The substrate under the laminate is designed to perform several functions: to compensate for slight differences in the level of the floor; serve as thermal insulation; contribute to the absorption of extraneous sounds.
At the same time, an extensive selection of substrates of various materials is available for sale:
- polyethylene foam;
- from a bituminous cloth with pith grains;
- polyurethane foam, with increased density.
Depending on the material, in the form of release there are sheet and rolled supporting materials. The substrate under the laminate is always laid only end-to-end, and the seams between adjacent canvases are taped to avoid displacement. Then you can proceed directly to the installation of laminate.
Let us consider in detail the technology of laying laminated panels, which includes several successive stages.
Starting from the corner of the room, located at the window, lay out the first row of panels along the wall, connecting them together with the end parts. It should be remembered that the laying of the panels on the plank base should always be made across the floorboards. To provide the necessary clearance, restrictive plastic or wooden wedges are placed between the laminate and the wall.
Reaching the opposite wall, measure the remaining distance, and the laminate is cut to size with an electric jigsaw. With the piece remaining after trimming, the installation of the next row begins. For laying fit a piece of laminate, if its length is 20 cm or more. At the same time, we note that too short pieces may make the floor pattern inaccurate. To avoid this, you can cut a piece of 2/3 of the length of the new panel, laying out the laminate method with an offset of “a third of the length.”
Thus, they achieve a beautiful visual effect, when the end seams of the adjacent rows of panels do not coincide in one place, but go in a run. Assembling the second row of panels is the same as the first.
Similarly assemble all subsequent rows of the laminate. In this case, the locks, if necessary, can be lightly tapped with a hammer through a wooden bar.
During laying, care should be taken that there are gaps between the laminate and the walls on all sides of the room.
When the entire laminate has already been laid and only the last row of panels is left, as a rule, it may be necessary to cut them in two lengthwise. It is best to cut the laminate with an electric jigsaw, trying to make it as even as possible. However, even if the line turned out to be imperfect, it would still not be visible under the plinth.
Upon completion of all installation work, the wedges between the laminate and the walls are removed, and then the gaps are closed with baseboards around the perimeter of the room.
Guided by our recommendations, as well as photos and video materials, you can easily install the laminate on the plank floor with your own hands, without spending a lot of time and money.
Laying laminate on uneven wooden floor
In this article we will talk about the experience of laying laminate on wooden floors in a panel house. It will be about the budget repair, which everyone can afford.
That was how the floor looked like before repair…
The first problem faced by every resident of a panel house is the creaking of wooden floors. That is why this is happening: the floorboard was nailed to the logs with nails that had loosened over time, and the floor began to creak.
The next problem is a very uneven floor with large differences between the boards. To lay the laminate, such a floor must be leveled, and the maximum allowable height differences should not exceed 2 mm by 1.5 m.
To eliminate these problems, we decided to level the wooden floor using plywood. But if you just screw the plywood over the creaking boards, then, of course, it will not be better. Therefore, first you need to strengthen the floor with screws.
We dismantle the old plinth. If it is plastic, there will be no problems, but the wooden plinth needs to be torn off with a mount or a nail catcher. We pull out all the sticking nails, remove the large projections with a plane. Before plywood flooring, do not forget to wash and vacuum the floor well.
We are preparing a wooden floor for repair
Now it is important to determine at what height the wooden floor above the slab is raised; for this, 1-2 holes are drilled in the boards. Know the distance between the base and the boards need to determine the size of the screws for the floor. Usually it is 8-10 cm, but on the ground floor there are also all 25 cm.
After raising the floor level, the door may not open: the thickness of the laminate with the substrate is almost 1 cm + plywood thickness (at least 0.6 cm). If the door is old, then you can easily saw it with a hacksaw, just by removing it from the hinges. And for trimming the door with a laminated coating, it is imperative to place a thick plywood under the bottom, otherwise chipping will appear at the cut.
Calculation of materials
Tools for laying laminate Next, you need to calculate how many screws are needed. To do this, we look at the total amount of lag in the room (they can be found on the nails or seen in the crack near the wall). Then we count the number of boards in width and multiply the resulting amount by the amount of lag.
Each board is screwed with 1 screw to the lag, every 40-60 cm. For example, if there are 11 lags and 28 boards in a room, then 308 screws will be needed + 10-20% for the stock.
Plywood is better to fasten every 15 cm, if less – it will swell and hang out when walking. The length and width of the room is measured and divided by the amount of 15 cm, and then multiplied values. For example, our room is 3×5.6 m. We divide 3 meters by 0.15 = 20 pieces, we divide 5.6 meters by 0.15 = 38 pieces. Now multiply 20 by 38 and get 760 pieces, + 10-20% for the stock. For plywood, self-tapping screws for wood of 25-30 mm and thickness of 3-3.5 mm are suitable.
Now we consider how much laminate is needed. To do this, you need to find out the size of the room, and the calculation is already done in the store, because the laminate panels have different parameters. Our room is 17 sq. M. m. In one box laminate area of about 2.6 square meters. m. We divide 17 by 2.6 = 6.53. We round it up in a big way, so we will need 7 boxes, and half of the box will be in stock, in case of a marriage.
This should be enough if you lay the laminate in the usual way: the cost of trimming is about 5%. If laying is diagonal, the stock should be at least 10%.
When buying laminate it is important that the delivery lot on all the boxes is the same. In boxes with different batches the color of the pattern may differ. Also, the pack must be intact, otherwise the locks may be damaged.
Now count the number of plywood. We chose plywood with dimensions of 1.43 x1.52 m, that is, the area of 1 sheet would be 2.17 square meters. m. We divide the area of the room (17 sq. m.) by the area of plywood and get 7.8 sheets. So, you need to buy 8 sheets of plywood. The plywood thickness must be at least 12 mm.
Strengthening boards with screws
So, all the materials purchased, proceed to strengthen the floor with screws. The site has an article about what to do with the creaking of the floor in the apartment, it partially describes this work.
Since the screws were difficult to enter into the tree, at first we drilled the holes about 70% of the length of the screw, and then we screwed the boards to the logs with screws.
We strengthen the floor in rows of lags
Of course, if you have a powerful screwdriver, you will be able to accomplish this much faster without additional drilling. In our case, the cheapest Chinese screwdriver, which quickly sat down, so all the work stretched out for several days.
The main thing is to screw the boards tightly to the lags so that they do not hang out when walking.
Since the doors will soon be changed, we file off the slopes for the installation of the plinth.
We file door slopes
During work, it turned out that from under the floor from the street side it was blowing too hard, so I had to seal the gap with foam. In this case, you need to moisten the surface before treatment with water, and also to spray the foam after application, because moisture is necessary for the polymerization process of the mounting foam.
From this gap strongly blew from the street So much better
To level the floor with plywood, put the sheet on the floor and fasten it every 15 cm with screws. Do not forget to leave a small gap between the sheets and near the wall. The leveling of the plywood sheets is controlled by level. Sheets that require pruning are sawn with a hacksaw or jigsaw.
Laying the substrate
The cat was scared… Substrate, we chose the cheapest polypropylene. Before laying again vacuum the floor.
We lay the substrate with a margin on the walls, so that we can cut off the excess, and glue it together with scotch tape. The substrate must lie in a single layer, butt joint.
After finishing the preparation of the floor, proceed to laying it laminate. Prior to this, it is necessary to store the laminate for several days indoors (to adapt the material to the temperature and humidity of the air in the apartment).
Laying start from the corner of the room, preferably from the most prominent place. However, there is a small nuance: if the door opens into the room and no one plans to remove it, then the laminate will start to be laid from it, otherwise it will not be possible to lay the last row.
Begin laying door
It is best to place the wide joints of the laminate along the light from the window, so it will be less visible slots (over time they will increase).
Modern laminate mounted without glue, locking method. This type of flooring is called floating because it is not rigidly fixed to the floor, but lies loosely on the substrate. During the change of season, the coating slightly changes its size, therefore it is impossible to screw the laminate onto the floor firmly on the screws. Along the perimeter of the panel there are locks that connect, if you insert one of the panels at an angle, and then lower it.
To see how this works, watch the video tutorial:
The panel is laid in a corner and the next is joined from the short side. So we collect the first row. The last panel is likely to have to file. This can be done with a jigsaw or saw, but that the teeth are small, otherwise the laminated surface will be chipped.
First row ready
The main rule when laying laminate is to leave a gap of about 1 cm around walls, pipes, doors and other obstacles. You should not make a gap more than 2 cm, because the thickness of the plinth will not be able to block it later.
A wedge is needed to withstand the same gap near the wall. For convenience of installation in stores sell a special set for laying laminate. It includes wedges of the same thickness, mounting paw for the installation of the last row and wedge panels.
For additional sealing of seams, you can buy a special paste-sealant and coat the locks with it before joining. However, in wet areas it is better to put commercial linoleum. tile or porcelain tile.
The second row fits in the same way as the first, and then is inserted into the previous one. To simplify the task, we recommend laying the panels as close as possible to the lock, then just lift the entire row and snap it in place. This is done by simply pressing the row at an angle.
To connect the insert panel at an angle
Then we lower the panel so that the second row lies next to the first We join adjacent rows with our hands
As a result, the joint should not be visible
Some types of locks do not allow laminate to join the whole series to the previous one, but one by one. For example, Quick Step laminate has universal locks: they can be inserted horizontally or at an angle. At the same time, there are Click-locks that only horizontally hammer.
It is not necessary to immediately leave a gap between the first row and the wall. It will be more convenient to assemble 3-4 rows, and then move them to the wall, and you can put something heavy on top. This is much easier, especially if the wall is not very smooth.
Another important feature – the panels are laid in a checkerboard pattern. If the first row started with a whole laminate panel, then the second one needs to start with a half, and the third one again with a full panel. So connections of locks will be more dense, and the expense on scraps will become minimum.
Half the room is ready
Thus, in staggered order lay the remaining rows of the laminate. When we reach the heating pipe, cut a round hole with a jigsaw or a drill. Then the piece is simply laid and pressed with a baseboard or glued onto liquid nails.
When we reach the last row, you need to file each panel width, taking into account the gap. Installation occurs in the same way, we snap it by pressing firmly on the panel at an angle.
Floor is almost ready
The plastic plinth with a cable channel consists of two parts. The first is fastening to the wall, and the second is a decorative attachment that snaps from above. There is also another type of fastening – metal brackets are fastened first, and then the plinth is put on them.
We drill holes for dowels approximately every 30 cm and fasten one part of the plinth. Fasten the main part, hide the wires, then put on a decorative nozzle. For a beautiful dock, we use special components for the plinth: adapters, external and internal corners, plugs.
We put a special stroke around the pipe to hide the gap (it costs about 50 rubles). In our case, the pipe was very close to the wall, so we had to cut the plinth and saw off the stroke, and then glue it onto liquid nails.
Buy the plinth and all the components together with the laminate. Otherwise, if there is a shortage of material, you will have to travel around a lot of stores before you can find the right color.
And the final touch – mount the door sill. It is needed to hide the height difference between the rooms. The rules for laying laminate require splitting different rooms with a gap so that the coatings are independent. However, in practice, if the same coverage is chosen for adjacent rooms, you can not use the bridge, but do everything without seams: it will be nicer, and cleaning will be easier. If then some defect appears, it is more convenient in fact to cut off the coating in the doorway.
The cost of repairing the floor
It’s time to count the costs. How much was spent on repairing the wooden floor in the panel house?
- Birch plywood 6 mm thick, 8 sheets – 2300 rubles.
- Laminate Kronostar Pear White class 31 – 7 boxes. Q1 m. cost in Leroy Merlin 235 rubles. Total 4112 rubles.
- The substrate under the laminate of polypropylene – 1 roll thickness of 2 mm, a length of 25 m – 320 rubles.
- Screws and dowels – about 600 rubles.
- Plastic plinth with a cable channel of 8 pieces of 2.5 m each – 150 rubles.
- Stroke around the pipe, connectors and corners for the plinth – 420 rubles.
- Porozhek – 160 rubles.
As a result, the amount is: 9112 rubles.
Cat clearly did not like the new slippery floor
- Plywood is better to take thicker, 6 mm is still not enough, so you should not save on it. Next time we would have plywood of at least 12 mm. If the floor is too uneven, then you need to lay the plywood in 2 layers, with offset joints.
- We advise you to choose not too thick or long screws, they will be difficult to twist.
- You can not buy a soft backing thicker than 3 mm, it will be very springy when walking, and the floor under you will be pressed through. To find out more information, we recommend reading our article on the choice of the substrate.
- If the laminate is laid on a concrete floor, then before laying the substrate, you need to lay a layer of polyethylene for waterproofing.
- For productive work you need a good screwdriver with a powerful battery. So you will save a lot of time.
Having spent a small amount on repairing the old wooden floor, we got rid of the squeak, made it smooth and pleasant to walk. It took three days to prepare the floor for laminate flooring, and one day was spent on laying it alone.
Types of cork for finishing the floor, the pros and cons of cork covering, how to lay cork laminate on the floor with your own hands.
Ways to prepare a wooden floor for laying tile. Proper installation of tiles on a wooden base.
How to put the floor of the grooved boards with their own hands. The technology of laying wooden floor on logs, concrete and screed.
We have a wooden floor quite strong, but with many layers of paint. Is it worth it and under the 6mm plywood to put the substrate? Thank.
Hello! Thanks for the article, very detailed all painted. I would like to ask you for advice. We have 2 small dogs in the house, we put a laminate in the room, but a loud noise from claws emanates from it, we can especially hear it at night. The substrate used is cork, does not help. Tell me, what are the alternative coating options instead of laminate?
I would choose vinyl tile at your place: http://remboo.ru/pol/samokleyushhayasya-vinilovaya-plitka.html
No noise, durable and beautiful in appearance, easy to clean. You can choose collections under the laminate with a texture.
The second option is a laminate with a cork coating: http://remboo.ru/pol/ukladka-probkovogo-pola.html#heading-2.
Due to this, it is not so cold and almost silent. The traffic jam will be nice to walk even barefoot.
Remove dogs from the apartment is the best option, or shod dogs in slippers.
The author, I bought the same laminate in lerua exactly 3 years ago? But! Attention!I put it on the LOGIA! On which, again, attention!?
It happens Snow, Rain, and even frosts from -15 to -40 in our latitudes are not uncommon. Is it still as good as new? At the same time, moisture naturally falls on him, both in summer and in winter, and it freezes on it and naturally turns into ice crusts in winter, and simply into ice, and he doesn’t care.?To be honest, I myself am surprised at why 6mm laminate, the cheapest and easiest that I originally laid for the purpose of a maximum of 1 year, but this option turned out to be so resistant to atmospheric phenomena.
The loggia is 1×5 meters, the order in which the work was done: put plastic film on the concrete; 0.5 cm, on the board lay the substrate, on the substrate the laminate, the laminate tried to lay very tightly without lye. Well, and the gap between the laminate and the walls 0.5cm.
Went 4th year, buduzuyu winter more than sure that he will survive. Good luck to everyone, do not be fooled by ads, think with your head. VUAL…
And why lay the substrate on the wooden floor?
Kettle article for dummies. Laminate for 150 rubles will disappoint in a couple of years. Screws need to take long and strong, and not pick them up under the screwdriver. You need to twist them with a good tool, at least with a perforator (with a drill mode). Even 9 mm plywood is not enough. For such a floor must be taken at least 12 mm. it is better to fasten plywood with a good tool, so that the caps are recessed.
1) A similar laminate floor has been in my bedroom for 3 years, until everything is ok. In this case, the last time laying was even without plywood, because floor condition allowed. As an economical option to repair the floor, this material is great. If I bought commercial linoleum at 500 rubles per square, 8500 rubles would be spent on a room, against 7300 rubles. even without plywood and screws, this is already more expensive. Although linoleum will be more durable, of course.
2) Naturally, small screws will not work. The article says how to choose their length. I took them almost the entire length of the lag + floorboard. 90% of the squeak disappeared after such a scroll.
3) In the first photo you can see that a bit from a screwdriver is worn on the perforator. Although, of course, it is much more convenient to do this with a powerful screwdriver – there will be no tearing of the head, the work will be quieter and faster.
4) Regarding the thickness of the plywood. Either take one thick, or do the laying in 2 layers.
Hello, I would like to say thank you in advance for the article, I have leveled the floor in this way, but my entire floor is at a slight angle, I would like to ask if you can lay laminate on such a floor.
We use a wooden floor as a basis for laminate
Wooden floors as a base for laminate are not used as often as a concrete base. And for this reason there are a lot of questions about whether the option of installing laminated boards on such a floor can really be done qualitatively. In this article, we will reveal all the secrets of laying on a new and old board floor, as well as share tips on choosing a wooden floor.
We have previously studied how to lay laminate on a concrete floor. Now we have to learn the features of installation of laminate on the wooden floor. Laminate panels are fastened only between themselves, that is, to nail or glue such a construction to static surfaces (ceiling, walls, floor) is impossible. Such a floor is constructed according to the so-called floating scheme, due to which it is freely located on a rough base. It does not interfere with the basis of expansion or contraction due to temperature changes, fluctuations in the level of humidity in the room and other factors.
Installation rules and requirements
There is a general list of requirements not only for the material to be laid, but also for the base. As is the case with tips on choosing a class of laminate for an apartment on concrete surfaces, there are also some nuances for laying on the plank floor. The following rules are present in the SNIP guidelines. which need to adhere to when installing laminate coating:
- The differences in the flat surface should be no more than 2 mm over an area of 2 square meters of the floor.
- The maximum allowable grade level is 4 mm. It should be evenly distributed within a radius of 2 m.
Modern specialists in preparing the base and laying laminate do not advise to deviate from the technical requirements. Otherwise, the castle systems will be damaged: the grooves will begin to loosen, the fragile ridges will break, and soon you will have to restart it again.
In the case when the damage was caused not on the entire surface, but only on some boards, it is possible to partially replace the unsuitable elements. But such work is quite laborious and laborious. You will have to dismantle the laminate panels to the places where the already repaired elements are located, and then begin repairing other damaged boards.
At the end, you reverse the laminate using the same technology as the first time.
Old wooden floor
The old plank flooring will have to be removed completely to the bar that performs the support function. For many years of exploitation, the organic matter of natural wood has probably suffered from the effects of moisture, as well as fungus or mold that has formed.
You should take a closer look at the floor construction, cutting out logs and beams that are unsuitable for further service.
- Replace damaged parts with new and reliable materials.
- In the low-subfloor design, remove the boards, turn them upside down.
- Fills and cracks fill the repair composition or construction foam.
- Worn old boards boldly change to new ones.
- Reinforce the floorboards, then begin scraping the surface.
- Treat each element of the old design with fire retardant and antiseptic impregnation.
Today, literally in any hardware store special mastic is sold. It performs both of these functions, which are very important for natural wood.
In diagnosing a new plank floor there is no need, since the installation was carried out recently, the surface is even and covered with all the necessary impregnations from mold and mildew.
To prepare you will need:
- Check fasteners.
- If the fastener is a little loose, then we update it.
- “Immersed” caps screws or nails on the board by 1-2 mm.
- Fill the gaps with sawdust mixed with wood glue or construction foam.
- Remove debris and dried foam (if necessary).
Gender with constructive impairment
The floor covering with significant bumps, cracks and other violations to begin with must be repaired.
The most common problem is a large drop in ground level.
So, when detecting various floor faults you need to do the following:
- Rotten or damaged boards are completely dismantled and replaced with new ones. Well, if the flaws are found only on the outer part, then the board can simply be turned over and securely fastened.
- If the elements of the subfloor are loose, they are fastened with screws. Very often, after strengthening the floor, many people use scraping technology. In this case, screws are replaced by ordinary nails, caps which are recessed into the surface of the tree.
- Sometimes not only boards, but also lags themselves are loosened. We fasten them together, for which we make through holes in the concrete base, and using our anchor we fasten our logs.
- Fill holes, cracks or crevices with ordinary putty. In any hardware store you will find this material made specifically for use on wooden surfaces.
- If the floor sags, then we mount special wedges to support under the logs. The process is quite simple: disassemble the flooring in problem areas, mount the wedges and reassemble the boards. In case of damaged logs, the frame should be completely replaced, so that in the future there will be no problems with the operation of the floor.
Technology laying laminated boards
After all the preparatory work, proceed to the laying of laminate panels.
A substrate with a thickness of about 3 mm, made of cork wood or foamed polypropylene, is mounted on a flat base. This material is installed on the butt joint technology and is connected with a sticky building tape or a wide adhesive tape.
On a wooden base installation is made from window openings in the direction of the entrance door. Due to this, the joints will be almost invisible.
The first row should not be laid against the wall, but at a distance of 10-11 mm from the wall covering. For the quality of the task, you need to insert a wedge between the laminate board and the wall. These actions are performed so that when temperature changes the material has a place for compensatory linear variation.
Next, we begin the installation of the second board – insert it into the locks of the first panel at an angle of 25 degrees. At the end of the first row you will encounter the problem of trimming the last board, but the installation of the second row will begin with this trimmed piece.
Remember that each new row of panels should move a distance of 40 cm from the joints.
The joints between the first and second rows should be minimized. To do this, perform a light tapping toward the first clutch – the boards are securely connected to each other. These actions are performed until the joints are almost imperceptible and proceed to the installation of the following rows.
Laying plinths is a mandatory and final point of laminate mounting technology. This part should be securely fixed on the extreme plates of the material, giving it a finished appearance.
Collection and calculation of the necessary materials
Installation of laminate, as well as any construction and repair process, should be carried out only after preliminary calculations and the purchase of all necessary materials. Make a small plan, which will show all the openings and architectural features of the room. This will help determine the method of laying and correctly calculate the required amount of material.
Laminate flooring is usually purchased with a margin of about 5-7% for direct mounting, and up to 15% for laying at an angle.
The substrate is selected in accordance with the brand of the laminated surface. Its size will correspond approximately to the area of the room, from 10-15 cm to the ledges to each wall.
When preparing a subfloor, special attention should be paid to the level of differential. Sandpaper is used for minor imperfections, but the following methods are used for a plank surface with more severe bumps and other imperfections.
Large differences in the level of a wooden floor are corrected by chiseling. Also, an ordinary plane is used, but this process is quite laborious and lengthy, so most often they resort to the first option.
Before starting scraping, deepen the heads of all the nails into the wood surface to avoid damage to the polishing machine.
Local irregularities of the floor can be eliminated using manual sanding or sandpaper.
The floor is best divided into several sections in order to maximize the quality of the entire surface. After completing work on each such site, carefully check the level of differences.
At the end of the scraping, check the level again. Do not forget to remove wood dust, sawdust and other debris from the finished boards so that small particles do not fall into the locks of the laminate panels.
Using chipboard or plywood
Laying out plywood sheets or chipboard is another method for aligning the rough base. We present to your attention tips that will help to carry out their installation with high quality and quickly.
Fireplace in the living room interior
Features of the use of a bathroom made of molded marble in the interiors are described here.
- Use material of considerable thickness, which will be at least 15 mm.
- Flooring should be treated with a fungicide or linseed oil to prevent mold and mildew.
- Use the extra mount in the form of wedges under the logs. They can be made of plastic or wood. When using the adjustable lag, it is best to set the levels with the help of special screws included in the design.
- Measure the floor perimeter and cut the chipboard or plywood with a circular saw designed for woodworking.
- Lay the trimmed panels on the base and carefully monitor the level drops. In problem areas you can use linings to level the surface.
- Further, the sheets are attached to the base so that the resulting seams do not converge at one particular point.
Both of these methods allow you to quickly cope with the task of leveling the floor. You can do all the actions yourself, without calling specialists.
Video Layout Review
Tips for choosing laminate flooring
Laminated boards should be laid across the wooden floor. Special substrate strips should also be mounted perpendicular to the plank surface, so its direction will coincide with the direction of the laminate.
As for the laminate and the choice of the one suitable for such purposes, you should refer to the article “Laying features and methods of laminate calculation”, which describes in more detail how to choose and calculate the laminate for your home.
Laminated boards from modern manufacturers can be installed not only on the concrete surface. but also on the wooden floor. The flooring in the form of wooden planks will last you for many years and will not lose its quality characteristics only if all the construction details of this base are replaced during the installation process.
Sources: http://polspec.com/laminat/kak-polozhit-laminat-na-derevyannyy-pol-ukladka-svoimi-rukami-na-primerakh.html, http://remboo.ru/pol/ukladka-laminata- na-derevyannyiy-pol-i-vyiravnivanie-faneroy.html, http://trendsdesign.ru/materialy/napolnye-pokrytiya/laminat/ispolzuem-derevyannyj-pol-kak-osnovu-po-laminat.html