Instructions for the assembly of a frame house with their own hands

  Instructions for the assembly of a frame house with their own hands

Installation of the roof of a frame house is a very important event. Rafters (pictured) of the roof can be done both before and after wall cladding. I did the first trim, but often do the rafters before the trim (especially the Finns, who on the roof very quickly put the farm from the factory)

I delegated this stage, I could not master it myself, very heavy boards for rafters, you have to drag it to the very top and do everything very precisely.

Frame-shield house with their own hands. Wall cladding

Before sheathe the walls, you need to check their slope vertically. It is better to sew up the walls completely, and then cut the openings in the casing, so tight.

Usually the walls are sheathed with OSB, but I do not like this stove, it does not let off steam. It is better then to use the MVDP Beltermo or inch (as in my photo).

How to build a frame house. Selection and installation of roofing

Now is the time to cover the roof. We select the material, then choose the right pie roof (depending on the material and the room – it is warm or not). Do not forget that it is often necessary to pre-design the ventilation in order to lay penetrations for the ventilation pipes before the roof closes with the same shingles (with metal, all this can be done later).

Wooden Canadian house with his own hands. We tighten walls with a hydro windproof membrane

Before installing windows, it is better to sew the walls outside with a waterproof windproof film. At the same time, we protect the OSB from moisture.

Additional information and film instructions:
Films and membranes in the skeleton
Crate in the frame house

Windows and doors in the frame house

Installation of windows is better to do before the facade materials and insulation. So that later there were no problems with the design of slopes and wet insulation. Doors and windows can be taken as with the installation (expensive, but give a guarantee), or install it yourself (budget, but hard). Large windows from 2 sq.m. Better to put on pins on the concrete, small can be put on the plate. Do not forget about the professional foam, plastic special spacers, as well as the use of films (for the formation of a closed loop vapor and waterproofing.

Facade of a frame house with your own hands

The sooner we make the facade, the faster our designs will be protected from moisture, and the film from the sun’s rays (from which it gradually loses its properties).

Almost all the facades in the correct wooden house are made with a ventilation gap, so do not forget to buy a dry crate (buy 100 × 25 and cut along, as well as 50 × 50 – in the case of an option with external insulation to the ventilation gap).

Frame house do it yourself. Communications

Before weatherization, it is better to conduct basic communications in the house: sewage and water supply. Electrics and heating can be postponed, as they are made either openly or hidden, but in crates (after the main contour of insulation and vapor barrier).

The bathrooms of our frame-shield house – a separate topic:

  • bathroom floors should be well waterproofed;
  • the ceiling must be vapor proof;
  • walls must be vapor proof.

Additional information and communication instructions:
Communications in the frame house

Warming a wooden house with their own hands.

Insulated carcasses are usually mineral wool, but ecowool is becoming more and more popular. I, too, will insulate the house with ecowool, it has many advantages: price, lack of gaps in insulation, insulation speed, environmental friendliness (compared to mineral wool), lack of structural elements of a clear step (you can take a step lag at least 300 mm, the same with racks, you can safely put them through 600 mm).

Additional information and instructions for weatherization:

Vapor barrier in the skeleton.

After insulation, but before finishing or additional insulation inside, tighten all walls with an airtight, closed loop vapor barrier. Best of all, 200 micron thick plastic film and special butyl rubber tape are suitable for this.

Additional information and vapor barrier instructions:
Vapor barrier in the frame house

DIY frame: step by step instructions. Electrics and heating

Now is the time to connect electricity from the pole to your electrical panel (it is better to design and assemble it in advance, and before that get permission to connect a specific number of KWat).

After the house is insulated, but before the finishing stage – it’s time to also do heating. We start with the choice of heating fuel (wood, gas, electrics, gasoline), boiler, and then the material for heating pipes. Recently, increasingly in a frame house choose warm floors instead of radiators.

The Canadian wooden house is very warm, it needs to be well insulated once, and then you can even heat it with electricity. Of course, spending on electric heating will be 3 times more expensive than gas, but still less than what you pay in the apartment.

Interior finish: step by step instructions

The walls and the ceiling in a frame house are usually trimmed with gypsum plasterboard (plasterboard), and then it is painted or wallpaper glued onto it. GKL is good because it burns badly. In Canada, in general, without a GK, carcasters are forbidden to build according to fire safety requirements. And on our ceiling more and more often they are beating lining or imitation of a bar and painting (I like the particularly white color in this place).

After finishing the walls and the ceiling, you can pour the concrete screed, tile the floor or laminate, and then put interior doors. Particularly good Finnish interior doors, many praise them, but the price they are now exorbitant.

Congratulations! Connect plumbing fixtures, arrange furniture and can move in.

Here is an instruction for the construction of a Canadian or Finnish frame house. How do you?

Frame house do it yourself: photos of the stages of construction

Prefabricated houses are attractive because with the ready foundation you can put the house very quickly. For example, the construction of a frame house with your own hands, by two people, is possible in a month without haste. And this is if inexperienced workers are involved with the construction, who only know how to hold a hammer in their hands. All because the assembly takes place step by step: regular repetition of simple actions. It is only important to know how to properly assemble each node. Having the instruction, understanding the principle of construction, the frame house can independently assemble any.

No less attractive frame construction that can get by with minimal cost. How much money is needed specifically for construction depends on the size of the house, on the materials used (type and type of wood, finishing materials). But in any case, it is one of the cheapest methods. (About home building technologies read here)

Timber frame houses are not the only ones. There are regions in which wood is a luxury. They put metal frames. Given that metal is not cheap today, it still turns out to be relatively inexpensive.

An approximate estimate of the frame house 12 * 9 meters, prices are for 2013. You can estimate the current cost of components in your area.

One more thing. Many are interested in whether it is possible to leave an unfinished frame house, and if so at what stages. The answer is that it is possible, and the first stage is known to everyone: the finished foundation is left to spend the winter. Still possible wintering options in the following form:

  • foundation + frame + roof (without floor);
  • foundation + frame + roof + outer siding OSB + windscreen;
  • foundation + frame + roof + exterior lining of OSB + windscreen + mounted and heated floor and ceiling + partitions.

With windows and doors to leave for the winter without supervision is dangerous. In other cases, the postponement of the completion of construction is even not bad: the wood will dry out. In winter, as a rule, low humidity and drying is active. At the same time reveal all the shoals in the already mounted part.

In general, it must be said that it lives well in a frame house in which all the nodes are made correctly. This technology does not forgive mistakes. Even minor. If you want to familiarize yourself with the building codes, find joint venture 31-105-2002, which is called “Design and construction of energy-efficient single-family houses with wooden frames”. There are all descriptions and requirements.

Step by step construction instructions with photos

There are several different technologies for frame housing construction, but the classic method of construction is Canadian. It is also called the platform method, because first the floor of the frame house is assembled, and then the skeleton of the walls is assembled on it, like on a platform. Let us tell you how to build a house using this method. With the rest it will be easy to understand: only the sequence of actions differs.

Step 1: The Foundation of the frame house

The choice of the foundation is a separate complex and voluminous topic. The geological picture of the site, the height of the groundwater, the weight of the building and the seasonality of living in it, the region in which the construction takes place, snow and wind loads are taken into account. But in general, under the carcasses do most often pile, pile-grillage or strip foundations.

In our country, the palm in frame house-building with their own hands belongs to the pile-rostrum foundation. It is quickly built, requires small material investments, correctly calculated and built, it is reliable. Combining the advantages of both pile and belt, it evenly transfers the load to all supports.

More reliable in the construction of pile or pile-grillage foundations are piles TISE. Due to the extended heel, they have a greater bearing capacity and better resist heaving forces.

The device of the pile-grillage foundation with TISE piles

Drilling wells under the piles can be hand-drilled or motorized. As an opabulka they use rolled roofing material rolled into pipes of the required diameter (at least three layers should be screwed), fixed with scotch tape. Other options are asbestos cement or PVC pipes of suitable diameter. Three or four bars of reinforcement, interconnected in the form of a triangle or a square, are installed inside the piles. The reinforcement rods are cut so that at least 0.7-0.8 meters protrude above the pile surface. All is poured with concrete of a grade not lower than M25 (read about the grades of concrete here).

After casting the piles, the formwork for the tape (grillage) is installed, the fittings are laid and knitted into it. Longitudinal rods are connected with curved reinforcement releases from piles. At this stage, holes are left in the tape for supplying communications and ventilation (insert pieces of plastic pipes across the tape).

The strapping beam will be attached to the foundation tape later. For its installation in the tape fastened studs. They are installed in increments of 1-2 meters. From each corner to both sides retreat by 30 cm. Here studs are required, the rest, depending on the size of the house, but not less than 2 meters. Consider, what exactly hairpins connect a framework of the house with the base. Therefore it is better to deliver more often. And yet: no matter how short the wall, the studs must be at least two.

When everything is ready, concrete is poured.

Flooded grillage. The foundation for a frame house with your own hands is ready

After pouring concrete, so that it does not dry, but gain strength, it is better to cover it with polyethylene (see photo). If the temperature after pouring the foundation is kept within + 20 ° C, after about 3-5 days you can continue construction. During this time, under such conditions, concrete will pick up more than 50% of its strength. You can work with him freely. With a decrease in temperature, the period increases significantly. So at + 17 ° C you need to wait about 10 days.

Step 2: Bottom Rail and Floor

To prevent the wood of the frame from drawing moisture from concrete, a cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The most reliable is to make bitumen mastic. And better – in two layers. You can also use roll waterproofing. The roofing material is cheaper, but it eventually breaks. More reliable waterproofing or other similar modern material.

You can miss the grillage once with mastic, and on top roll out waterproofing. Another option for shut-off waterproofing under the frame house – two layers of waterproofing, smeared with mastic: the closer the groundwater is, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.

The first layer is liquid waterproofing. Until it is dry, you can glue a layer of roll on it.

Then stacked – board size 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and flame retardant compounds. The edge of the prone is aligned on the outer edge of the foundation. Holes are drilled in the required places for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is laid so as to block the joint of the first row. It turns out the lock.

The second board is stacked so that the joints overlap

In general, it is possible to lay one beam 100-150 cm, but its price is much higher than two boards, which together give the same thickness, and correctly fastened two boards have a greater bearing capacity, although it takes more time to lay them. So that they work as a single timber, they are knocked down with nails in increments of 20 cm in a checkerboard pattern.

We put the strapping and logs

Next to the rail board is attached strapping. Its size is also 150-50 mm, but it is placed on the edge. It is leveled at the outer edge of the foundation, and is nailed with long nails (9 cm) to the sunbath every 40 cm.

Installation of the harness: according to the instructions, the assembly of the frame house continues with the installation of the harness to which. will lag the floor

The next stage is the installation and installation of the lag. These are the same boards 150 * 50 mm, put on the edge. They are attached with two oblique nails (9 cm) in the butt to the trimming board, two nails on the right and left to the bedside. So each lag on both sides.

Installation example floor lag

The photo shows that the first lag is set close to the second – this is how the load on the foundation is transmitted better. It is installed on the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the length of the span and the section of the sawmill used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.

Lay and fixed floor logs

If the lags are long and there is a cross beam, as in the photo above, the lags do not “leave” over the cross beam jumpers are packed. They are equal in length to the installation step lag minus twice the thickness of the board: if the step is lag 55 cm, the thickness of the board is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.

Insulation and flooring

After the base under the flooring is installed, it is time for floor insulation. It can be done in different ways, with different materials. We show the economy option – with expanded polystyrene plates with a density of 15 kg / m3 (more can be, less – no). Of course, it is not environmentally friendly, but the only one is not afraid of moisture and can be mounted without a subfloor. The calculated insulation thickness is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one is 10 cm, the second is 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (they are shifted).

For a start, a cranial bar of 50 * 50 mm is packed on the bottom edge of the log. It will hold the foam.

At the bottom there is a frame from a cranial bar that will prevent polystyrene foam from falling out.

Polyfoam is cut by a usual hacksaw. The canvas can be taken on a tree – it cuts faster, but it turns out a ragged edge or on metal – it goes slower, but the edge is smoother. The cut plates are laid in two layers, the seams overlap. Then, around the perimeter, they are glued with sealant – to ensure waterproofing.

Next, lay the rough floor of the boards, align it and lay plywood on top (better FSF 5-6 mm). In order not to twist the rough flooring of the boards, lay the boards interspersed with the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross-section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, it is necessary for the arc to look up and then down (see photo).

How to properly lay the flooring of the boards

You can do without the flooring of the boards. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your area and choose.

In any case, the sheets should fit into the run – the seams should not be the same (as in the brickwork). Do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between the sheets of plywood to compensate for changes in size with changes in humidity.

Completed the second stage of building a frame house: flooring

Plywood is mounted on screws 35 mm long (better white – less waste) along the perimeter with a pitch of 12 cm, inside in a checkerboard pattern with a pitch of 40 cm.

Step 3: Frame Walls

There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part depends on the size) on the floor, then it rises, is exposed and fixed. Sometimes with this method, OSB, GVL, plywood are fastened directly to the floor on the outside of the frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called a frame-shield or “platform”. According to this principle, the factories mainly work: they build ready-made boards according to the project in the workshop, bring them to the site and only install them there. But the frame-shield housing construction is possible with your own hands.

One of the options for assembling a frame wall, the names of the elements

The second way: everything is going gradually, in place. The bar of the lower trim is hammered, the corner posts are set, then intermediate, the upper trim, etc. This is the technology called “frame housing construction” or “ballun”.

Assembling the frame of the walls with their own hands can be done gradually (technology ball) or blocks-shields (technology platform)

Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether there is an opportunity, at least periodically, to attract assistants. It is faster and more convenient to work on the floor than to jump up / down the ladder countless times. But if the section is large, it will be difficult to lift it even together. Exit – or call assistants, or break the wall frame into small segments.

Installation step and cross-section of racks

Corner posts should be 150 * 150 mm or 100 * 100 mm depending on the load and the required width of insulation. For a single-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story house – at least 150 mm. Intermediate racks in depth are the same as the corner, and their thickness – not less than 50 mm.

The step of installation of racks is chosen taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected on the basis of the insulation width. If you insulate with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The clearance between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste; there will be no gaps and cracks through which it will be warm too. The density of the installation of insulation in the cage – the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold. Therefore, the selection of insulation and its installation must be treated with full attention.

The option of gradual assembly of the frame of the house: the corner posts are set and fixed, the top trim is immediately mounted on them, then with the selected step vertical stands

Fastening racks is possible in several ways: wooden pins, with a hem or on the corners. The hem into the bottom trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. Corners are mounted on both sides. The fastening of the dowels is an old technology, but difficult to perform: they make long dowels, a hole is drilled through a stand and a bar of the bottom trim, a wooden thorn is driven into it, the surplus of which is cut off. It works well if the wood used is dry. If not, shrinking and loss of attachment rigidity are possible. Installation on reinforced corners is much easier.

According to Canadian technology, beams, to which windows and doors are attached, are made double. There is more load here, hence the support should be more powerful.

Reinforced racks near windows and doors are a must. Only in this way a frame house built with your own hands will be reliable.

Trims or bracing

If the outer plating is planned from high-strength plate material – OSB, GVL, GVK, plywood – mowing put temporary and inside the room. They are needed to align and maintain the geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is enough to create the required rigidity.

If sheathing is planned to be made up from lining, etc. installation of permanent braids is required. And the best option is not those who put on several racks, but four small pieces each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).

Such braces will give sufficient rigidity to the walls of the frame house.

Pay attention to the photo above the national team stand: two boards are knocked together with nails all over in a checkerboard pattern. These racks have an even greater carrying capacity than solid ones, cost less. This is a real way to reduce construction costs without losing quality. But time for construction increases: it is necessary to hammer nails a lot.

Corners of the frame house

Most questions arise when building corners. If you put a timber in the corner, then there seems to be no difficulty, except for the fact that the angle turns cold. In regions with a short and mild winter, this is not a problem, but already in central Russia requires some kind of solution.

Even with this option, the angle will be cooler

There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in the diagrams, so clearer.

When building a single-storey frame house, you can do so

With a residential second floor, the corners are made in one of these ways.

After assembling the frame, it is usually outside sheathed with OSB, plywood or other similar material.

Step 4: Overlap

Overlapping beams are based on the top trim bar. There are several ways to mount:

  • on supporting steel brackets;
  • on the corners;
  • with sidebar;

Cutting – cutting depth should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the upper trim beam. From above it is hammered with two nails, which should enter the strapping not less than 10 cm. Corners – the usual method. You can use enhanced, but not necessarily Perforated staples – the shape may be different Ceiling Beam Mounting with Metal Brackets

The dimensions of the beams, the pitch of their installation depends on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or attic. the section is taken more, the step is taken less: so that the floor does not sag. If on top only the roof and the attic are supposed to be uninhabited – these are completely different calculations and sizes.

In this one-storeyed frame house, the floor beams are at the same time a support for the rafters. Because they are released at 30 cm for the perimeter of the walls

If the second floor is completed, the overlap is sheathed with a rough floor of the second floor. So working on the creation of the second floor of a frame house will be easier. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first. Is it only the fact that all the lumber has to be dragged to the second floor.

Step 5: The rafter system and roofing material

When developing a house project on frame technology, the most popular are the gable or mansard roof. Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only restriction applies to the weight of the roofing: it must be lightweight material from which wooden beams and ceilings can withstand the load.

This is what the frame looks like before the trim. If the walls are not sheathed, slight fluctuations are felt when working on the truss system. The outer skin makes the frame much tougher. A gable roof with a raised puff was chosen. For the convenience of fixing truss legs along the edge of the floor joists, a bar of 50 * 50 mm was nailed. In the rafters under it was made gash. At installation, they at first simply rested in a bar, then fastened For fixing the rafters in a predetermined position before filling the crate, temporary jibs were used.

Step 6: Warming

It is possible to warm the frame house with any of the materials available on the market with the corresponding characteristics. They are all imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.

Basalt wool is the most popular insulation for frame walls. It comes in the form of rolls or mats of different densities. It is more convenient to install mats in the walls: they are denser and keep themselves well due to arching force. To do this, as mentioned above, their size should be 2-3 cm longer than the distance between the legs of the frame. Mats, of course, are additionally fixed with special fasteners, but it is more convenient to work than with a soft roll.

The most common cake warming frame wall

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics, good sound insulation. But there is also a solid drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected from all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from steam penetration. Therefore, from the side of the room, it is covered with a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which prevents the pairs from penetrating inside.

From the side of the street, thermal insulation made of mineral wool is closed by another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: a hydro-wind-protective vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown, from the side of the street it does not allow moisture in the liquid and gaseous state, and the pair can leave the insulation: vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only finishing work remains. Actually, all construction is over.

It looks like a basalt mat installed between the racks

Now you know how to build a frame house. Detailing some of the processes is far from complete, but you have a general assembly sequence. Perhaps you will be helped by another video from a professional carpenter who has been engaged in the construction of frame houses for decades (see below).

Video installation instructions for frame houses

These are three videos of a great carpenter, Larry Khon. Each of them lasting more than an hour. The technology of building a frame house on the finished foundation is painted in great detail.

According to this instruction, self-erection is possible without questions: all stages of building a frame house and small things are commented and explained, to the point of what kind of nails, how long, how many pieces with which step, to hammer in each node. Demonstrates the main problems that may arise and methods for correcting them. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, do not take the time – watch the movie. You will become much clearer.

The first part is the bottom trim and the floor.

The second part of the video is the device and assembly of frame walls.

The third part is the construction of the roof of a frame house.

If you still doubt whether it is worth building a frame house, this is probably because you heard that this is a bad technology, that it does not work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that in Canadian and American frame houses they put out of dry forest, humidity. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood from the sawmill brings almost natural moisture, which is up to 60%. Because the house leads and turns, they become cold.

But if you are going to build a house with your own hands, what will prevent you from using dry wood? Chamber drying it is expensive, the difference per cubic is very decent – almost twice. But by folding the wood on the plot into ventilated piles, it can be dried up to the same 20-22% per year. Saturate or not before drying bioprotection you decide for yourself. Dry wood does not rot and is not damaged by fungi, but from insects it is desirable to saturate it with bioprotection.

An example of such an opinion in the video. Explaining why the technology is bad…

Step-by-step construction instructions for a frame house

Until recently, mainly log houses, brick or concrete, were erected in our country, but now it is time for new technologies, and frame construction has appeared in this segment. It has not yet been mastered at full capacity, so I would like to consider in detail how the construction of the frame house is going on with their own hands with step by step instructions contained in the article. The instruction itself consists of 4 steps:

  • foundation installation;
  • frame assembly;
  • walling and thermal insulation work;
  • roofing.

The main advantage of this design lies in the rapid pace of construction without the involvement of special lifting mechanisms. Low-cost frame buildings are put into operation in one season, but such speed in no way impairs comfort and heat preservation, and here such parameters are no worse than those of wooden or stone houses. Now we offer to disassemble all stages of construction separately.

Choosing a place on the site

The use of wooden material suggests the presence of a site without excessive moisture. The site must be well ventilated and dry enough so that the wood does not rot. Drawings from the project documentation must be compiled with reference to the landscape, because only such scruples can guarantee durable operation of the dwelling without problems and major repairs.

It is possible to make a qualitative foundation only after conducting a geological analysis of the soil, while the house is being built according to the calculation of operational loads.

We make a project

The developer must be guided by the project created by experts in this field. Compiled documentation must also be approved by authorized officials of various services, where changes and / or additions may be made. At the initial stage, the step-by-step instruction allows independent sketching, but then you need to select a suitable standard project or make an individual one taking into account personal preferences and wishes, but in that and in the other case it is necessary to mark all communications and add engineering systems to the plan.

An example of a draft typical project

We draw your attention to the fact that typical projects traditionally cost less, and individual projects allow you to realize your own ideas.

Engineering systems

Construction of a frame house, like any residential building, provides for the introduction of all engineering networks into the project. According to the instructions, communications are laid in a certain sequence, and you need to start from the foundation. All technological holes for communication systems need to be made at the time of pouring, so that after solidification of the base it is not necessary to engage in complex drilling.

The electrical system consists of a switchboard, electrical wiring, sockets and grounding. The distance between the points under the sockets should be no more than 4 m. Sockets with lids are installed near the water sources. The ventilation system includes air ducts with openings. Should I remind you that the correct access to and use of taps, switches, as well as the functioning of drains and sewage drainage depends on the correct wiring of pipes and wires?

Foundation installation

The technology of construction of a frame house provides for the installation of shallow strip foundations. columnar or block concrete foundation. Strength basics increase with rebar and monolithic strapping. For the frame construction of a fairly small base, which can easily withstand small loads. The most effective type of foundation for a frame house – screw piles. This foundation does not require a large amount of materials, which reduces the cost of construction estimates.

Variants of the device grillage on screw piles

Under the foundation plate, it is necessary to dig a trench or drill wells for piles, then pour a sand pad. Before you start pouring concrete, you need to make a formwork and install reinforcement rods. Ribbon foundation in the process of pouring necessarily ram. The step-by-step instruction states that for the construction of a frame house, vertical studs half a meter long are installed in the liquid concrete of the foundation every 2 m. The surface of the grillage must be leveled with the same cement mortar.

Lower piping

Seven days after the work on pouring concrete, the bottom trim of wooden bars with a section of 15×15 cm is laid over the entire surface of the base. The wood must be pre-treated with antiseptic agents, and two layers of roofing felt, which perform the role of waterproofing, are laid at the bottom. Timber can be fixed with anchor bolts or foundation studs. If bolts are used, then under them you need to drill technological holes up to 10 cm in depth. The length and in the corners of the connection is arranged and fixed with nails.

Bottom trim house

When all wooden bars are laid and connected with each other and with the foundation, grooves are formed in them and floor logs are placed (50×150 mm board). The upper part of the lag is aligned horizontally, and the bars are nailed to the bottom, which will serve as the basis for the installation of the subfloor, to which the membrane vapor barrier material is stitched. In between the lags, you need to press the heater (mineral wool or foam). A trim board (40×15 mm) is laid on top.

Floor layout

Now you can go through the following stages, which will be discussed further.

Create a frame

Mounting the frame house with their own hands, the developers from the very name of the technology understand that the main element of such a structure is the frame, and it is on it that the entire structure is retained. The skeleton consists of vertical posts fixed with bolts and horizontal strapping. As before, here the entire construction process is carried out in stages. The material used is wood or metal profile. for the installation of which will require a welding machine and certain skills. If you decide to create a frame of wood, it is recommended to choose hardwoods, such as larch or the most popular oak. The height of the rack should correspond to the same parameter of the room. Connect the rack thorn-groove on the principle of lower strapping. After fitting, there should be no gaps.

Wall frame elements

Depending on what kind of load will affect the load-bearing supports, plan the distance between the uprights and their caliber, and the dimensions of the cladding material are already selected for them. Typically, the cross-section of the racks take 150×50 mm, in the openings put a double beam 150x50mm. The most popular step racks – 600 mm (allows you to install insulation “in the tension” for dense filling the wall). To connect the uprights with the lower strapping, temporary braces are used, which is why the structure acquires the necessary rigidity.

Diagram of the device corners frame

Now the step-by-step instruction led us to the installation of the top trim, which is carried out after the installation of the vertical beam. Fixing occurs with the help of the same grooves, which fastened the lower timber. The upper fastening to the posts is carried out by two nails, which should enter the material not less than 10 cm. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by permanent mowing, installed instead of the dismantled temporary. Read more about this in the article “Upper and lower trim of a frame house.” We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the device of the most important components of the frame house.

We install and insulate walls

The outer walls of the house are sheathed with a siding under a log, wooden lining, plastic siding, as the owner of the house wishes. Warming is best done using mineral wool. It will reliably and inexpensively solve the problem of home insulation, which makes frame construction even more profitable and in demand. If you plan to live here all year round, then select insulation with a thickness of 15 cm or more. For greater efficiency, tackle the counter lattice from a 50×50 mm (8) bar and put insulation (7) with the “second layer” on top of the racks so that you can avoid possible cold bridges and make the house truly energy efficient. Read more about the pie wall device. and also about the general warming of the frame house.

Scheme of warming of a frame wall

The material is pressed into all the gaps between the beams to remove voids. To protect the wood from moisture, a waterproofing film will help, which is mounted on top of the insulation on the racks, and only then the lath casing for ventfacade, which will be hidden under the external facing, is packed. An OSB or gypsum fiber board is suitable for wall cladding from the inside.

Building a ceiling

The ceiling is attached to the ceiling beams, which, in turn, are fixed with grooves or steel brackets on the top trim bar. Where interroom partitions are installed, it is necessary to install support bars in the place of which a wooden ceiling shield is nailed.

Warming attic flooring scheme

On top of the shield you need to put a vapor barrier membrane with an obligatory overlap on the beams, with which the mineral wool, foam plastic, etc., are laid level with. The insulation is closed by vapor barrier, and boards are laid over it. Read more about weatherization attic.

So in stages we got to the installation of the roof. The roof weighs a lot, so it must rely on the finished walls without finishing. Before starting work, determine the degree of slope, the number of ramps, the type of roof cladding, the design of the truss system.

The dependence of the slope of the roof of the material used

A roof with a complex shape looks attractive, but it is difficult to implement, therefore, not cheap. Most often there are two-fold constructions. allowing to equip the attic or attic space. Here it is necessary to install only one ridge, endy and completely absent, which eliminates the accumulation of precipitation and leakage. So that the snow did not stay on the roof, plan its slope more than 28º but not more than 50º, otherwise the wind load will increase.

The cross section of the rafters is determined according to the placement of insulation material between them, an average of 100-150 mm. It is best to take a board, caliber 150x50mm and 6 m long. Two boards need to be knocked down in the shape of an L, and then they are lifted up and the angle is determined, ensuring that the overhangs extend beyond the wall level by 30-50 cm. Now the boards can be assembled with a bolt, and we get a kind of rafters.

The design of the truss system gable roof

Where there will be supports, triangular notches are provided for a third of the height. The upper frame binding acts here as a mauerlat. According to the made sample, they create rafters on the entire roof, not forgetting about a step of 700 – 800 mm. Rafters on a skate set to the gable, and already on them continue to install the remaining elements. Depends on what decorative lining will be.

Roofing material

Step-by-step instruction ends at the stage of installing the roof cladding. You can choose a soft tile, corrugated board or metal tile. It is easy to work with all these materials, they are affordable and have a decent look. After facing, it will only be necessary to install drainpipes and a drainage system, which will be responsible for the removal of precipitation outside the site.

But for you a unique film – a detailed step-by-step instruction on the construction of a frame house from scratch. Do not thank!)

Now you know how to build a frame house with your own hands so that the structure is strong and warm. If you do not ignore the rules of construction and assembly technology, you will become the happy owner of your own home, which you can only dream of.

Sources:,, http: // / construction / poshagovaya-instrukciya-stroitelstva-karkasnogo-doma.html

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