of the metal profile – will have to replace the suspensions or reduce the layer of insulation.
    • · When laying mineral wool it is strictly prohibited to tamping and pressing – this leads to a decrease in the number of air bubbles inside the insulation and, as a result, loss of thermal insulation properties.
    • · In the places where spotlights are installed, it is necessary to provide space for air circulation in order to avoid subsequent problems with their constant burnout.
    • · The most suitable for fixing the metal profile are self-tapping screws with a frequent section of hardened steel.
    • · To determine the current state of the insulated ceiling, use an instrument such as a thermal imager. In the on state, the screen shows in red the passages of cold air.
    • All of the above is designed to maximize ease and optimize the financial and physical costs of insulating the ceiling with mineral wool. However, for best results, you should consult a specialist. They will help to make the correct calculations of the required thickness of the insulation layer and, on this basis, to calculate the total amount of material and its cost. Often, these companies are directly cooperating with manufacturers of materials for insulation, which can result in additional savings on the acquisition.

    Video – Thermal insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool

    See also:

    • Warming of the walls with mineral wool
    • Warming of the frame house basalt wool
    • Warming of a wooden house outside
    • How to insulate a bath from the inside

    Sources: http://openoplexe.ru/st/tolshchina-mineralnoy-vaty, http://stroykadekor.ru/tehnologiya-utepleniya-potolka-minvatoy/, http://stroyvopros.net/kryisha/uteplenie-potolka-minvatoy.html

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