Laminate on wooden floor

After leveling the floor and cleaning it from debris, a springy damping tape is laid to damp sounds along the walls. So that the seams of the substrate do not fall on the joints of the boards, sheets or roll substrate roll out across the floor across the direction of the laminate lamellas.

It fits only the smooth side up and is interconnected end to end, without overlap. To avoid shearing the substrate, all sheets are fastened together with building tape. If the damper tape is not used, you can put the edges of the substrate a little to the wall a couple of centimeters. In the future, the excess is cut off. In order not to crush the porous material while walking, it is not recommended to lay the entire substrate at once – it is better to lay it out as needed.

Laying laminate step by step

1. To protect the laminate from swelling during temperature drops, small spacers made of plywood or small bars 0.5-1 cm thick are placed between the lamellae and the wall.

  Laminate on wooden floor

It is not recommended to lay laminate against the walls.

2. In order for the joints between the lamellae not to be noticeable, they must be arranged so that the light passes along them (the narrow side to the window).

3. The first row is located spike against the wall.

4. Further laying is made only with offset seams (in a staggered manner), that is, the center of the board of the next row should fall at the joint of the previous lamellae. In order to get a similar offset, the first board of the second row is cut by half or (long boards) by 2/3.

5. Slats can have two types of fasteners. On each package there is an icon indicating the type of attachment and methods of its connection.

6. When attaching the type of click (the most common), the board to be docked bends slightly at an angle of 30 and with a small effort pressed against the second lamella until a characteristic click. To strengthen the connection, the joined boards are lined up with a rubber hammer. Boards with fastening type lock are simply hammered into the next with a small tap of the hammer until it clicks.

The procedure for laying laminate

Council In order not to damage the fragile slats, when trimming the boards with each other, you can use a wooden bar through which the boards are hammered.

7. The lamellas adjacent to the pipes are cut in half so that the cut falls on the center of the pipe. Further, holes are cut in the boards a couple of millimeters larger than the diameter of the pipe. Rubber seals are placed to seal the joint and quench sounds (metal and bimetallic pipes are very good sound conductors).

Installation of laminate at batteries

8. To get a neat joint, door jambs are slightly filed down the thickness of the lamella.

The jamb is filed at the bottom so that the lamella enters

9. The transition to another room can be arranged with an aluminum sponge, which is inserted between the laminate boards, or with a special wooden spike gusher.

Video: Laying laminate on wooden floor

Laying laminate on uneven wooden floor

In this article we will talk about the experience of laying laminate on wooden floors in a panel house. It will be about the budget repair, which everyone can afford.
That was how the floor looked like before repair…
The first problem faced by every resident of a panel house is the creaking of wooden floors. That is why this is happening: the floorboard was nailed to the logs with nails that had loosened over time, and the floor began to creak.

The next problem is a very uneven floor with large differences between the boards. To lay the laminate, such a floor must be leveled, and the maximum allowable height differences should not exceed 2 mm by 1.5 m.

To eliminate these problems, we decided to level the wooden floor using plywood. But if you just screw the plywood over the creaking boards, then, of course, it will not be better. Therefore, first you need to strengthen the floor with screws.

Preparatory stage

We dismantle the old plinth. If it is plastic, there will be no problems, but the wooden plinth needs to be torn off with a mount or a nail catcher. We pull out all the sticking nails, remove the large projections with a plane. Before plywood flooring, do not forget to wash and vacuum the floor well.
We are preparing a wooden floor for repair
Now it is important to determine at what height the wooden floor above the slab is raised; for this, 1-2 holes are drilled in the boards. Know the distance between the base and the boards need to determine the size of the screws for the floor. Usually it is 8-10 cm, but on the ground floor there are also all 25 cm.

After raising the floor level, the door may not open: the thickness of the laminate with the substrate is almost 1 cm + plywood thickness (at least 0.6 cm). If the door is old, then you can easily saw it with a hacksaw, just by removing it from the hinges. And for trimming the door with a laminated coating, it is imperative to place a thick plywood under the bottom, otherwise chipping will appear at the cut.

Calculation of materials

Tools for laying laminate Next, you need to calculate how many screws are needed. To do this, we look at the total amount of lag in the room (they can be found on the nails or seen in the crack near the wall). Then we count the number of boards in width and multiply the resulting amount by the amount of lag.
Each board is screwed with 1 screw to the lag, every 40-60 cm. For example, if there are 11 lags and 28 boards in a room, then 308 screws will be needed + 10-20% for the stock.

Plywood is better to fasten every 15 cm, if less – it will swell and hang out when walking. The length and width of the room is measured and divided by the amount of 15 cm, and then multiplied values. For example, our room is 3×5.6 m. We divide 3 meters by 0.15 = 20 pieces, we divide 5.6 meters by 0.15 = 38 pieces. Now multiply 20 by 38 and get 760 pieces, + 10-20% for the stock. For plywood, self-tapping screws for wood of 25-30 mm and thickness of 3-3.5 mm are suitable.

Now we consider how much laminate is needed. To do this, you need to find out the size of the room, and the calculation is already done in the store, because the laminate panels have different parameters. Our room is 17 sq. M. m. In one box laminate area of ​​about 2.6 square meters. m. We divide 17 by 2.6 = 6.53. We round it up in a big way, so we will need 7 boxes, and half of the box will be in stock, in case of a marriage.
This should be enough if you lay the laminate in the usual way: the cost of trimming is about 5%. If laying is diagonal, the stock should be at least 10%.

When buying laminate it is important that the delivery lot on all the boxes is the same. In boxes with different batches the color of the pattern may differ. Also, the pack must be intact, otherwise the locks may be damaged.

Now count the number of plywood. We chose plywood with dimensions of 1.43 x1.52 m, that is, the area of ​​1 sheet would be 2.17 square meters. m. We divide the area of ​​the room (17 sq. m.) by the area of ​​plywood and get 7.8 sheets. So, you need to buy 8 sheets of plywood. The plywood thickness must be at least 12 mm.

Strengthening boards with screws

So, all the materials purchased, proceed to strengthen the floor with screws. The site has an article about what to do with the creaking of the floor in the apartment, it partially describes this work.

Since the screws were difficult to enter into the tree, at first we drilled the holes about 70% of the length of the screw, and then we screwed the boards to the logs with screws.
We strengthen the floor in rows of lags
Of course, if you have a powerful screwdriver, you will be able to accomplish this much faster without additional drilling. In our case, the cheapest Chinese screwdriver, which quickly sat down, so all the work stretched out for several days.
The main thing is to screw the boards tightly to the lags so that they do not hang out when walking.
Since the doors will soon be changed, we file off the slopes for the installation of the plinth.
We file door slopes
During work, it turned out that from under the floor from the street side it was blowing too hard, so I had to seal the gap with foam. In this case, you need to moisten the surface before treatment with water, and also to spray the foam after application, because moisture is necessary for the polymerization process of the mounting foam.
From this gap strongly blew from the street So much better

Plywood leveling

To level the floor with plywood, put the sheet on the floor and fasten it every 15 cm with screws. Do not forget to leave a small gap between the sheets and near the wall. The leveling of the plywood sheets is controlled by level. Sheets that require pruning are sawn with a hacksaw or jigsaw.

Laying the substrate

The cat was scared… Substrate, we chose the cheapest polypropylene. Before laying again vacuum the floor.
We lay the substrate with a margin on the walls, so that we can cut off the excess, and glue it together with scotch tape. The substrate must lie in a single layer, butt joint.

Laying laminate

After finishing the preparation of the floor, proceed to laying it laminate. Prior to this, it is necessary to store the laminate for several days indoors (to adapt the material to the temperature and humidity of the air in the apartment).

Laying start from the corner of the room, preferably from the most prominent place. However, there is a small nuance: if the door opens into the room and no one plans to remove it, then the laminate will start to be laid from it, otherwise it will not be possible to lay the last row.
Begin laying door
It is best to place the wide joints of the laminate along the light from the window, so it will be less visible slots (over time they will increase).

Modern laminate mounted without glue, locking method. This type of flooring is called floating because it is not rigidly fixed to the floor, but lies loosely on the substrate. During the change of season, the coating slightly changes its size, therefore it is impossible to screw the laminate onto the floor firmly on the screws. Along the perimeter of the panel there are locks that connect, if you insert one of the panels at an angle, and then lower it.
To see how this works, watch the video tutorial:

The panel is laid in a corner and the next is joined from the short side. So we collect the first row. The last panel is likely to have to file. This can be done with a jigsaw or saw, but that the teeth are small, otherwise the laminated surface will be chipped.
First row ready
The main rule when laying laminate is to leave a gap of about 1 cm around walls, pipes, doors and other obstacles. You should not make a gap more than 2 cm, because the thickness of the plinth will not be able to block it later.

A wedge is needed to withstand the same gap near the wall. For convenience of installation in stores sell a special set for laying laminate. It includes wedges of the same thickness, mounting paw for the installation of the last row and wedge panels.

For additional sealing of seams, you can buy a special paste-sealant and coat the locks with it before joining. However, in wet areas it is better to put commercial linoleum. tile or porcelain tile.

The second row fits in the same way as the first, and then is inserted into the previous one. To simplify the task, we recommend laying the panels as close as possible to the lock, then just lift the entire row and snap it in place. This is done by simply pressing the row at an angle.
To connect the insert panel at an angle
Then we lower the panel so that the second row lies next to the first We join adjacent rows with our hands
As a result, the joint should not be visible
Some types of locks do not allow laminate to join the whole series to the previous one, but one by one. For example, Quick Step laminate has universal locks: they can be inserted horizontally or at an angle. At the same time, there are Click-locks that only horizontally hammer.

It is not necessary to immediately leave a gap between the first row and the wall. It will be more convenient to assemble 3-4 rows, and then move them to the wall, and you can put something heavy on top. This is much easier, especially if the wall is not very smooth.

Another important feature – the panels are laid in a checkerboard pattern. If the first row started with a whole laminate panel, then the second one needs to start with a half, and the third one again with a full panel. So connections of locks will be more dense, and the expense on scraps will become minimum.
Half the room is ready
Thus, in staggered order lay the remaining rows of the laminate. When we reach the heating pipe, cut a round hole with a jigsaw or a drill. Then the piece is simply laid and pressed with a baseboard or glued onto liquid nails.

When we reach the last row, you need to file each panel width, taking into account the gap. Installation occurs in the same way, we snap it by pressing firmly on the panel at an angle.
Floor is almost ready

Plinth installation

The plastic plinth with a cable channel consists of two parts. The first is fastening to the wall, and the second is a decorative attachment that snaps from above. There is also another type of fastening – metal brackets are fastened first, and then the plinth is put on them.

We drill holes for dowels approximately every 30 cm and fasten one part of the plinth. Fasten the main part, hide the wires, then put on a decorative nozzle. For a beautiful dock, we use special components for the plinth: adapters, external and internal corners, plugs.

We put a special stroke around the pipe to hide the gap (it costs about 50 rubles). In our case, the pipe was very close to the wall, so we had to cut the plinth and saw off the stroke, and then glue it onto liquid nails.

Buy the plinth and all the components together with the laminate. Otherwise, if there is a shortage of material, you will have to travel around a lot of stores before you can find the right color.

And the final touch – mount the door sill. It is needed to hide the height difference between the rooms. The rules for laying laminate require splitting different rooms with a gap so that the coatings are independent. However, in practice, if the same coverage is chosen for adjacent rooms, you can not use the bridge, but do everything without seams: it will be nicer, and cleaning will be easier. If then some defect appears, it is more convenient in fact to cut off the coating in the doorway.

The cost of repairing the floor

It’s time to count the costs. How much was spent on repairing the wooden floor in the panel house?

  1. Birch plywood 6 mm thick, 8 sheets – 2300 rubles.
  2. Laminate Kronostar Pear White class 31 – 7 boxes. Q1 m. cost in Leroy Merlin 235 rubles. Total 4112 rubles.
  3. The substrate under the laminate of polypropylene – 1 roll thickness of 2 mm, a length of 25 m – 320 rubles.
  4. Screws and dowels – about 600 rubles.
  5. Plastic plinth with a cable channel of 8 pieces of 2.5 m each – 150 rubles.
  6. Stroke around the pipe, connectors and corners for the plinth – 420 rubles.
  7. Porozhek – 160 rubles.

As a result, the amount is: 9112 rubles.

Cat clearly did not like the new slippery floor

  • Plywood is better to take thicker, 6 mm is still not enough, so you should not save on it. Next time we would have plywood of at least 12 mm. If the floor is too uneven, then you need to lay the plywood in 2 layers, with offset joints.
  • We advise you to choose not too thick or long screws, they will be difficult to twist.
  • You can not buy a soft backing thicker than 3 mm, it will be very springy when walking, and the floor under you will be pressed through. To find out more information, we recommend reading our article on the choice of the substrate.
  • If the laminate is laid on a concrete floor, then before laying the substrate, you need to lay a layer of polyethylene for waterproofing.
  • For productive work you need a good screwdriver with a powerful battery. So you will save a lot of time.

Having spent a small amount on repairing the old wooden floor, we got rid of the squeak, made it smooth and pleasant to walk. It took three days to prepare the floor for laminate flooring, and one day was spent on laying it alone.

Types of cork for finishing the floor, the pros and cons of cork covering, how to lay cork laminate on the floor with your own hands.

Ways to prepare a wooden floor for laying tile. Proper installation of tiles on a wooden base.

How to put the floor of the grooved boards with their own hands. The technology of laying wooden floor on logs, concrete and screed.

We have a wooden floor quite strong, but with many layers of paint. Is it worth it and under the 6mm plywood to put the substrate? Thank.

Hello! Thanks for the article, very detailed all painted. I would like to ask you for advice. We have 2 small dogs in the house, we put a laminate in the room, but a loud noise from claws emanates from it, we can especially hear it at night. The substrate used is cork, does not help. Tell me, what are the alternative coating options instead of laminate?

I would choose vinyl tile at your place:
No noise, durable and beautiful in appearance, easy to clean. You can choose collections under the laminate with a texture.
The second option is a laminate with a cork coating:
Due to this, it is not so cold and almost silent. The traffic jam will be nice to walk even barefoot.

Remove dogs from the apartment is the best option, or shod dogs in slippers.

The author, I bought the same laminate in lerua exactly 3 years ago? But! Attention! I put it on the LOGIA! On which, again, attention!?
It happens Snow, Rain, and even frosts from -15 to -40 in our latitudes are not uncommon. Is it still as good as new? At the same time, moisture naturally falls on him, both in summer and in winter, and it freezes on it and naturally turns into ice crusts in winter, and simply into ice, and he doesn’t care.? To be honest, I myself am surprised at why 6mm laminate, the cheapest and easiest that I originally laid for the purpose of a maximum of 1 year, but this option turned out to be so resistant to atmospheric phenomena.
The loggia is 1×5 meters, the order in which the work was done: put plastic film on the concrete, 15th blocks of wood (logs) were drilled onto the anchor with steps of approximately 30-40 cm from each other, the cheapest ungraded board with a gap between the boards 0.5 cm, on the board lay the substrate, on the substrate the laminate, the laminate tried to lay very tightly without lye. Well, and the gap between the laminate and the walls 0.5cm.
Went 4th year, buduzuyu winter more than sure that he will survive. Good luck to everyone, do not be fooled by ads, think with your head. VUAL…

And why lay the substrate on the wooden floor?

Kettle article for dummies. Laminate for 150 rubles will disappoint in a couple of years. Screws need to take long and strong, and not pick them up under the screwdriver. You need to twist them with a good tool, at least with a perforator (with a drill mode). Even 9 mm plywood is not enough. For such a floor must be taken at least 12 mm. it is better to fasten plywood with a good tool, so that the caps are recessed.

1) A similar laminate floor has been in my bedroom for 3 years, until everything is ok. In this case, the last time laying was even without plywood, because floor condition allowed. As an economical option to repair the floor, this material is great. If I bought commercial linoleum at 500 rubles per square, 8500 rubles would be spent on a room, against 7300 rubles. even without plywood and screws, this is already more expensive. Although linoleum will be more durable, of course.
2) Naturally, small screws will not work. The article says how to choose their length. I took them almost the entire length of the lag + floorboard. 90% of the squeak disappeared after such a scroll.
3) In the first photo you can see that a bit from a screwdriver is worn on the perforator. Although, of course, it is much more convenient to do this with a powerful screwdriver – there will be no tearing of the head, the work will be quieter and faster.
4) Regarding the thickness of the plywood. Either take one thick, or do the laying in 2 layers.

Hello, I would like to say thank you in advance for the article, I have leveled the floor in this way, but my entire floor is at a slight angle, I would like to ask if you can lay laminate on such a floor.

Laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor: preparing the foundation and working

In a rather extensive list of floor coverings there are not too many options compatible with the base of wood. True, observing special rules, you can lay almost everything. But the laminated floor, built on the floating principle, is ideal for home improvement, built on the construction of beams, log, boards. However, compatibility does not save independent masters from studying the nuances, according to which the laminate is laid on a wooden floor, and from the need to remember the specifics of ever-moving wood.

Can laminate flooring be laid on wooden floors?

Laminated panels are only interconnected; it is not necessary to fix them to static building structures, that is, to the floor or walls. The floating floor is loosely draft-based, allowing it to expand and contract. And she, in turn, does not interfere with the laminate to change the geometrical parameters after temperature drops and humidity fluctuations.

Constructive specifics of the laminated board provides an opportunity to do without adhesive compositions, hermetically sealing the butt joints. Although the glue technology exists, it is rarely used because of the laboriousness, the considerable consumption of glue and the inability to disassemble and reassemble the forever docked panels elsewhere. Bezkleevoy, the most popular method of fastening pleases both the wooden base, and the owners of the suburban property with excellent spontaneous aeration necessary for ventilation of the components of the wooden structure. The floor covered with a laminate which is excellently aired through seams, serves longer and does not decay.

Despite the artificial origin of the laminated coating, its behavior during operation is little different from the behavior of lumber. After all, its main element is made of MDF panels, chipboard, HDF and similar plates created by pressing wood processing products. The basis of the laminated floor is an important characteristic that determines the scope of use of the material. In theory, laminate flooring is not recommended to be placed in rooms where wet cleaning should be carried out regularly. Arrangement of bedrooms, children’s rooms, classrooms, living rooms. However, the coating made with the use of HDF, is considered to be moisture-resistant, and it can be laid on the floor in the hallways and even in kitchens.

Note. For flooring in rooms with a characteristic wet mode, a laminated floor of class 33 on a scale of durability is suitable, but its cost is rarely acceptable to owners of suburban housing.

Rules for the preparation of wooden base for laying

There are general requirements for the characteristics of the surface being built. According to the instructions of the SNiP with assigned to the normative collection number 3.04.01-87, for the laminate flooring:

  • a leveling surface is required, the relief differences of which do not exceed 2 mm within a 2 m 2 area;
  • Let’s say max slope 4 mm, evenly distributed by 2m in any direction.

It is not necessary to deviate from the instructions prescribed by technical regulations, as in case of non-compliance the sensitive locking system will be damaged. The grooves will be loosened, fragile thin ridges will break, the floor will not last long, it will have to be restarted.

You can, of course, partially change the elements, if only a few boards will be damaged, but the repair procedure will require a lot of effort. In such situations, the laminated panels are dismantled to the point of recovery, then they replace the broken elements and re-lay them in the reverse order. In case of multiple damage to laminated strips, partial replacement cannot be considered. At best, there will be a few boards left that can be used to decorate storage rooms, storage rooms, and compact covered verandas.

Before laying laminate panels on wooden subfloor, a base audit is mandatory. The scope of work is determined, as a result of which a fully-cased foundation will be ready to hoist the floor onto its reinforced “shoulders”.

Preparation actions depend on the degree of wear of the wooden structure:

  • Old wooden floorit will have to be disassembled to the support bar, because over the years of its long-term operation, sensitive natural organics could suffer from moisture overload or be infected with fungus. Through the floorboards to find out what the real state does not work out if the wooden floor is not the ceiling of the spacious basement. Those who have a high underground, lucky. It will provide an opportunity to investigate and repair the parts of the floor without tedious dismantling. The entire list of structural elements carefully examine. Doubtful sections of beams and lag cut, replace the new beam. The boards removed from the floor with a low subfloor, which inspire confidence in reliability, are turned over with an unwrapped seamy side up, we re-lay, fill the gaps with foam or repair compound. Old worn boards change without regrets. On the floorboards fixed in sweat we “will walk” the chisel machine. All constructive components of a long-arranged wooden floor must be thoroughly treated with antiseptic impregnation and fire retardant. Now it is easy to buy a mastic that performs both functions important for wood.
  • The new wooden floor does not need to be scrupulously diagnosed either, since it was built not so long ago, it is probably covered with compounds that protect against putrefactive bacteria and against fire. Therefore, preparation for laminate flooring on the newly constructed wooden floor does not take much time and labor effort from the contractor. We check the fasteners, change or upgrade the loosened fasteners, “drown” nails or screws a couple of mm in the floorboards. Zapenivaem or fill with wood glue, mixed in half with sawdust, cracks, if necessary, we cycle.
  • Gender with constructive impairment needs to be improved. It is very difficult to determine in advance the range of actions in such cases, because the situation may have a lot of various reasons. For example, if floorboards sag, the lag system will have to be strengthened by additional installation of a bar or replacing boards with thicker material. It is often more profitable and easier to lay on top of another row of boards of similar thickness that are laid “in the cross” to the previous layer. The last measure is permissible if the additional draft floor together with the laminate and the substrate does not take away too much from the ceiling height that is very necessary for limited space.

It is possible to level a rough basis from wood with plywood, GVLV, OSB sheets or by means of lining under the lags of pieces of roofing material, as well as curled paper in several layers. You can purchase a “designer” from Knauf with a full set of fasteners, supports and sheets of plywood. The method is chosen based on economic considerations and ease of implementation.

Technology laying laminated boards

We offer you to get acquainted with the thematic video:

It is impossible to cover a wooden draft basis with steam or waterproofing, it will interfere with ventilation. Under the insulation will accumulate harmful condensation for wood. But if the ardent desire to isolate nothing could break, it is better to use a diffusion membrane.

Lay before laying will need only the substrate, it is desirable to choose for this natural material. For the sake of preservation of the wooden structure it is worth forgetting about the height of the prices for the cork and the bitumen-cork or bitumen-rubber pressed versions created with its use. The thickness of this layer is chosen based on the same parameter of the laminated panel. Usually, strips of a 3mm substrate without overlaps are placed under the 8th laminate. No stationary fixings to the walls or to the base are needed, only the sizing with scotch tape with periodic points or solid lines.

Note.The choice of the direction of the layout of laminated dies is influenced not so much by the preferences of the owners, as the direction of the existing floorboards. Laminate panels should lie across the planks. Therefore, lay the strip of the substrate located under the coating, and lay it along.

Suppose that it has already been decided how we lay the laminate panels, to draw a simple plan by hand and choose a rational scheme. Information about the methods, rules and layouts abound on the site. Here are a couple of articles in the subject:

Dock boards can be gradually increasing the coverage of each piece separately or joining pre-assembled rows. The preferred method is usually indicated by the manufacturer of the material, and we investigate the piecewise algorithm.

Stacker actions during single-piece assembly of a laminate floor:

  • We will settle down in the starting corner, usually far from the doorway, taking with it 4 panels. In two of them (1st and 3rd), planned for laying against the wall, you must first cut the comb. We do not touch the groove, it is always directed to the stacker.
  • We first outline at what distance we displace the panels in the adjacent rows in order to avoid cross crossings and thereby increase the reliability of the joints. The recommended indentation for the displacement is not less than 30 cm. We will shorten the second board by this amount.
  • We specify the 1st and 3rd panels by the method specified by the manufacturer, depending on the type of the Click or Lock locking system, then we attach a piece of the 2nd board to them, then the 4th uncut plate.
  • We move the assembled floor segment to the designated place by installing spacer spacers approximately 1 cm thick between it and the adjacent walls. They will provide the gap required for the laminate to move during thermal expansion.
  • We increase the 5th board with the cut ridge first row, then extend the second row of the second strip.
  • By analogy, we follow up to the victorious completion of the laying of the first two rows, not forgetting to trim the comb unfolded against the wall. The boards completing both lanes are cut according to exactly measured distance. To snap the last in the rows of elements, we use a special mounting bracket.
  • Further we follow the studied course, only crests do not need to be trimmed anymore.
  • The panels of the last row are measured at the place of installation and cut off taking into account the temperature indent, we attach and snap it with the help of a clamp bracket.

Ways to bypass pipes, laying methods under the batteries and arranging doorways comply with the standard rules for laminate flooring.

An important point. In a large room temperature gap must be left not only along the walls. It is formed every 10 m, measured in width, and 8 m in length. The temperature joint is left in the opening along the axis of the closed door leaf. After laying the gap is closed with a plastic or aluminum profile.

Absolutely simple rules explaining how to economically lay a laminated floor with your own hands will help to perfectly decorate suburban and city property. And those who were not going to engage in the arrangement with their own hands, knowledge of the technology will help to correctly control the actions of not always diligent builders.

We decided to change the old flooring to a modern one. Chose for this laminate. Linoleum was removed and it turned out that wooden boards need to be modified in some places by a plane. And in one room there was a slightly sloping floor. We nevertheless decided to level it with the help of plywood, well the height of the ceiling allowed. Plywood attached, put the substrate and made laying laminate. This does not require much labor, even a newbie in this business can do everything correctly.

If the wooden floors in your house are too old and half destroyed, then I recommend replacing them. Still, I don’t want the boards to rot or buckle under the new laminate. If everything is normal, then you can start the preparatory work associated with grinding the surface of the boards. It is necessary to achieve the maximum flatness of the surface. If the slope of the boards is too large, then lay the laminate on a surface in any case is not necessary! We’ll have to disassemble all the boards, trim the lags and re-put them. In short, all this is very long and dreary. It will have to mess around a lot.

It all depends on the “state” of the wooden floor. Sometimes in practice I have come across the fact that you first need to rewrite the floors altogether, not to lay laminate on practically dust. In general, all this is quite simple and does not require special training, the main thing is that hands should grow out of the place and banal initial skills in handling tools are needed) Ideally, it seems to me, the floor should be leveled with plywood, having processed irregularities with a plane. In general, from experience I can say that two people over the weekend will cope easily with laying laminate, provided that the preliminary preparation has already been done and the old coating is removed.

Hello.It turns out that if I lay laminate across floorboards, it turns out along the main movement, i.e. the load will always be on the same dies. Is it correct?

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