Therefore, if you want to save heat as much as possible, or in the attic you plan to make a good sauna, then you need this vapor barrier:
Or immediately buy insulation with aluminum side:
But remember that a good vapor barrier film is still important to properly lay and waterproof, otherwise the water vapor will still find its way.
The joints of vapor barrier cloths are usually sealed with a special adhesive tape from butyl rubber, but even in this case, full tightness cannot be guaranteed. The thing is that over time, the adhesion of the adhesive layer decreases, and with the additional load, the sheets are unstuck. That is why when installing the exterior finish, when you can mount the same drywall directly on the vapor barrier, many put an additional crate. Its task is not so much to ensure that the finish is fixed more evenly (which is also important), but to press the tape or sealant with the slats.
In addition, this lathing (usually with laths up to 3 cm thick) additionally allows laying electrical wires directly under the casing, and not through insulation, as many do and it is difficult to call it a technically sound solution.
But the junction of vapor barrier to passing pipes and brick walls must be insulated with special sealants or tapes.
Another important point: never stretch the vapor barrier – mount with a small margin. The fact is that all wooden structures, which is the roof system, naturally dry out and become a bit smaller. The frame itself becomes mobile, and under the roof outside and under the cladding inside there is a risk of ruptures. And then – a surprise!
So, from the warm inside of the heater we put a vapor barrier that does not allow moist air to come from the room. And from the outer, cooler side, we are already fastening the waterproofing, which will protect the insulation under the roofing pie from external accidental leaks of melt water or rain.
And the further development of events depends on how “breathable” the upper waterproofing film turns out to be. So, if you purchased the most common roll of inexpensive waterproofing – things are bad, the moisture from the roofing pie will evaporate for a long time and hard, as a result – dampness and the gradual destruction of the insulation. But modern vapor-permeable membranes are not without reason called “smart”: they do not let moisture inside, and water vapor is taken outside. It’s all about their unusual, well-designed structure. Why it turns out that when using cheap barrier films, even expensive insulation does not last long, and repairs are just around the corner.
Please note that the diffuse membrane should fit as tightly as possible to the insulation, without any gap, like a conventional film. Otherwise, the membrane material will be cooled more strongly, and the temperature will be lower than the vapor that migrates through the insulation. You will see the result in the form of ice directly on the membrane, which will lose even more vapor-permeable properties.
Quite often, during construction, roofing material or reinforced films are installed as roof waterproofing. A couple of years later, when the attic turned out to be very necessary, and all household ones started to repair it enthusiastically, it turns out that without a complete analysis of the roof, nothing will happen.
What’s the matter? The fact is that such waterproofing does not “breathe” at all, and any insulation under it will completely be bent. That is why, if the roof of your house is still under construction, but you are considering how to postpone the attic insulation for the future, use a good super-diffuse membrane as a waterproofing.
But how can something get into the insulation, if we have already installed a vapor barrier? The fact is that not a single film in the world is capable of retaining water vapor for 100% – they are very small. And no matter how hard the manufacturers try, there is no absolute barrier. And even more: modern vapor barrier films in fact do not even cope with their work by half, and only the highest-quality ones are able to hold off steam by 75-80%. All the rest, unfortunately, penetrates inside the roofing pie.
Let’s summarize it. You should have a roofing cake with two films that have absolutely opposite properties: the inner one does not let steam in the insulation, and the second saves it from a small amount of people who accidentally get there.
If you decide on insulation and insulation materials – congratulations! Prepare everything thoroughly, calculate everything you need and proceed with courage. The main thing is to do the assembly work only in a well-ventilated area. And, finally, when working with modern heaters, many manufacturers advise to use a vacuum cleaner before warming the roof of the attic from the inside, and at the end.
It is not difficult to warm the pitched and straight walls of the attic, and the first difficulty you encounter is windows and other complex structural elements. They are also important to properly warm, not leaving any chance to leak moisture or water vapor. Do you know what are usually the most problematic places in the attic rooms that “delight” with mold and smudges? So, approach this issue seriously:
Here is another tricky moment when the attic overlap is not a lag, but a solid slab. It is necessary to warm it so:
And, finally, after attic warming, make sure that the snow does not accumulate later in the plums and on the ridge – the entrance and exit of the movement of under-roof air. To do this, it is more rational to install ventilation pipes along the entire ridge of the roof, and make the ridge itself non-ventilated. That’s all the difficulties!
When they were building their own house, at first, the attic was simply surrounded with insulation from the inside. Already with the onset of the first winter, we realized that it was ineffective. In the spring, this insulation had to be simply stripped and thrown away. And as a result, I had to redo everything.
I set up the attic with my brother recently with my own strength, we wore out with rafters, with an additional framework, and with insulating mats. And now my heart is rushing, that the described situations will not bypass me – I can see micropipes here and there, and the air has become stale. If only the mold does not “bloom” (((In the spring, if anything, I reconstruct it).
If mineral wool (ursa) is already wet, I suspect it will have to be changed or is there any correct way to dry it? And what kind of cotton wool will be more practical and durable mineral glass wool such as ursa or basalt type rock light? I saw enough information on the Internet… then dampening of the material, then mice start up… Now I don’t know what to choose, can anyone give good advice on personal experience?
Share your experience, leave a comment.
How to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside: stages of work and materials
September 4, 2016
In country houses there is often an attic floor. This kind of attic space. But if it is competently to equip, then from it the fine living room will turn out. However, we should not forget that this room needs not only an interesting finish, but also high-quality insulation. Indeed, in the summer, due to the large roof area, the room is quickly heated. In winter – instant cooling. Therefore, if you decide to equip an excellent room, initially familiarize yourself with how to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside.
Warming the attic, you must consider high-quality thermal insulation. In this case, the room under the roof has many features that should be considered during the repair.
Professionals recommend before insulating the roof of the attic from the inside, to provide the following points:
- Roof configuration. Most often, the roof is different sloping surface. It is rarely possible to meet a strictly horizontal roof. Accordingly, the heat-insulating layer will have to be laid on an inclined plane. Solid sheets will not cause any difficulties. But with soft rolls have to work hard.
- Thermal insulation. Roofing is usually used wood or other lightweight materials, which are characterized by water-repellent characteristics. But such a roof often does not have sufficient insulation. Often can be observed in the wooden crates gaps. And it provides even more heat loss.
- Warming gables. Attic consists not only of the roof. So do not forget the gables. Insulation mansandra will not provide the necessary insulation, if you do not warm these walls.
- Vapor permeability Steam condensate, rising from the rooms, it accumulates under the roof. Therefore, choosing insulation for the roof, be sure to choose a material with excellent vapor permeability.
- Security. Since the attic will become a living space, choose an eco-friendly material. It must be non-flammable and fully fireproof. In addition, this material should not be harmful to health.
The choice of insulation
Initially, you should determine what material you will use. Indeed, the thickness of the insulation and the number of required layers depend on its technical characteristics. Therefore, the insulation from the inside, start with the study of suitable materials.
The modern market provides the widest range of heaters. Consider the most popular of them.
Thermal insulation foam
The material is quite a convenient means for laying on inclined surfaces. In addition, if you decide to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside with your own hands using foam, the cost of such repairs will be quite affordable. After all, the price of the material is relatively low.
Advantages of this heater are:
- low thermal conductivity;
- small weight;
- ease of installation.
The attic made of polystyrene, despite the advantages described above, has a number of drawbacks that this material gives it. Therefore, before choosing such a heater, read them.
The main disadvantages of foam are:
- insufficient vapor permeability;
- releases fires if ignited;
- attractive to rodents.
This material is often used for insulation. Mineral wool is made of synthetic and basalt fibers, combined with stone chips.
The material has the following advantages:
- small price;
- high thermal insulation;
- environmental friendliness;
- low weight;
- fire safety (mineral wool does not burn);
- high vapor permeability.
Wondering how to choose insulation for the attic, many owners prefer mineral wool. After all, this material is distinguished not only by excellent characteristics. It is very easy to install.
Professionals argue that you can not even use fasteners. It is enough to cut the plates, whose dimensions are 2-3 cm longer than the distance between the rafters. Such pieces fit perfectly between the crossbars and will not fall out.
Extruded polystyrene foam
This is another material that can be used to warm the attic. It is made in the form of certain plates with a porous texture.
The advantages of the material are:
- high strength;
- moisture resistance;
- excellent thermal conductivity.
However, along with the advantages described above, polystyrene foam has serious disadvantages:
- high flammability;
- the ability to release toxins during combustion or oxidation (provoked by heat);
- high cost.
Considering such moments, it is extremely rare to warm the attic from the inside with polystyrene foam. Most often, this material is used for gables. However, it is often used for facade work. After all, polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture and does not let it through.
The use of polyurethane foam
This is a liquid insulation for the attic. It can be applied to any surface without any problems. This material will be an indispensable solution for complex roof configurations.
However, to work with such material, a protective suit and special installation are necessary. That is why polyurethane foam insulation is most often entrusted to hired specialists. Of course, the cost of work at times increases.
But it is polyurethane foam that creates a monolithic continuous layer that does not let in the cold. In addition, this surface does not need additional vapor barrier layers.
Use of environmental materials
Today, many owners choose heat insulators that are distinguished by high safety for both human health and the environment. They practically do not contain chemical fibers and do not emit toxic substances during combustion.
Such materials are:
- cotton fabric insulation.
The main advantages of such heaters are the following properties:
- high quality insulation;
- the ability to pass air;
- high sound insulation;
- excellent air filtration.
So, if you decide to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside with your own hands, then you need to familiarize yourself with the details of the installation. In order for the room to become livable, it will be necessary to form a certain roofing pie under the roof consisting of several layers.
Consider it in detail, starting from the inner surface:
- Drywall This material is almost always used to decorate the walls of the room.
- Vapor barrier layer. It provides condensate discharge to the outside. It is recommended to perform vapor barrier with a special membrane. She laid overlap (about 10 cm), and glue on top with scotch tape. The vapor barrier must be solid, containing no gaps or gaps.
- Crate. This is the next layer of roofing pie. It performs several functions at once. Crate supports insulation. In addition, it is the basis to which vapor barrier membrane is attached. And it is this layer that provides an extremely important gap for ventilation under the roof.
- Insulation. It is located above the crate. Depending on the selected material, as well as the planned end result, the insulation can be laid in one or in several layers.
- Waterproofing layer. It is designed to protect the insulation from getting wet. The layer is important enough. When planning how to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside, be sure not to forget about the need for waterproofing. So you protect the insulation from premature damage.
- Crate. This layer is necessary to create a ventilation space between the waterproofing film and the roof. Such a gap allows moisture accumulated on water-repellent membranes to erode. However, it is important to allow for the evaporation of condensate. For this purpose, special holes are made at the base of the slopes. Their size completely depends on the selected material for the roof. For example, the roof, covered with tiles, corrugated board, need holes, approximately 25 mm. And for roofs with flat materials, the size of such holes increases to 50 mm.
- Windproof vapor barrier. It is mounted above the second crate. It allows you to provide warmth and comfort in the room, even with strong winds. This insulation fits over the rafter legs and is carefully fixed with slats.
- Roofing. This is the finishing layer of the roofing pie.
Having dealt with the varieties of materials, having carefully studied what the roofing cake consists of, you can proceed directly to work. So, consider how to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside yourself.
The most popular material is still mineral wool. It is often used for such purposes. That is why we will understand how to properly insulate the roof of the attic from the inside with mineral wool.
The technology of work consists of the following stages:
- Training. Initially try to protect yourself from all sorts of problems. Check if the room is sufficiently ventilated? Stock up on protection. They are: respirator, construction gloves, goggles.
- Check rafter. This is the next stage of your work. Now you need to check how exactly the rafters are located. This task is performed using an aluminum long profile. It should be attached to the rafter legs. The bars, installed correctly, will completely come into contact with the profile.
- Measuring the distance between the rafters. Take measurements in at least 2 different locations.
- Preparation of plates of mineral wool. Now you can start working with insulation. To do this, using measurements taken earlier, cut out of mineral wool plates of appropriate dimensions. However, remember that the size of such fragments should be approximately 2-3 cm higher than your measurements. This will ensure good placement of the plates between the rafters and eliminate the need to fix the insulation with additional fasteners.
- Installation minvaty. To lay a heater, it is slightly compressed and placed in an interstitial niche.Mineral wool must take its original form. If wrinkles or bubbles form, be sure to even out the material. So continues the insulation from the inside of the entire surface. Place a combination of the wall with the extreme rafters sealed sealant.
- Steam insulation Laying a special film, fix it with a stapler (in increments of 15-20 cm). Apply separate fragments overlap, and glue areas of joints with a special tape.
- Making window openings. They are equipped with special structures made of wooden bars, maintaining a distance of 40-60 cm. The vertical slats are fastened with screws. Under them make out the base, which then becomes the junction of drywall with film. The frame is filled with insulation. On the slopes it is covered with a film.
- Insulation of the walls of the attic. It’s time to think about the pediments. They are warmed in the same way as the roof. Carefully work on the ends of the roof. Now they create a metal frame on which drywall will be mounted. Between such details re-laying insulation. From above it is closed with a metal profile.
- Installation of vapor barrier film. It is attached to the frame with tape and glue. Installation of drywall occurs with screws.
Attic insulation polystyrene foam
If you decide to use this material, which is, in fact, a modern advanced heir to the foam, then the technology will be slightly different. If your roof is mounted correctly, the waterproofing layer is already provided.
Attic insulation polystyrene foam consists of the following steps:
- Processing of wooden elements. Start from this stage. All wooden structures must be carefully treated with antiseptic. It is recommended to open such surfaces also with flame retardant. Be sure to allow time to soak in the means and dry completely. Moldy or rotted items must be replaced.
- Sheet fastening. Extruded polystyrene foam is placed in the gaps between the rafters. For fixing the material, you can use brackets, corners, thin slats (they are nailed across the rafters). To ensure ventilation, leave a gap between the sheets and waterproofing 2-5 cm. Styrofoam stack very carefully, leaving no distance between the sheets and the rafters. If gaps are still formed, they are sealed with mounting foam or pieces of the material itself. Sometimes polystyrene foam is laid in several layers. When the insulation is fully laid out, you should get a flat surface that does not contain any cracks or protrusions.
- Installation of vapor barrier. For the next layer, a special film is used, which may look like a perforated or foil membrane. Fix it with a stapler, with overlapping. Joints stick with a special tape.
- Fine finish. This is the final stage. Depending on your desires, you can arrange the room with clapboard, plasterboard, plastic or other materials. This finish is mounted close to the vapor barrier. If desired, you can make a thin crate, consisting of rails, and fix the selected materials for the finishing work just on it.
If the roof in your room does not reach the floor, then the room must have side surfaces. If you do not take care of the walls, then, no matter how well you insulate the roof, the attic will continue to be cold. Of course, work on a vertical surface is much easier than under the roof.
Absolutely easy to perform attic wall insulation independently. The technology works almost the same as for the roof. Therefore, if you were able to warm the roof with your own strength, then this task will not cause you any difficulties. So, which algorithm should you follow?
Stages of attic wall insulation:
- Initially fasten special rails to the surfaces.
- Now lay the insulation layer.
- Behind him must be provided for vapor barrier.
- Do not forget about waterproofing. For walls it is no less important than for the roof. Therefore, pre-lay the appropriate material that provides waterproofing.
- As a heater for the walls can be used sheets of fiberboard. Working with such material is easy. It is perfectly attached with screws or nails.
Now, knowing how to insulate the roof of the attic from the inside, you can easily cope with this task. And even if you do not plan to use the attic space as a living room, you still need to take care of the roof. After all, high-quality insulation significantly reduces the cost of heating the house. In addition, it provides a home climate in the cottage. And not least, significantly extends the life of structures.
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Attic insulation from the inside: technology and options
Warming the attic from the inside with your own hands allows you to make the room under the roof suitable for living in any season. It is important to choose the right heat-insulating material and comply with the technology of work so that a favorable microclimate is maintained in the attic and the roof system is not exposed to negative influences.
Attic insulation with mineral wool
Why attic insulation?
If the room under the roof is used only for storing unnecessary things and rare overnight stays during the summer period, there is little point in taking care of the insulation of its walls and roof. But if you want to turn the attic into a full-fledged residential floor, you will have to invest money, spend time and energy to mount high-quality insulation.
Insulated attic will not only stop freezing through the roof and walls in the winter. In the summertime, the attic room will be protected from overheating, as in the heat the air under the unheated roof gets very hot, especially if the roofing is metal roofing or corrugated flooring.
Insulation may have an additional function of sound insulation at home, but in this case it is necessary to use fibrous material – mineral wool, glass wool, ecowool. Plates of foam and expanded polystyrene do not dampen sound and mechanical vibrations; therefore, it is not rational to use such material in homes with a noisy metal roof.
Preparing the room for insulation
The choice of insulation and installation technology
Warming of a residential attic from the inside can be performed using materials with different performance properties. However, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of internal warming not only of the roof, but also of the walls – the two walls of the attic are usually the gables of the house, moreover, in some cases the floor of the attic is located below the trussing system.
Insulation of the walls from the inside has its own peculiarity: the dew point moves from the middle of the wall towards the heat-insulating layer. That is, moisture condenses in the space between the building structure and insulation. If you use fibrous material as a heat insulator (miniwatu), you will have to try to protect it from moisture, as wetting leads to a noticeable loss of thermal insulation properties and the appearance of cold bridges.
Definition of the dew point concept
It is important to isolate the fibrous insulation from moisture on both sides, because steam will penetrate into the room from it. Since the vapor barrier cannot be made completely tight around the perimeter, over time such insulation will lose its properties and will need to be replaced.
A more functional solution for the attic can be the use of a heat insulator made of foamed polymer – foam or expanded polystyrene. Vapor-proof insulation does not allow the wet air of the room to contact the wall structure, respectively, there is no condensation from its inside, despite the dew point shifted.
So, the insulation of the walls of the attic from the inside will be as reliable and durable as possible if:
- the material for thermal insulation does not pick up moisture and does not allow steam;
- the joints of the elements of insulation between themselves and the junction to the crate walls, the truss frame of the roof are hermetically sealed;
- when decorating the walls and ceiling of the attic, the integrity of the heat-insulating layer was not affected (that is, the conditions for contact of steam with the wall structures were not created).
Proper installation of a heat insulator made of foamed polymer makes it possible to solve the problem with warming the attic room for many years.
Thermal insulation of the attic floor. Installation of internal insulation inevitably requires the creation of a system in which there is no natural air exchange through the walls, so it is important to consider a ventilation system and use breathing materials for interior decoration – drywall or natural wood.
Consider the pros and cons of the most affordable heat insulators – foam and polystyrene foam.
Thermal insulation foam is a popular variant of attic insulation, which is explained by the low cost of the material and ease of installation. It can be equally used for roofing and wall construction.
The positive operational properties of the material include:
- low thermal conductivity;
- moisture resistance;
- low vapor permeability (depends on the quality of the material);
- not susceptible to rotting, mold spread;
- low weight (the truss system will not need to be further strengthened);
- ease of processing (cut with a construction knife, hacksaw with a small tooth spacing);
- ease of installation (do-it-yourself accessibility);
- low price
However, you should pay attention to a number of disadvantages:
- when insulating with foam plastic it is necessary to exclude the ingress of solar ultraviolet radiation on the material in order to avoid its destruction;
- mice and other rodents easily damage the insulation, gnawing in it moves and making nests;
- This heat insulator melts under the influence of open fire with the release of toxic substances.
When planning foam insulation, pay attention to the quality, density and thickness of the sheet material – its operational properties and durability depend on it. Sheets or plates whose density is 15/25/35 kg / m3 are used as a heat insulator for building structures. To create an internal insulation layer in the attic room, it is recommended to choose a foam with a density of 35 kg / m3.
Sheet thickness must be at least 100 mm. Before you buy, be sure to check the structure of the material. Polyfoam consists of small spheres, each of which has a closed cellular structure. The cells are filled with gas or air, which ensures a low thermal conductivity. In the manufacture of sheet material, such granules of foamed suspension polymer are sintered into a monolith.
High-quality foam plastic granule adhesion is quite high, there are practically no microscopic gaps between them. If the sheet material is easily broken and crumbled into individual balls, it means that it has a large number of technological pores between the granules and does not have the necessary vapor-tightness. Such a heat insulator requires the creation of a waterproofing barrier between it and the wall and the installation of a vapor barrier on the premises side. Otherwise, wooden structures of walls and roofs will suffer from moisture.
An alternative to insulation foam is the use of extruded sheet polystyrene foam. It compares favorably with fellow absolute moisture resistance and vapor resistance – closed-cell material has no technological pores. This allows you to equip the insulation layer without installing a vapor barrier membrane.
The advantages of polystyrene foam also include low weight and ease of installation, excellent thermal insulation properties. Another important plus is that rodents are indifferent to it, they do not gnaw at it and do not settle in the insulating layer.
Wall thickness comparison for different materials
The degree of fire resistance of foam plastic depends on the type of material, but in general, this insulation is more resistant to the effects of open fire compared with foam.
Expanded polystyrene is stronger and more rigid than polyfoam, it is produced in slabs with smooth edges or sheets with tongue-and-groove joints. For insulating the attic, a cheaper first option is suitable, since pieces of heat insulator are placed between the rafter legs or the sheathing on the walls. Penoplex thickness should be at least 100 mm.
Tools and materials
To perform attic insulation with your own hands, using polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam as a heat insulator, you will need:
- construction knife / hacksaw with a small tooth for cutting insulation sheets;
- polyurethane foam;
- reinforced adhesive tape;
- self-adhesive tape;
- construction steppler;
- hammer and nails with umbrella hats;
- wooden block;
- electric drill with wood drills;
- screwdriver and screws on wood;
- waterproofing film;
- drywall or wooden lining for interior plating.
If you want to save as much as possible, the waterproofing barrier during insulation with foam plastic can be performed using ordinary high-density polyethylene film. However, proper insulation dictates the choice of special membrane materials. In this case, the system will last much longer without losing its performance.
The thickness of the sheet foam or polystyrene should correspond to the size of the timber from which the rafters are made, so that the insulation can be laid flush in one or two layers. When laying in two layers, the total thickness of the heat insulator should be 150-200 mm.
Installation of a waterproofing barrier
To eliminate the risk of condensation of moisture from the inside of the rafters and wall structures when using foam plastic, the waterproof barrier should be installed first. The rolled material (film or membrane) must be laid in such a way that it envelopes the rafters and lies on the back side of the batten. It can be fastened with brackets using a construction steppler, but double-sided tape is also allowed.
The waterproofing layer should be a seamless canvas without seams. If you have to dock pieces of film or membrane, you need to perform an overlap of at least 15 cm wide and carefully glue the joints with reinforced tape.
Installation of a waterproofing barrier
If the end walls of the attic (gables) are made of timber or building blocks, you must choose one of two mounting options:
- waterproofing film is attached with a double-sided tape on a flat surface of the wall, after which the sheet heat insulator will need to be fixed with nails with umbrella-caps;
- a crate of bars is installed on the walls, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the selected heater; a waterproofing barrier is mounted on top of them according to the same principle as on the rafters.
Particular attention should be paid to the mounting of the waterproofing membrane in the ridge of the pitched roof, at the base of the walls, around the skylights. Glue all joints around the perimeter with reinforced or aluminum tape.
In the case when polystyrene foam is chosen as a heat insulator, there is no special need for waterproofing – the insulation will not allow moisture from the room to the wooden structures, if you take care of the tightness of the seams when laying insulation.
Mansard roof is a variant of a broken truss structure; it can have a complex configuration. Light sheet material is convenient for warming such systems, since it can easily be cut into fragments of the required size.
How to warm the attic with your own hands? Using a tape measure, measure each gap between the rafters, so that pieces of sheet foam or polystyrene foam fit into the cell tightly, without gaps. The elements of insulation are adjusted exactly along the width of the cells, they usually have to be joined along the length, trying not to leave even small lye.
In order for the attic to be warm, it is necessary to exclude the occurrence of cold bridges – for this purpose all joints and gaps, junction of the heat insulator to the rafters, are sealed with mounting foam. After it hardens, cut off the excess with a sharp mounting knife.
Attic flooring with foam plastic
If we are talking about insulation foam on top of the waterproofing barrier, the installation of heat insulator is completed.
Thermal insulation of polystyrene foam plates itself serves as a vapor barrier, if you seal the seams, so after curing the foam and removing excess all joints must be glued with reinforced tape.
The attic insulation technology from the inside implies the transformation of the room under the roof into a thermos container – heat should not escape through the walls and roof, and moisture should not have access to wooden roof structures. Otherwise, laborious and complex repair of trusses damaged by rot and crates will be required.
It is important to take care of the effective removal of excess moisture, otherwise the wooden structural elements and finish will be damaged by the fungus. In addition, a surplus of moisture makes the indoor microclimate harmful to human health. In the attic there should be opening windows for airing the room, as well as a good ventilation system.
If the attic is being built and insulated with its own hands, it is not difficult to take care of a suitable inner lining. Standard materials of its manufacture:
- wooden lining;
- wood panels.
Gypsum board, which is available in the form of sheets with a tongue-and-groove joint, makes it possible to quickly mount a flat skin. It is fastened with screws to a wooden frame, the place of fastening on top of the recessed hats and the seams are rubbed with putty. In the future, the skin can be painted or pasted over with wallpaper.
Wooden wall paneling is a beautiful and practical natural material. The lining of the wall panel can be painted or tinted with stain, varnished. Pre-lining should be treated with antifungal and flame retardant.
The lining of the attic wooden clapboard
Wood-based panels, if they are made without the use of resins harmful to human health, can also be considered as a material for covering the ceiling and walls of insulated attic. After sealing the seams, the walls and ceiling are painted or pasted over with wallpaper.
Regardless of the choice of finishing material, if the attic is insulated with foam or polystyrene foam, it is recommended to leave an air gap between the inner lining and the heat insulator – for this, an additional sheathing of small section bars is installed.
Wood and drywall are breathable materials, they absorb excess moisture from the air. Backlash clearance will ensure air circulation and reduce the risk of over-wetting of the material. The lack of direct contact with the moisture-absorbing sheathing with the rafters will save the roof frame from damage by the fungus.
If you build your house, insulate the attic in it, you should not simplify the work technology and use cheap materials of low quality – this will directly affect the quality of life in the house and the durability of the building.
Sources: http://krovgid.com/izolyaciya/uteplenie-mansardy-iznutri.html, http://fb.ru/article/264543/kak-uteplit-kryishu-mansardyi-iznutri-etapyi-rabotyi-i-materialyi, http://vseokrovle.com/krysha/205-uteplenie-mansardy-iznutri.html