Laminate on wooden floors in the apartment

After leveling the floor and cleaning it from debris, a springy damping tape is laid to damp sounds along the walls. So that the seams of the substrate do not fall on the joints of the boards, sheets or roll substrate roll out across the floor across the direction of the laminate lamellas.

It fits only the smooth side up and is interconnected end to end, without overlap. To avoid shearing the substrate, all sheets are fastened together with building tape. If the damper tape is not used, you can put the edges of the substrate a little to the wall a couple of centimeters. In the future, the excess is cut off. In order not to crush the porous material while walking, it is not recommended to lay the entire substrate at once – it is better to lay it out as needed.

Laying laminate step by step

1. To protect the laminate from swelling during temperature drops, small spacers made of plywood or small bars 0.5-1 cm thick are placed between the lamellae and the wall.

  Laminate on wooden floors in the apartment

It is not recommended to lay laminate against the walls.

2. In order for the joints between the lamellae not to be noticeable, they must be arranged so that the light passes along them (the narrow side to the window).

3. The first row is located spike against the wall.

4. Further laying is made only with offset seams (in a staggered manner), that is, the center of the board of the next row should fall at the joint of the previous lamellae. In order to get a similar offset, the first board of the second row is cut by half or (long boards) by 2/3.

5. Slats can have two types of fasteners. On each package there is an icon indicating the type of attachment and methods of its connection.

6. When attaching the type of click (the most common), the board to be docked bends slightly at an angle of 30 and with a small effort pressed against the second lamella until a characteristic click. To strengthen the connection, the joined boards are lined up with a rubber hammer. Boards with fastening type lock are simply hammered into the next with a small tap of the hammer until it clicks.

The procedure for laying laminate

Council In order not to damage the fragile slats, when trimming the boards with each other, you can use a wooden bar through which the boards are hammered.

7. The lamellas adjacent to the pipes are cut in half so that the cut falls on the center of the pipe. Further, holes are cut in the boards a couple of millimeters larger than the diameter of the pipe. Rubber seals are placed to seal the joint and quench sounds (metal and bimetallic pipes are very good sound conductors).

Installation of laminate at batteries

8. To get a neat joint, door jambs are slightly filed down the thickness of the lamella.

The jamb is filed at the bottom so that the lamella enters

9. The transition to another room can be arranged with an aluminum sponge, which is inserted between the laminate boards, or with a special wooden spike gusher.

Video: Laying laminate on wooden floor

Technology laying laminate on wooden floor

Repair in the apartment very often means not only updating the interior décor, but also replacing the old flooring with a more modern one. Often, this stage of repair becomes the most problematic. This issue is especially acute for apartment owners in Khrushchev, where the floors are plank, because, if you look, then there are not so many floor coverings that are compatible with laying on wood. In most cases, it is necessary to dismantle the wooden floor with the subsequent preparation for laying a new floor covering. But this procedure is not only lengthy, but also quite expensive, which pushes for the choice of coverage that can be laid without removing its old wooden floor. The best option in this case is considered to be laminate, which can be quickly and without difficulty placed on any wooden base without resorting to the services of specialists. How to lay laminate on a wooden floor in the apartment and will be discussed further.

The expediency of such a method

To assess the feasibility of using a laminated coating for laying on a wooden base, it is necessary to carry out a full diagnosis of the latter, because very often the wooden flooring is susceptible to fungi or mold, the influence of external factors can lead to surface deformation, bending and creaking. Therefore, you should pay attention to the following points when checking the board base to make sure that you can lay the laminate on the wooden floor:

  • dryness – this indicator should be given special attention, since the surface rotting or fungal infection of the board will continue after the installation of lamellae. Over time, this problem will spread to the laid laminate flooring;
  • Hardness is the strength of the wooden base under the laminate, another important factor that should not be deprived of attention. It depends on how long the new coating will last without flaws and deformations;
  • evenness – care should be taken to ensure that the surface of the previous coating was as even as possible. A deviation of 2 mm per 2 m length is allowed. Otherwise, the laminate lamellae will begin to creak, and the castle joints will undergo deformation.

First, assess the condition of the wood flooring.

With detailed requirements for working with wooden floors for laying laminate can be found by viewing the video. If the base still has flaws that can be eliminated, then laying the laminate on a wooden floor is made only after their elimination.

If there is a large amount of damage to the plank floor, it is still recommended to dismantle it completely, followed by pouring the area with a concrete screed.

How to lay on a wooden floor laminate

The technology of laying laminated lamellas on a wooden base consists of several steps of preparatory work and the flooring of the laminate itself. Before you put the laminate on the wooden floor you need to prepare all the necessary materials and tools. Then, the state of the base surface should be evaluated and, if necessary, work should be done to eliminate the deficiencies identified on it. The next stage is the flooring of the selected substrate, on which the selected type of laminate is already laid.

Required Tools

Starting to prepare the necessary tools and materials, the priority should be given to the choice of the laminate itself, which consists of several layers and may have a different basis.

Laminated board has the following structure:

  • overlay – a protective layer that prevents damage to the lamella from different types of effects: chemical, biological, mechanical;
  • decorative layer – the material that sets the color of the board, its drawing. The reliability of the layer provides melamine impregnation;
  • the base is a plate made of high-density wood-fiber materials. From the density of the base depends on the quality of the panels and, accordingly, the scope of application. The basis can be MDF or chipboard plates;
  • stabilizing layer – protects against moisture leakage, as it contains paraffin or melamine paper.

Type of laminate is selected depending on the scope of its application and the room permeability.

Materials required for use:

  • laminate of the corresponding class from 31 to 33;
  • substrate;
  • fasteners for wood;
  • mastic;
  • timber.

To work, you will need a set of the following tools:

  • carpenter’s hammer;
  • square;
  • mallet;
  • ruler;
  • jigsaw;
  • construction vacuum cleaner;
  • nail catcher;
  • saw;
  • level or level;
  • hacksaw;
  • perforator;
  • brushes;
  • screwdriver;
  • cyclovochnaya machine.

Equipped with such a composition of tools and materials, you can proceed to the next stage of work.

Tools for laying laminate

Diagnostics and repair of the base

Before you lay the laminate on the wooden floor, it is necessary to carry out his scrupulous inspection and, if there is such a need – a repair that can be done independently. What points should be paid attention to and how to eliminate the identified shortcomings are discussed below:

  • blacked out or rotted wood floors. For minor damage to the material, you can lay the same board, just turning it over. The place that has been affected by mold or rot must be treated with a special compound. If the tree has deeper damage, it is better to carry out a complete replacement of the board section;
  • when squeaking floors or a small subsidence in certain areas, it is necessary to additionally fix the boards using screws or nails. It is necessary to drive their caps deep into a wooden surface. Otherwise, the metal, which will protrude beyond the surface, will damage the power tools used in the future – a cycling machine or electric planer;
  • if the boards “play” under their feet along with the lags, then it is necessary to fix the lag itself. To do this, the lag is attached to the concrete base with an anchor, having previously drilled it;
  • small cracks or cracks between the boards can be filled with putty. Eliminate large gaps by using foam;
  • in case of significant subsidence of floors or differences exceeding the norm, it is necessary to level the framework directly by removing the pre-plank flooring. To eliminate non-essential flaws, support wedges are used, which are mounted on the logs. In case of significant height mismatches, a complete replacement of the frame is necessary.

Preparation of a wooden floor for repair Scroll the floor in rows of lags

Upon completion of all the preparatory work, the base for laying laminated boards should be perfectly smooth, which can be checked using a level or level. If you put the laminate on a uneven wooden floor, it will inevitably appear squeak, the life of the flooring will be small, since the locks of the slats will disperse from the loads, thereby violating the integrity of the surface.

Wood floor leveling

It has already been mentioned above that the final result of the work directly depends on how smooth the base surface will be. Therefore, the issue of leveling the board foundation should be approached with all the responsibility, because even minor irregularities will subsequently cause squeaks or breakdowns. There are several common ways to level the surface on a wooden base.

Wood floor scrapping – with slight unevenness of the wood base, you can use the scrubbing method or similar surface treatment with an electric planer. This method will give the desired result with minor deviations from the norm of the height difference, which should not exceed 4-6 mm per 1 m 2. For ease of operation and easier grinding control, the floor surface is better divided into several squares. Upon completion of all work, it is necessary to check the surface level and carefully remove sawdust and dust with a vacuum cleaner. If the irregularities occupy a small space, then you can get rid of them with emery paper or using the method of manual scraping.

The use of self-leveling mixture – if the floor is very old, and there is no desire or opportunity to replace it with a new one. Before pouring, preparatory work should be carried out: clean the floor from paint, seal up the voids, if any, with a putty, prime the dried surface, mark the floor with a level, fill it with the prepared mixture and smooth the surface.

Leveling wooden floor with putty on the basis of PVA. The use of such mixtures is more acceptable when working with large surfaces. A screed with such mixtures consists of several successive stages: installation of beacon rails, filling gaps with wet sawdust and diluted mixture, checking the flatness of the surface, eliminating deficiencies. If necessary, you can apply several additional layers of putty with a thickness of about 2 cm. The new layer is poured only on the dried out previous surface, which requires time-consuming.

Sealing of cracks and cracks with putty

Leveling with plywood – plywood under the laminate on the wooden floor is the most common method of leveling the base plane. Class plywood should not be below 4/4, and the thickness – less than 15 mm. Plywood should be pre-impregnated with special compounds that prevent the rapid deterioration of the material. From these indicators will depend on the final result. Laying plywood on a wooden floor under the laminate floor begins with leveling the subfloor. For this, wedges are installed under the logs. Then plywood is laid with complete horizontal control. If necessary, place the slats under the chipboard sheets. Then the plywood is attached to the frame base joint to joint. In more detail with the hands of the alignment of the floor can be found by viewing the following video.

Laying the substrate under the laminate

For additional leveling of the floor, a special waterproofing material is used – the substrate, which takes place between the draft level floor and the laminate. Laying the substrate is made as an adhesive mixture, and without additional fastening. In the second case, the joints are fixed with scotch tape. The optimum material thickness is 3 mm. Wooden floors before laying the substrate must be thoroughly cleaned from dust and small particles.

The substrate serves for the following purposes:

  • heat and sound insulation;
  • prevent laminate from rubbing against wooden floors;
  • increased structural strength;
  • additional alignment of the base layer.

For work use a substrate from the following materials:

  • polyethylene foam;
  • bung;
  • bituminous cloth;
  • polyurethane foam.

To cover the wooden base is better to use a substrate of natural materials.

Gluing the substrate at the joints

Laying laminate

Before you lay the laminate on the wooden floor, it is necessary that the laminated lamella be acclimatized. To do this, they are kept indoors for 2-3 days. This procedure helps the material to come into balance with environmental indicators.

Before starting work on finishing the floor area, it is necessary to figure out how to lay the laminate on a wooden floor and what determines the method of placing the lamellae. Laying laminate can be perpendicular or parallel to the window, which is the source of light, and diagonally. Diagonal placement of the lamellae contributes to the visual expansion of the room. Perpendicular laying helps to hide the joints.

Work on the flooring should begin with the marking of the floor, which is then measured the distance and the calculation of the number of boards for laying. At this stage of work, it should be taken into account that the next laid laminated row should be displaced at a distance of at least half the length of the lamella, which forms the necessary mismatch of the seams. Consider how to lay laminate on wooden floor using different methods of laying.

Laying the first row Stitching Lining of the lock of a laminate

Click system

Relatively new and easiest way to install, which allows you to quickly and efficiently lay slats on the wooden floor with your own hands. Laminate with a Click lock begins to be laid from the far corner in rows, leaving a gap of 10 mm between the wall and the first one next to the installation of special wedges. This procedure helps to avoid deformation of the laminated panels when temperature drops or changes in humidity in the room. The slats are joined by connecting the locks of the slats at an angle of 20-30 degrees and then snapping on the surface with force. The Click connection system allows you to disassemble the required part of the floor for repairs.

Lock system

Laminates with such a system begin to lay from the corner that is furthest from the doorway. Docking lamella occurs horizontally. To do this, the spike of one lamella is inserted into the groove of an already laid panel and knocked until fully fixed with a rubber cue. Pre-fit a long row with full fixation. Between the wall and the floor, it is necessary to organize a temperature gap of 3-5 mm. For the flooring of the last row, the lamella is cut to fill all the remaining space. Tapping is best done not at the end of the laminate, but using a buffer bar for this purpose. In this way, damage to the surface of the laminated board and deformation of the lock can be avoided.

Glued laminate

The most time consuming method of laying laminated boards, so this type of laminate is very rare. This method of laying for rooms with high humidity is relevant. The connection of the panels occurs in the way of groove groove. The ends of the laminated boards are coated with excess glue and are combined with the locks of the next board. For stacking the second row, the first lamella is cut in half, which allows you to start laying with offset seams. For better fixation of the flooring, you can use adhesive tape. Use the finished surface can be no less than 12 hours. Thematic video will allow you to visually understand all the nuances of working with laminate.

Plinth installation

Upon completion of the work on laying laminated panels, it is necessary to carry out the final stage – installation of baseboards. In the case of laminate flooring, any kind of baseboard must be fixed to the wall. For this fit dowels, screws or glue.

The plinth can be used of all types and modifications – wooden, flexible, plastic or MDF, solid or with a cable channel. The main rule in this case is the organic combination of the new floor with the plinth.

As you can see, laminate flooring is not so difficult. It is important, before putting the laminate on an uneven floor, to carry out all the necessary work to eliminate the deficiencies, and then, the coating will delight its owners for a long time with durability and reliability.

Video about laying laminate flooring

The video details how to lay the laminate on the wooden floor.

Laying laminate on uneven wooden floor

In this article we will talk about the experience of laying laminate on wooden floors in a panel house. It will be about the budget repair, which everyone can afford.
That was how the floor looked like before repair…
The first problem faced by every resident of a panel house is the creaking of wooden floors. That is why this is happening: the floorboard was nailed to the logs with nails that had loosened over time, and the floor began to creak.

The next problem is a very uneven floor with large differences between the boards. To lay the laminate, such a floor must be leveled, and the maximum allowable height differences should not exceed 2 mm by 1.5 m.

To eliminate these problems, we decided to level the wooden floor using plywood. But if you just screw the plywood over the creaking boards, then, of course, it will not be better. Therefore, first you need to strengthen the floor with screws.

Preparatory stage

We dismantle the old plinth. If it is plastic, there will be no problems, but the wooden plinth needs to be torn off with a mount or a nail catcher. We pull out all the sticking nails, remove the large projections with a plane. Before plywood flooring, do not forget to wash and vacuum the floor well.
We are preparing a wooden floor for repair
Now it is important to determine at what height the wooden floor above the slab is raised; for this, 1-2 holes are drilled in the boards. Know the distance between the base and the boards need to determine the size of the screws for the floor. Usually it is 8-10 cm, but on the ground floor there are also all 25 cm.

After raising the floor level, the door may not open: the thickness of the laminate with the substrate is almost 1 cm + plywood thickness (at least 0.6 cm). If the door is old, then you can easily saw it with a hacksaw, just by removing it from the hinges. And for trimming the door with a laminated coating, it is imperative to place a thick plywood under the bottom, otherwise chipping will appear at the cut.

Calculation of materials

Tools for laying laminate Next, you need to calculate how many screws are needed. To do this, we look at the total amount of lag in the room (they can be found on the nails or seen in the crack near the wall). Then we count the number of boards in width and multiply the resulting amount by the amount of lag.
Each board is screwed with 1 screw to the lag, every 40-60 cm. For example, if there are 11 lags and 28 boards in a room, then 308 screws will be needed + 10-20% for the stock.

Plywood is better to fasten every 15 cm, if less – it will swell and hang out when walking. The length and width of the room is measured and divided by the amount of 15 cm, and then multiplied values. For example, our room is 3×5.6 m. We divide 3 meters by 0.15 = 20 pieces, we divide 5.6 meters by 0.15 = 38 pieces. Now multiply 20 by 38 and get 760 pieces, + 10-20% for the stock. For plywood, self-tapping screws for wood of 25-30 mm and thickness of 3-3.5 mm are suitable.

Now we consider how much laminate is needed. To do this, you need to find out the size of the room, and the calculation is already done in the store, because the laminate panels have different parameters. Our room is 17 sq. M. m. In one box laminate area of ​​about 2.6 square meters. m. We divide 17 by 2.6 = 6.53. We round it up in a big way, so we will need 7 boxes, and half of the box will be in stock, in case of a marriage.
This should be enough if you lay the laminate in the usual way: the cost of trimming is about 5%. If laying is diagonal, the stock should be at least 10%.

When buying laminate it is important that the delivery lot on all the boxes is the same. In boxes with different batches the color of the pattern may differ. Also, the pack must be intact, otherwise the locks may be damaged.

Now count the number of plywood. We chose plywood with dimensions of 1.43 x1.52 m, that is, the area of ​​1 sheet would be 2.17 square meters. m. We divide the area of ​​the room (17 sq. m.) by the area of ​​plywood and get 7.8 sheets. So, you need to buy 8 sheets of plywood. The plywood thickness must be at least 12 mm.

Strengthening boards with screws

So, all the materials purchased, proceed to strengthen the floor with screws. The site has an article about what to do with the creaking of the floor in the apartment, it partially describes this work.

Since the screws were difficult to enter into the tree, at first we drilled the holes about 70% of the length of the screw, and then we screwed the boards to the logs with screws.
We strengthen the floor in rows of lags
Of course, if you have a powerful screwdriver, you will be able to accomplish this much faster without additional drilling. In our case, the cheapest Chinese screwdriver, which quickly sat down, so all the work stretched out for several days.
The main thing is to screw the boards tightly to the lags so that they do not hang out when walking.
Since the doors will soon be changed, we file off the slopes for the installation of the plinth.
We file door slopes
During work, it turned out that from under the floor from the street side it was blowing too hard, so I had to seal the gap with foam. In this case, it is necessary to moisten the surface before treatment with water, and also to spray the foam after application, because moisture is necessary for the polymerization process of the mounting foam.
From this gap strongly blew from the street So much better

Plywood leveling

To level the floor with plywood, put the sheet on the floor and fasten it every 15 cm with screws. Do not forget to leave a small gap between the sheets and near the wall. The leveling of the plywood sheets is controlled by level. Sheets that require pruning are sawn with a hacksaw or jigsaw.

Laying the substrate

The cat was scared… Substrate, we chose the cheapest polypropylene. Before laying again vacuum the floor.
We lay the substrate with a margin on the walls, so that we can cut off the excess, and glue it together with scotch tape. The substrate must lie in a single layer, butt joint.

Laying laminate

After finishing the preparation of the floor, proceed to laying it laminate. Prior to this, it is necessary to store the laminate for several days indoors (to adapt the material to the temperature and humidity of the air in the apartment).

Laying start from the corner of the room, preferably from the most prominent place. However, there is a small nuance: if the door opens into the room and no one plans to remove it, then the laminate will start to be laid from it, otherwise it will not be possible to lay the last row.
Begin laying door
It is best to place the wide joints of the laminate along the light from the window, so it will be less visible slots (over time they will increase).

Modern laminate mounted without glue, locking method. This type of flooring is called floating because it is not rigidly fixed to the floor, but lies loosely on the substrate. During the change of season, the coating slightly changes its size, therefore it is impossible to screw the laminate onto the floor firmly on the screws. Along the perimeter of the panel there are locks that connect, if you insert one of the panels at an angle, and then lower it.
To see how this works, watch the video tutorial:

The panel is laid in a corner and the next is joined from the short side. So we collect the first row. The last panel is likely to have to file. This can be done with a jigsaw or saw, but that the teeth are small, otherwise the laminated surface will be chipped.
First row ready
The main rule when laying laminate is to leave a gap of about 1 cm around walls, pipes, doors and other obstacles. You should not make a gap more than 2 cm, because the thickness of the plinth will not be able to block it later.

A wedge is needed to withstand the same gap near the wall. For convenience of installation in stores sell a special set for laying laminate. It includes wedges of the same thickness, mounting paw for the installation of the last row and wedge panels.

For additional sealing of seams, you can buy a special paste-sealant and coat the locks with it before joining. However, in wet areas it is better to put commercial linoleum. tile or porcelain tile.

The second row fits in the same way as the first, and then is inserted into the previous one. To simplify the task, we recommend laying the panels as close as possible to the lock, then just lift the entire row and snap it in place. This is done by simply pressing the row at an angle.
To connect the insert panel at an angle
Then we lower the panel so that the second row lies next to the first We join adjacent rows with our hands
As a result, the joint should not be visible
Some types of locks do not allow laminate to join the whole series to the previous one, but one by one. For example, Quick Step laminate has universal locks: they can be inserted horizontally or at an angle. At the same time, there are Click-locks that only horizontally hammer.

It is not necessary to immediately leave a gap between the first row and the wall. It will be more convenient to assemble 3-4 rows, and then move them to the wall, and you can put something heavy on top. This is much easier, especially if the wall is not very smooth.

Another important feature – the panels are laid in a checkerboard pattern. If the first row started with a whole laminate panel, then the second one needs to start with a half, and the third one again with a full panel. So connections of locks will be more dense, and the expense on scraps will become minimum.
Half the room is ready
Thus, in staggered order lay the remaining rows of the laminate. When we reach the heating pipe, cut a round hole with a jigsaw or a drill. Then the piece is simply laid and pressed with a baseboard or glued onto liquid nails.

When we reach the last row, you need to file each panel width, taking into account the gap. Installation occurs in the same way, we snap it by pressing firmly on the panel at an angle.
Floor is almost ready

Plinth installation

The plastic plinth with a cable channel consists of two parts. The first is fastening to the wall, and the second is a decorative attachment that snaps from above. There is also another type of fastening – metal brackets are fastened first, and then the plinth is put on them.

We drill holes for dowels approximately every 30 cm and fasten one part of the plinth. Fasten the main part, hide the wires, then put on a decorative nozzle. For a beautiful dock, we use special components for the plinth: adapters, external and internal corners, plugs.

We put a special stroke around the pipe to hide the gap (it costs about 50 rubles). In our case, the pipe was very close to the wall, so we had to cut the plinth and saw off the stroke, and then glue it onto liquid nails.

Buy the plinth and all the components together with the laminate. Otherwise, if there is a shortage of material, you will have to travel around a lot of stores before you can find the right color.

And the final touch – mount the door sill. It is needed to hide the height difference between the rooms. The rules for laying laminate require splitting different rooms with a gap so that the coatings are independent. However, in practice, if the same coverage is chosen for adjacent rooms, you can not use the bridge, but do everything without seams: it will be nicer, and cleaning will be easier. If then some defect appears, it is more convenient in fact to cut off the coating in the doorway.

The cost of repairing the floor

It’s time to count the costs. How much was spent on repairing the wooden floor in the panel house?

  1. Birch plywood 6 mm thick, 8 sheets – 2300 rubles.
  2. Laminate Kronostar Pear White class 31 – 7 boxes. Q1 m. cost in Leroy Merlin 235 rubles. Total 4112 rubles.
  3. The substrate under the laminate of polypropylene – 1 roll thickness of 2 mm, a length of 25 m – 320 rubles.
  4. Screws and dowels – about 600 rubles.
  5. Plastic plinth with a cable channel of 8 pieces of 2.5 m each – 150 rubles.
  6. Stroke around the pipe, connectors and corners for the plinth – 420 rubles.
  7. Porozhek – 160 rubles.

As a result, the amount is: 9112 rubles.

Cat clearly did not like the new slippery floor

  • Plywood is better to take thicker, 6 mm is still not enough, so you should not save on it. Next time we would have plywood of at least 12 mm. If the floor is too uneven, then you need to lay the plywood in 2 layers, with offset joints.
  • We advise you to choose not too thick or long screws, they will be difficult to twist.
  • You can not buy a soft backing thicker than 3 mm, it will be very springy when walking, and the floor under you will be pressed through. To find out more information, we recommend reading our article on the choice of the substrate.
  • If the laminate is laid on a concrete floor, then before laying the substrate, you need to lay a layer of polyethylene for waterproofing.
  • For productive work you need a good screwdriver with a powerful battery. So you will save a lot of time.

Having spent a small amount on repairing the old wooden floor, we got rid of the squeak, made it smooth and pleasant to walk. It took three days to prepare the floor for laminate flooring, and one day was spent on laying it alone.

Types of cork for finishing the floor, the pros and cons of cork covering, how to lay cork laminate on the floor with your own hands.

Ways to prepare a wooden floor for laying tile. Proper installation of tiles on a wooden base.

How to put the floor of the grooved boards with their own hands. The technology of laying wooden floor on logs, concrete and screed.

We have a wooden floor quite strong, but with many layers of paint. Is it worth it and under the 6mm plywood to put the substrate? Thank.

Hello!Thanks for the article, very detailed all painted. I would like to ask you for advice. We have 2 small dogs in the house, we put a laminate in the room, but a loud noise from claws emanates from it, we can especially hear it at night. The substrate used is cork, does not help. Tell me, what are the alternative coating options instead of laminate?

I would choose vinyl tile at your place:
No noise, durable and beautiful in appearance, easy to clean. You can choose collections under the laminate with a texture.
The second option is a laminate with a cork coating:
Due to this, it is not so cold and almost silent. The traffic jam will be nice to walk even barefoot.

Remove dogs from the apartment is the best option, or shod dogs in slippers.

The author, I bought the same laminate in lerua exactly 3 years ago? But! Attention! I put it on the LOGIA! On which, again, attention!?
It happens Snow, Rain, and even frosts from -15 to -40 in our latitudes are not uncommon. Is it still as good as new? At the same time, moisture naturally falls on him, both in summer and in winter, and it freezes on it and naturally turns into ice crusts in winter, and simply into ice, and he doesn’t care.?To be honest, I myself am surprised at why 6mm laminate, the cheapest and easiest that I originally laid for the purpose of a maximum of 1 year, but this option turned out to be so resistant to atmospheric phenomena.
The loggia is 1×5 meters, the order in which the work was done: put plastic film on the concrete; 0.5 cm, on the board lay the substrate, on the substrate the laminate, the laminate tried to lay very tightly without lye. Well, and the gap between the laminate and the walls 0.5cm.
Went 4th year, buduzuyu winter more than sure that he will survive. Good luck to everyone, do not be fooled by ads, think with your head. VUAL…

And why lay the substrate on the wooden floor?

Kettle article for dummies. Laminate for 150 rubles will disappoint in a couple of years. Screws need to take long and strong, and not pick them up under the screwdriver. You need to twist them with a good tool, at least with a perforator (with a drill mode). Even 9 mm plywood is not enough. For such a floor must be taken at least 12 mm. it is better to fasten plywood with a good tool, so that the caps are recessed.

1) A similar laminate floor has been in my bedroom for 3 years, until everything is ok. In this case, the last time laying was even without plywood, because floor condition allowed. As an economical option to repair the floor, this material is great. If I bought commercial linoleum at 500 rubles per square, 8500 rubles would be spent on a room, against 7300 rubles. even without plywood and screws, this is already more expensive. Although linoleum will be more durable, of course.
2) Naturally, small screws will not work. The article says how to choose their length. I took them almost the entire length of the lag + floorboard. 90% of the squeak disappeared after such a scroll.
3) In the first photo you can see that a bit from a screwdriver is worn on the perforator. Although, of course, it is much more convenient to do this with a powerful screwdriver – there will be no tearing of the head, the work will be quieter and faster.
4) Regarding the thickness of the plywood. Either take one thick, or do the laying in 2 layers.

Hello, I would like to say thank you in advance for the article, I have leveled the floor in this way, but my entire floor is at a slight angle, I would like to ask if you can lay laminate on such a floor.

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