It is possible to kindle the stove with chimney matches or torches lowered into the tank through the hole.
Kindle the stove to work
After the stove has flared up, the hole is covered by half, and after it is heated, the flow of air into the tank is adjusted to ensure that the gases in the perforated pipe are even
Tip: It is strictly forbidden to pour gasoline, kerosene, any solvents and flammable substances into the oven. This could trigger an explosion.
More details about the design of the furnaces for testing, their advantages will show the video.
You can learn more about heating the garage with your own hands on our resource.
Furnace for working out for the garage
Furnace for working out for the garage has its own specifics of operation. It should not only warm up the entire volume of the room quickly and economically, but also burn through immediately after the fuel supply is turned off and cool down quickly. In addition, insulated capital garages are not yet very common, so the capacity of such a stove, as well as the heating efficiency, should be significantly higher than the standard of 1Kv per 10 m 2. by which energy costs are usually calculated.
Oven for working out for the garage – Photo 01
The principle of operation of the furnace in the development is the splitting of liquid fuel, mixing of these vapors with air and the combustion of the mixture obtained, that is, PYROLYSIS. This is a self-regulating and self-sustaining process, which requires starting ignition and bringing the furnace to a temperature of more than 4,000 ° C.
Advantages and disadvantages
- the simplicity of the scheme allows you to assemble the furnace on the waste oil with your own hands;
- reliability and reliability of the design;
- non-volatile technology (although the most efficient models, the schemes of which we will consider further, should be equipped with an electric fan);
- universality of use. Can be used not only for heating garages, greenhouses and outbuildings, but also for cooking;
- economy – fuel consumption is, depending on the size of the furnace, from 0.5 to 2 liters / hour.
- the main disadvantage is the rather high fire danger of some models with an open combustion chamber;
- In complex models with droplet fuel supply it is not recommended to use contaminated mining. Pre-filtering of the fuel or attachment of the filter to the oil pump nozzle is necessary;
- Be sure to install a chimney exhaust system, with a height of at least 4m. At the same time, horizontal pipe sections along the entire length of the exhaust system must not be allowed;
- systematic and fairly frequent cleaning of the furnace pan, combustion chamber and chimney is necessary;
- in the process of intensive work the furnace is quite noisy.
Furnace to work out: drawings and stages of creation (from a gas cylinder)
Diagram of the furnace to be tested – Photo 03
Before you do your own furnace on the development, it is necessary to release all the gas and drain the condensate. To do this, open the valve and spread the outlet with soap suds. After the foam has ceased to bubble, we gently twist the valve; if it is not removable, a hole is drilled in the bottom. To prevent the drill from producing a spark, we don’t strongly press the drill, but periodically pour oil or water at the drilling site.
Drill a hole in the bottom – Photo 04
The gas condensate is carefully drained away from the house, it has a sharp and persistent unpleasant odor. Fill the balloon with water to remove an explosive, air-gas mixture. After washing the billet is ready for cutting.
Cut two openings. Width – one third of the cylinder diameter. The height of the first opening 200 mm second 400 mm. web width 50 mm.
Cut two openings – Photo 05
This is the best option that will allow you to turn the upper chamber (heat exchanger) into the combustion chamber when using solid fuel.
From a steel sheet at least 4 mm thick, we cut a ring with a diameter of 295 mm (internal diameter of the cylinder). It will be a jumper between the combustion chamber and the heat exchanger. In the middle of the ring cut another hole with a diameter of 100 mm for the pipe – the burner.
Cut the ring – Photo 06
A pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a wall thickness of 4 mm and a length of 200 mm (1). Holes with a diameter of 18-20 mm (2) are drilled in the lower part. All burrs from the inside of the pipe are carefully removed. If they are not removed, the soot and soot settling down on them will narrow the inner diameter of the burner.
The membrane separator is put on the pipe and welded exactly in the middle (3). Then it is installed inside the stove and welded to the inner side of the balloon along the entire perimeter (4). It is advisable to weld the separator in the lower part of the partition, this will create a sufficient height of the rim, so that in the absence of used oil it was possible to switch to solid fuel pellets.
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For it, you can take any metal container with sufficiently thick walls, which is not afraid of temperature deformations. In this case, it is a brake disc made of heat-resistant cast iron (1).
We weld the bottom (2) and cover. As the drip furnace is being thought to work on, we leave a wide enough opening in the lid for the fuel supply (3). A branch pipe is welded on top of the lid, which will be connected to the heating pipe through a larger diameter coupling (4). This is done for easy removal of the cleaning bowl. The coupling is made from a pipe of the same diameter 100 mm, just cut along.
Fuel supply system
Insert the water pipe ½ inch (1) (with a margin) into the hole at an angle (30-40 o), weld it to the body of the stove. The place of drilling a hole does not play a special role, since the evaporator bowl is made mobile and can be turned by a receiving hole in any direction.
We lower the clutch to the end of the pipe and mark the departure distance (2), cut it with the grinder, forming a “spout” for more convenient formation of an oil trickle (3).
A conventional ball valve (4) is screwed to the tube, which will be used as an emergency backup valve to shut off the fuel supply in the event of a valve on the tank failing to run.
Heat exchanger device
The air heat exchanger is a 100 mm tube, inserted horizontally into the furnace body. For maximum concentration of hot exhaust coming from the burner, a reflecting screen of 4 mm steel (1) is welded to the top of the pipe.
The air through the heat exchanger is forced and forced at high speed channel fan (2). In order to increase the efficiency of heating the air flow, a swirler (3) is inserted into the heat exchanger tube. It consists of two squares welded together, 300 mm long, with a shelf width of 50 mm. Thus, the swirler ideally fits into the 100 pipe and does not require additional fastening (4).
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Furnace for testing with a water circuit
How to make a stove for working out more efficient and so that it can be used as an emergency source of heat supply for the whole house. This will help inset in the water heating system.
Coil binding – Photo 23
There are two main methods. Coil tying is the easiest method in terms of effort and complexity of execution. Fashionable pipe just wraps around the body of the stove and cuts into the overall heating system.
Another way is to build a water jacket around the burner tube. There are many types of such devices.
Compact models of waste oil furnaces
There are more simple models that can be assembled by hand. The stove for working out of sheet iron is more compact and fully autonomous.
Potbelly stove for working out of sheet iron – Photo 28
The principle of operation is somewhat different from the previous model. Oil is poured into the container (2) and ignited. During combustion, the temperature rises, and only after 3-5 minutes the pyrolysis process begins. The main disadvantage of such a stove is the need for constant supervision of the combustion process. It is necessary to constantly add to refining, in addition, it is a highly flammable process. Despite the fact that there is no need to filter the oil, as in furnaces with drip fuel supply systems, the quality of mining must be approached with full responsibility. If you add refining containing foreign fractions or water to a burning stove, boiling and burning oil can spill out of the bunker and burn strongly.
Operational cycle: ignition, stop, cleaning
To enter the operating mode, it is necessary that the combustion chamber is heated to a temperature of at least 4000 ° C. For this, the stove with waste oil is filled with fuel so that it only covers the bottom. Top heating oil or kerosene is added, a rag or paper is moistened in oil, ignited and thrown into the combustion chamber. The use of gasoline impregnated foam rubber is allowed.
Stopping the furnace occurs after the complete burnout of the fuel. In the case of the presence of a drip system, it simply closes the fuel line valve.
It is necessary to periodically clean the combustion chamber, the evaporator bowl and the outer surface of the heat exchanger. The accumulated products of combustion, soot soot, ash isolate the metal and reduce the efficiency of heat transfer.
Oven for testing with an open combustion chamber – Photo 29
A furnace for testing with an open combustion chamber is a source of increased fire danger. In the process of burning it needs constant monitoring. There are a number of rules governing the place where the installation of such a furnace is allowed:
- the basis on which the furnace is installed must be non-combustible: concrete, ceramic tile, metal;
- do not install the device in a draft, since a fire may burst from an open mixer;
- Do not place flammable objects near an intensively operating heater.
Fuel consumption and economic feasibility
The potbelly stove will be economically efficient only if you have access to fuel. To get it is not so difficult. A lot of service stations, car repair shops and car-care centers will gladly get rid of working off, which they would otherwise have to dispose of. The cost in the Moscow region, according to data from the Internet, ranges from 6-10 rubles. per liter with pickup.
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How to make a furnace to work out for the garage – the design and principle of operation
By choosing the method of heating the garage should be approached with all responsibility. Since this heating should be efficient and not expensive. Such heating of the garage can be done with the help of hand-made stoves.
Furnace for working out for the garage (Fig. 1) is a great way to quickly and cheaply heat. It is easy to assemble, dismantle and transport. This device is great for heating the garage, as there is good ventilation. The waste oil during the operation of the unit emits harmful evaporation, because of this, the garage variant of the furnace is significantly different from the one that is installed for heating residential premises.
Fig. 1 waste oil oven
in the garage
Advantages and disadvantages of the unit on waste oil
Furnace waste oil for the garage have the following advantages in their work:
- Economical design and fuel consumption, as well as the important role played by cheap mining;
- Reliability of a design is proved by time;
- Simple circuit design. Thanks to this, such a furnace can be easily made by hand;
- The waste oil oven is quite functional and versatile, since you can also cook food on it. Often, this unit is used not only in the garage, but also for heating warehouses, greenhouses and other outbuildings.
The disadvantages of the design of this furnace include several factors:
- You should not refill the oven with contaminated oil, you must first stand for some time or clean it with a filter;
- Insecurity. Furnace working on waste oil is flammable, its functioning should not be left unattended;
- The chimney system must be arranged so that there are no horizontal sections in it. The angle of the nozzle should not exceed 450. The length of the chimney should not be less than 4 m.
- It is necessary to conduct regular maintenance of the furnace. For example, chimney and pallet cleaning, etc.
Design and principle of operation
The waste oil furnace, which is needed for heating the garage, is made up of 2 tanks (Fig. 2). One of them is at the bottom, the other at the top and connects their pipe. Holes with a diameter of 1 cm must be drilled in this burner pipe. Air is blown through these holes for better burning.
Testing is placed in the lower tank. In the process of its heating, oil vapors are released. These vapors rise through a pipe-burner in which they mix with air and ignite with new force. The upper tank is a combustion chamber. It is here that the remaining part of the vapor burns out, and the products of combustion are discharged through the chimney.
Ignition of the furnace for working out in the garage should be carried out with the help of any combustible mixture, for example, suitable for this fire-igniting liquid. It is necessary to moisten the paper with this substance and set it on fire, and then lower it into the hole in the lower tank. At the same time, the valve is covered and a small gap must be left.
Fig. 2 Waste oil furnace design
Tools and materials for the manufacture of the unit
To make the oven to work out for heating the garage you need to prepare the following materials:
- Sheet metal 4 mm thick for the manufacture of tanks;
- Sheet metal thickness of 6 mm for the cover;
- Chimney pipe with a diameter of 10 cm;
- Corner or tube of small diameter for the manufacture of legs.
From the tools you will need a drill and welding machine. Drill is needed to make holes in the pipe for the supply of oxygen, and with the help of a welding machine connect all the details of the design. You will also need an angle grinder (Bulgarian), and with additional tools you need to take a level and a tape measure.
But there are furnace designs that can be made by hand from a gas cylinder.
Making a furnace for the garage
It is very important to prepare a place in the garage where the oven will stand on waste oil. The walls and the floor in this area of the room need to be covered with heat insulating material – sheet steel or asbestos sheets. And you can put the unit on the brickwork. First you need to make a drawing with all measurements and according to the scheme (fig. 3) assemble the unit for the garage with your own hands.
Fig. 3 Scheme of manufacture of the furnace on waste oil
Work should begin from the manufacture of tanks. To do this, take a sheet of steel with a thickness of 4 mm, and with the help of the grinder, the marked parts are cut from it. Marking should be carried out according to the drawing. As a rule, these parts are round, but square.
The parts of the waste oil furnace are connected with a welding machine. The cover for the lower tank is made of 6 mm thick sheet steel (Fig. 4). In this lid, a hole must be made with a damper through which air will flow into the first combustion chamber, and oil is poured through this hole. The valve is needed in order to control the intensity of burning.
Fig. 4 Lower waste oil tank
The lid on the bottom of the tank should be very tight, there should be no gaps. In the lid there is a round hole in the middle, a pipe-burner is welded to it, which connects 2 tanks. This pipe should be not less than 10 cm in diameter, and its length should be not less than 35 cm. 9-10 mm holes should be drilled in the connecting pipe of the furnace, they should be about 50 pcs. drill holes need to evenly across the rows.
Fig. 5 Holes in the pipe-burner furnace on waste
Further, according to the example of the first tank, the upper one, that is, the combustion chamber, should be manufactured. As in the first embodiment, the cover should be 6 mm thick steel. A chimney hole should be cut in this cover. Also, the partition is welded to the lid. It is made of steel 6 mm, and is placed closer to the chimney hole.
The finished upper combustion chamber is welded to the burner pipe. The lid should also fit well and not form gaps.
Fig. 6 All the necessary parts for assembling the unit
in oil do it yourself
All joints made by welding should be checked for tightness and sandpaper. The chimney of the furnace for working out, which is installed in the garage, must be made of galvanized steel, tin, or ceramics. For ease of maintenance of the chimney should be made removable. So it will be more convenient to clean it.
Before you install the device in the garage for testing, you need to check it on the street, that is, for the first time, it functions outdoors. It is necessary for security to understand that everything is properly assembled. It is necessary to fill in about 2 liters of oil and ignition is made. If everything is done correctly, the unit must be fully heated in 5-7 minutes.
If an unforeseen situation occurred and the furnace caught fire, then in no case should you extinguish it with water, this is done only by a fire extinguisher.
At operation of the oil furnace for garage different oil, the fulfilled type is applied. For example, motor, transmission, depreciation, transformer. Of course, it is better if the oil is clean, but even if it is contaminated there is nothing to worry about. Oil can be cleaned or defended. It is very important that the waste oil does not contain water.
For igniting the waste oil with their own hands can not use highly flammable substances, such as gasoline or acetone. During ignition, one can use such combustion catalysts as fuel oil, kerosene, bonfire ignition liquid, etc. The catalyst must be oily. After the stove is running, it is not necessary to add fuel, as the burning efficiency will drop dramatically. The refilling of the furnace with waste oil takes place only after the previous portion of oil has completely burned and the unit has completely cooled down.
Tips for servicing the unit in oil
Cleaning the heater with used oil installed in the garage should be done regularly. You can do it yourself. It consists in cleaning the lower tank, that is, the tank where the oil is located, as well as the chimney system from soot and soot settled there. It is very convenient to clean the removable chimney, it is simply removed and placed over the bucket, then by tapping on the pipe pieces of soot and soot fall out.
It is necessary to build a visor with your own hands over the hole in the pipe, thanks to which no precipitates and other garbage from the street get into the system. In order to extend the life of the unit on oil it can be painted. To do this, make a mixture of silicate glue (500 ml), aluminum powder (100 g) and chalk (10 g). The finished mixture should be applied with a brush to the surface. So the unit in the garage will last much longer.
Sources: http://1pogarazham.ru/otopitelnaya-sistema/oborudovanie-dlya-otopleniya/75-pechka-dlya-garazha-na-otrabotke, http://rmnt-aqua.ru/pech-na-otrabotke-dlya- garazha-sxemy-i-poshagovaya-instrukciya-dlya-sozdaniya-svoimi-rukami /, http://kotlomaniya.ru/pechi/pech-na-otrabotke-dlya-garazha-svoimi-rukami.html