After leveling the floor and cleaning it from debris, a springy damping tape is laid to damp sounds along the walls. So that the seams of the substrate do not fall on the joints of the boards, sheets or roll substrate roll out across the floor across the direction of the laminate lamellas.
It fits only the smooth side up and is interconnected end to end, without overlap. To avoid shearing the substrate, all sheets are fastened together with building tape. If the damper tape is not used, you can put the edges of the substrate a little to the wall a couple of centimeters. In the future, the excess is cut off. In order not to crush the porous material while walking, it is not recommended to lay the entire substrate at once – it is better to lay it out as needed.
Laying laminate step by step
1. To protect the laminate from swelling during temperature drops, small spacers made of plywood or small bars 0.5-1 cm thick are placed between the lamellae and the wall.
It is not recommended to lay laminate against the walls.
2. In order for the joints between the lamellae not to be noticeable, they must be arranged so that the light passes along them (the narrow side to the window).
3. The first row is located spike against the wall.
4. Next, laying is done only with offset seams (in a staggered manner), that is, the center of the next row should fall at the joint of the previous lamellae. In order to get a similar offset, the first board of the second row is cut by half or (long boards) by 2/3.
5. Slats can have two types of fasteners. On each package there is an icon indicating the type of attachment and methods of its connection.
6. When attaching the click type (the most common), the board to be docked bends slightly at an angle of 30 and with a small effort pressed against the second lamella until a characteristic click. To strengthen the connection, the joined boards are lined up with a rubber hammer. Boards with fastening type lock are simply hammered into the next with a small tap of the hammer until it clicks.
The procedure for laying laminate
Council In order not to damage the fragile slats, when trimming the boards with each other, you can use a wooden bar through which the boards are hammered.
7. The lamellas adjacent to the pipes are cut in half so that the cut falls on the center of the pipe. Further, holes are cut in the boards a couple of millimeters larger than the diameter of the pipe. Rubber seals are placed to seal the joint and quench sounds (metal and bimetallic pipes are very good sound conductors).
Installation of laminate at batteries
8. To get a neat joint, door jambs are slightly filed down the thickness of the lamella.
The jamb is filed at the bottom so that the lamella enters
9. The transition to another room can be arranged with an aluminum sponge, which is inserted between the laminate boards, or with a special wooden spike gusher.
Video: Laying laminate on wooden floor
We use a wooden floor as a basis for laminate
Wooden floors as a base for laminate are not used as often as a concrete base. And for this reason there are a lot of questions about whether the option of installing laminated boards on such a floor can really be done qualitatively. In this article, we will reveal all the secrets of laying on a new and old board floor, as well as share tips on choosing a wooden floor.
We have previously studied how to lay laminate on a concrete floor. Now we have to learn the features of installation of laminate on the wooden floor. Laminate panels are fastened only between themselves, that is, to nail or glue such a construction to static surfaces (ceiling, walls, floor) is impossible. Such a floor is constructed according to the so-called floating scheme, due to which it is freely located on a rough base. It does not interfere with the basis of expansion or contraction due to temperature changes, fluctuations in the level of humidity in the room and other factors.
Installation rules and requirements
There is a general list of requirements not only for the material to be laid, but also for the base. As is the case with tips on choosing a class of laminate for an apartment on concrete surfaces, there are also some nuances for laying on the plank floor. The following rules are present in the SNIP guidelines. which need to adhere to when installing laminate coating:
- The differences in the flat surface should be no more than 2 mm over an area of 2 square meters of the floor.
- The maximum allowable grade level is 4 mm. It should be evenly distributed within a radius of 2 m.
Modern specialists in preparing the base and laying laminate do not advise to deviate from the technical requirements. Otherwise, the castle systems will be damaged: the grooves will begin to loosen, the fragile ridges will break, and soon you will have to restart it again.
In the case when the damage was caused not on the entire surface, but only on some boards, it is possible to partially replace the unsuitable elements. But such work is quite laborious and laborious. You will have to dismantle the laminate panels to the places where the already repaired elements are located, and then begin repairing other damaged boards.
At the end, you reverse the laminate using the same technology as the first time.
Old wooden floor
The old plank flooring will have to be removed completely to the bar that performs the support function. For many years of exploitation, the organic matter of natural wood has probably suffered from the effects of moisture, as well as fungus or mold that has formed.
You should take a closer look at the floor construction, cutting out logs and beams that are unsuitable for further service.
- Replace damaged parts with new and reliable materials.
- In the low-subfloor design, remove the boards, turn them upside down.
- Fills and cracks fill the repair composition or construction foam.
- Worn old boards boldly change to new ones.
- Reinforce the floorboards, then begin scraping the surface.
- Treat each element of the old design with fire retardant and antiseptic impregnation.
Today, literally in any hardware store special mastic is sold. It performs both of these functions, which are very important for natural wood.
In diagnosing a new plank floor there is no need, since the installation was carried out recently, the surface is even and covered with all the necessary impregnations from mold and mildew.
To prepare you will need:
- Check fasteners.
- If the fastener is a little loose, then we update it.
- “Immersed” caps screws or nails on the board by 1-2 mm.
- Fill the gaps with sawdust mixed with wood glue or construction foam.
- Remove debris and dried foam (if necessary).
Gender with constructive impairment
The floor covering with significant bumps, cracks and other violations to begin with must be repaired.
The most common problem is a large drop in ground level.
So, when detecting various floor faults you need to do the following:
- Rotten or damaged boards are completely dismantled and replaced with new ones. Well, if the flaws are found only on the outer part, then the board can simply be turned over and securely fastened.
- If the elements of the subfloor are loose, they are fastened with screws. Very often, after strengthening the floor, many people use scraping technology. In this case, screws are replaced by ordinary nails, caps which are recessed into the surface of the tree.
- Sometimes not only boards, but also lags themselves are loosened. We fasten them together, for which we make through holes in the concrete base, and using our anchor we fasten our logs.
- Fill holes, cracks or crevices with ordinary putty. In any hardware store you will find this material made specifically for use on wooden surfaces.
- If the floor sags, then we mount special wedges to support under the logs. The process is quite simple: disassemble the flooring in problem areas, mount the wedges and reassemble the boards. In case of damaged logs, the frame should be completely replaced, so that in the future there will be no problems with the operation of the floor.
Technology laying laminated boards
After all the preparatory work, proceed to the laying of laminate panels.
A substrate with a thickness of about 3 mm, made of cork wood or foamed polypropylene, is mounted on a flat base. This material is installed on the butt joint technology and is connected with a sticky building tape or a wide adhesive tape.
On a wooden base installation is made from window openings in the direction of the entrance door. Due to this, the joints will be almost invisible.
The first row should not be laid against the wall, but at a distance of 10-11 mm from the wall covering. For the quality of the task, you need to insert a wedge between the laminate board and the wall. These actions are performed so that when temperature changes the material has a place for compensatory linear variation.
Next, we begin the installation of the second board – insert it into the locks of the first panel at an angle of 25 degrees. At the end of the first row you will encounter the problem of trimming the last board, but the installation of the second row will begin with this trimmed piece.
Remember that each new row of panels should move a distance of 40 cm from the joints.
The joints between the first and second rows should be minimized. To do this, perform a light tapping toward the first clutch – the boards are securely connected to each other. These actions are performed until the joints are almost imperceptible and proceed to the installation of the following rows.
Laying plinths is a mandatory and final point of laminate mounting technology. This part should be securely fixed on the extreme plates of the material, giving it a finished appearance.
Collection and calculation of the necessary materials
Installation of laminate, as well as any construction and repair process, should be carried out only after preliminary calculations and the purchase of all necessary materials. Make a small plan, which will show all the openings and architectural features of the room. This will help determine the method of laying and correctly calculate the required amount of material.
Laminate flooring is usually purchased with a margin of about 5-7% for direct mounting, and up to 15% for laying at an angle.
The substrate is selected in accordance with the brand of the laminated surface. Its size will correspond approximately to the area of the room, from 10-15 cm to the ledges to each wall.
When preparing a subfloor, special attention should be paid to the level of differential. Sandpaper is used for minor imperfections, but the following methods are used for a plank surface with more severe bumps and other imperfections.
Large differences in the level of a wooden floor are corrected by chiseling. Also, an ordinary plane is used, but this process is quite laborious and lengthy, so most often they resort to the first option.
Before starting scraping, deepen the heads of all the nails into the wood surface to avoid damage to the polishing machine.
Local irregularities of the floor can be eliminated using manual sanding or sandpaper.
The floor is best divided into several sections in order to maximize the quality of the entire surface. After completing work on each such site, carefully check the level of differences.
At the end of the scraping, check the level again. Do not forget to remove wood dust, sawdust and other debris from the finished boards so that small particles do not fall into the locks of the laminate panels.
Using chipboard or plywood
Laying out plywood sheets or chipboard is another method for aligning the rough base. We present to your attention tips that will help to carry out their installation with high quality and quickly.
Fireplace in the living room interior
Features of the use of a bathroom made of molded marble in the interiors are described here.
- Use material of considerable thickness, which will be at least 15 mm.
- Flooring should be treated with a fungicide or linseed oil to prevent mold and mildew.
- Use the extra mount in the form of wedges under the logs. They can be made of plastic or wood. When using the adjustable lag, it is best to set the levels with the help of special screws included in the design.
- Measure the floor perimeter and cut the chipboard or plywood with a circular saw designed for woodworking.
- Lay the trimmed panels on the base and carefully monitor the level drops. In problem areas you can use linings to level the surface.
- Further, the sheets are attached to the base so that the resulting seams do not converge at one particular point.
Both of these methods allow you to quickly cope with the task of leveling the floor. You can do all the actions yourself, without calling specialists.
Video Layout Review
Tips for choosing laminate flooring
Laminated boards should be laid across the wooden floor. Special substrate strips should also be mounted perpendicular to the plank surface, so its direction will coincide with the direction of the laminate.
As for the laminate and the choice of the one suitable for such purposes, you should refer to the article “Laying features and methods of laminate calculation”, which describes in more detail how to choose and calculate the laminate for your home.
Laminated boards from modern manufacturers can be installed not only on the concrete surface. but also on the wooden floor. The flooring in the form of wooden planks will last you for many years and will not lose its quality characteristics only if all the construction details of this base are replaced during the installation process.
Laying laminate on wooden floor
To acquire a durable, beautiful and even flooring on a wooden base, it is not necessary to invite professionals whose services are expensive. After all, the modern market of building materials offers a variety of tools that allow you to perform repair work yourself. For example, laminate is gaining momentum in popularity, not only because of enviable strength, but also ease of installation. Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor is a process that everyone can easily implement on their own. Just have a little patience, a few hours of free time and theoretical information on the topic.
Laminate – one of the fastest and easiest ways to transform the look of the room. In Europe, it appears in the 80s, whereas in Russia it becomes known only in the 90s of the XX century. Laminate is a wear-resistant panel with a thickness of 6-11 mm, which can be painted under sand, marble, massive board, stone. Plates are easy to transport, install and maintain.
The top layer is a durable film that protects sheets from sunlight, mechanical abrasion, moisture. The second layer is paper with printed texture. The third is a fibreboard that gives strength to the coating. Finally, the final layer is again paper soaked in various resins to protect against the effects of liquids.
Laminate – a kind of “floating floor”, which does not need to be fastened with nails. Plates are connected at the docking or lock. An indisputable advantage is the possibility of laying on all types of floor coverings (concrete, linoleum, wood), which have not lost their operational properties, but they have had time to become obsolete.
It should be noted that the lifetime of the laminate is largely determined by the correct choice of its type. It turns out that this flooring is different. So the class of laminate (from 31 to 34) is chosen based on the characteristics of the room, for example, a class 31 laminate is suitable for the bedroom, and for a hallway where the intensity of loads is much greater, it is better to buy a laminate of the 33rd class.
It is important!
After the laminate is purchased and brought home, you should hold it for several days in the room where the installation work will take place. This is necessary in order for the plates to adapt to temperature and humidity, to take appropriate dimensions.
It is important to understand that when using the phrase “wooden floor” it is not only wood that is meant. It can be hardboard, plywood, chipboard, parquet. All of the listed surfaces are subject to various factors contributing to deformation (mechanical pressure, moisture, linear and non-linear expansions), while the main condition for proper installation of the laminate on a wooden floor is a perfectly flat surface.
The first step is to assess the condition of the floor. Horizontalness is verified using a building level. Length up to 2 meters allows drops of not more than a few millimeters. If the irregularities exceed the permissible limits, it is necessary to level the floor with a grinder.
Also need a stiffness check. If the boards bend even from your weight, you need to take care of their replacement or strengthening.
It is important!
Boards knock. When nails are detected, they are embedded or pulled by self-tapping screws. After all the activities carried out again assesses differences.
As already mentioned, a perfectly flat surface is the key to the success of the whole event, so take this matter as seriously as possible. You can level the floor in several ways:
If we are dealing with a very old warped floor, self-leveling compounds can be applied. How is the process going?
- Grind the base of the floor, clean it from varnish and paint. In the presence of wide voids or seams we close them up with putty;
- After the surface dries, primer the floor with a waterproof primer, which will provide the necessary adhesion of the self-leveling compound and the wooden base;
- Along the perimeter of the room walls are insulated. In the place of transition of coatings we create a seam from a strip of expanded polystyrene;
- Water level mark the floor height, not forgetting to take into account the minimum allowable thickness of the coating specified by the manufacturer. Consider, if you plan to raise the level of the floor, then the fill is carried out in two stages;
- We attach a reinforced mesh to the primed floor using a construction steppler, we connect the joints with an overlap of 5 cm;
- Having prepared the leveling mixture according to the instructions, let it stand for 15 minutes, mix thoroughly;
- Pour the solution onto the prepared reinforced surface, remove the bubbles with a rubber spiked roller, and then level the surface with a spatula, with a rule or a mop.
Such putty mixtures are very popular, because they allow to level the floor of a large area, while spending a minimum of funds. The screed is as follows:
- Beacon rails are stuffed on a clean floor, the gaps between them are filled with a mixture of PVA and sawdust. So that the sawdust does not draw water from the PVA, they must first be moistened;
- If necessary, the imposition of putty in several layers with a thickness of 2 cm is allowed. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has dried;
- The end result is checked by the building level, we put it where necessary additional portions of putty.
It is necessary to know!
The main disadvantage of this leveling method is the long time required for shrinking and drying the layers.
This is the most popular method of leveling a wooden floor, providing a flat draft floor on which the laminate will lay down without problems. It is better to use plywood class 4/4 and above, the thickness should be at least 15 mm. So, we proceed:
- We install self-tapping beacons that are screwed to the required height over the entire floor area. Self-tapping screws are installed in the corners of a square with a side of 30 cm.
It is important!
The thicker the plywood, the less frequently lighthouses are located.
- We lay logs – plywood strips 35 mm wide, which are attached with glue or self-tapping screws. In the places where there are voids between the floor boards and the lags, we put plywood bars smeared with glue;
- Cooking sheets of plywood for styling. It is recommended to cut them into squares with a side of 60 cm. Do not forget to inspect the ends of the blanks, if there are any bundles, the sheet must be replaced;
- We place the squares on the lag grid, making sure that the joints fall on the lags. Laying should be done with a certain offset so that there is no intersection of the seams. We cut through plywood in size, paying special attention to the shape of the floor in the places of projections, bay windows, arches;
- Fasten the sheets of plywood to the logs with self-tapping screws with countersunk head, countersinking the attachment points. Next you need to lay the substrate.
Mounting plywood to lags
The substrate provides depreciation, heat saving and noise absorption, so you should not save it. It is the substrate that will protect the flooring under undistributed effects, for example, when transporting furniture. Variants of substrates – mass. This may be foamed polyethylene, linoleum, cork, jerks.
Recently, the cork substrate is often used. It is difficult to find a more reliable material: the cork is universal and just remarkably conceals bumps. Of course, the price is quite high, but it is not a pity to pay for the benefits received.
Having achieved a flat surface, you can proceed to the installation of laminate. But first, you should determine the direction of installation. If the windows are located on the same wall of the room, then experts advise laying the laminate along the direction of sunlight. Otherwise, the shadows of the joints will be more visible and can spoil the overall impression.
Consider the direction of sunlight
By type of compound laminate is divided into adhesive and locking. The lock, depending on the snap-in system, is divided into a collapsible view (Click-locks) and locks (locks-locks).
With a tape measure we measure the width of the room and calculate the width of the panels of the last row. With a width of less than 5 cm, the boards in the last and first row need to be cut so that the width is the same.
It is important!
Consider the gap from each wall, it must be at least 10 mm.
Installation starts from the far left corner.
Installation begins from the left far corner in the direction of light along the wall with the long side of the laminate sheet. Do not forget about the wedges with a thickness of 10 mm for the gaps that are needed so that in case of expansion the laminate does not “stand on end.” You should be aware that in the room more than 12 m interval should be increased.
It is necessary to stack in staggered order.
The first board is laid in the left corner, the next sheet is inserted into it from the front side (at an angle of 30 degrees) and snaps onto it by pressing it to the floor. End seams of each subsequent row are shifted relative to the previous one by 40 cm in order to achieve staggered order and uniform pressure distribution.
If at the end of the row the panel has been trimmed, then the rest of this sheet is used at the very beginning of the next row. And if you got an integer number of sheets in a row, then to get chess order, start with the panel, cut into two parts.
In this case, the spike of one panel is inserted into the slit of another. Sheets should lie flat. Then they are joined to each other with a hammer and a bar. As in the above case, we calculate the width of the last row, taking into account the gap. Depending on this indicator, we saw the boards so that they are identical.
Laying laminate lock-lock
Start laying from the left corner. To the first panel from the front side, hold the second sheet, insert it into the groove of the previous panel and beat. So we pack the whole row. Starting the installation of the second row, remember that the joints need to be shifted to get chess order. The last row is laid with the help of a clamp, for which you will need to cut off the panel smoothly to fill the space left between the wall and the last but one sheet.
Glue is applied on the ends of the panels, then the sheets are joined according to the “tongue and groove” principle. It is better to apply glue along the entire length of the groove. We put the first row: we lay the first sheet with a groove to the wall, apply glue on the upper edge of the next panel with excess. We connect the details. The tongue of the second panel is neatly knocked down.
The first sheet of the second row should be cut in half to displace the seams. We coat the side of the groove of the sheet of the second row and fasten it to the panel of the first. Again we beat. So we continue to complete the installation of laminate. When installing the last row, you can use the crowbar to tightly join the rows.
Laying adhesive laminate
A small nuance – in rooms with a length of more than 10 meters, it is recommended to arrange anti-deformation joints, which are closed by the threshold. Porozhek is attached to the base of the floor and serves as a compensator, allowing the laminate to “walk”, which is essential for the proper organization of the process of operation.
That’s all. It remains only to install the plinth so that they fit snugly to the laminate, but do not press it to the floor. Types of plinths set: choose the option for your newly laid laminate is not difficult.
Sources: http://svoimi-rukamy.net/104-laminat-na-derevyannyy-pol.html, http://trendsdesign.ru/materialy/napolnye-pokrytiya/laminat/ispolzuem-derevyannyj-pol-kak-osnovu- po-laminat.html, http://mrpol.su/finishnye-pokrytiya/laminat/ukladka-laminata-na-derevyannyj-pol.html