In place of the doorway on both sides you need to install reinforced racks. The supports are made of two profiles, nested into each other so that they form a solid pipe and not a single face remains open. The racks of the future box are also fixed by a prosekatel to the guides in pre-calculated places.
At this stage, you should consider how the communications will be laid in the wall. Wiring is prohibited along the rack or rail, it is carried out in the holes made in the vertical racks on the same level.
If a stretch ceiling will be installed in the room, then for its mounting in the partition, installation of an additional mounting base of OSB (plywood) boards is required.
Corner joints in the frame are created as follows.
It is possible to strengthen the doorway by installing wooden bars of suitable thickness inside the metal pillars. In this opening and the door will hold more reliably, and the canvas itself can be installed heavier. In addition, there is a guarantee that the lock, even with considerable effort, will firmly hold inside the frame.
In the places where it is planned to hang heavy furniture or plumbing, after installing the first layer of gypsum plasterboard inside the metal frame, fasten wooden bars to the posts in the right place. Additionally, in two or three places they are fixed to the drywall on each side of the wall. Such a support is able to withstand the load that a water heater creates in a volume of 50-60 liters.
Above the door or window opening is the installation of a horizontal crossbar of metal profiles. The crossbar is reinforced by vertical posts, which are fixed to the guide rails on the ceiling and to the crossbar.
When the frame is ready, you can proceed to the installation of sheets of drywall. To do this, you must first accurately calculate the required amount of material and cut the sheets in width, if necessary. Cutting HL is carried out with a sharp construction knife. First, a deep cut is made along the marked line, completely cutting through the cardboard and, in part, plaster. Then, the notched piece is cracked and bent. Now, from the opposite side of the sheet, it remains only to cut the second layer of cardboard along the bend.
Sheets are attached to the frame on screws 2.5 cm long with a pitch of no more than 25 cm. The minimum distance from the sheet edge is 1.5 cm, on the adjacent sheets there should be at least 1 cm vertical distance between the screw installation points. the floor should be 10 mm, and to the ceiling – 5 mm.
It is impossible to fix the gypsum board against the ceiling or floor, it is necessary to leave free space, which is then filled with sealant. For quick tightening of screws, a screwdriver is used. The head of each mount is slightly recessed into the plasterboard, so that then this place can be puttied.
At the locations of future outlets and switches in drywall, holes are drilled using a drill with a nozzle-cutter. Wires are laid inside the frame and lead out through the holes to the outside.
After plating the walls of the gypsum board on the one hand, the next step in the frame are the noise insulation plates.
The second side of the partition is closed with drywall so that the joints of the sheets do not coincide with the joints on the opposite side. In the doorway, the installation of sheets takes place on the same principle as on the wall plane. After screwing the gypsum board to the pillars of the door frame, holes are made in it in 2-3 cm steps along the contour of the opening. The sheet is completely cut through from above, and vertically only on one side of the wall. When the cardboard is cut from one side, the sheet is bent inside the opening, after which you can cut the cardboard from the second side.
Now it remains only to sew up the second part of the wall with drywall according to the same principle. The last sheets are mounted inside the doorway box. Upon completion of the stage of work with GCR, it must be treated with a primer and putty. Dry putty mixture is diluted with water in the proportions indicated in the instructions on the package, and then stirred until a uniform creamy state.
With the help of a spatula, the composition is applied to all joints and to the places where the screws were tightened. At the joints, it is desirable to additionally strengthen the connection with reinforcing tape for fiberglass drywall joints. It sinks into the first wet layer of putty and dries with it. Then, the wall is puttied on top of it one more time and, after the second layer has dried, the surface to be plastered is polished with a hand skinner. It is important not to damage the plasterboard, you only need to level the putty.
At this step, the process of working with a partition can be considered completed. Now this is a full-fledged wall and further work with it is carried out exactly the same as with any other walls in the room. It is important to remember in which places additional fastening bases were created under sheets of drywall, on which it is planned to hang heavy pieces of furniture or plumbing.
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We build interior partitions with their own hands
Published: 21.04.2012 Category: Construction
Do-it-yourself room dividers
There are many designs of interior partitions, they can be used regardless of the materials of which the house is built. It is important to make the partitions technologically correct and to ensure their compliance with the requirements that are necessary for certain rooms.
Among the vertical structures inside the house bearing walls and partitions are distinguished. On the first floor and overlap roof structures, they themselves should be based on the foundation, and on the second floor – on the lower wall. The position of the bearing walls on the plan of the house is rigidly fixed.
Interroom partitions are not bearing structures. They only divide into separate rooms the internal space of the house, bounded by capital walls. Therefore, they can be made from heavy solid materials (for example, bricks), and from light ones (for example, drywall, wood). Soundproofing, environmental friendliness, aesthetics, the possibility of space redevelopment depend on the material and quality of the partitions.
Comparative characteristics of partitions
Requirements for interior partitions
All interior partitions in the house must:
- to be durable and resilient so as not to create a danger to the residents
- maintain the required service life, in some cases equal to the lifetime of the house itself;
- not have cracks on the surface and in places of junction with other structures (so as not to become a haven for insects, rodents and moisture storage).
In addition, there are special requirements:
- for partitions of bathrooms and laundry is important resistance to moisture and steam. It is desirable to carry them out of waterproof materials, but the main thing is to prevent moisture from entering the interior of the structure. This problem is solved by facing from waterproof material;
- for partitions of second floors and penthouses in houses with floors on wooden beams, low weight is important, since they can withstand a lower load than reinforced concrete;
- if it is necessary to illuminate the room in the depth of the house, then it is better to use a translucent partition – from glass blocks or structures with glass inserts;
- for laying utilities (wiring, chimneys, water pipes, etc.), a stationary partition of increased thickness will be suitable;
- the partition dividing the zones with different temperature regimes must be massive and guarantee high thermal insulation.
In most cases, the system should provide sound insulation of the premises. Massive structures do a good job with this task, and in light partitions, sound insulation material between the skins is used for this purpose.
Sound Protection Level
The airborne sound insulation index for interroom partitions between rooms, a room and a kitchen, a room and a bathroom according to regulatory requirements should be at least 43 dB. The higher this figure, the better the design prevents the spread of domestic noise – from colloquial speech, radio, TV. However, it does not take into account the isolation of low-frequency sounds of a home theater or working engineering equipment (ventilation, pumping). With equal indexes of airborne sound insulation, a massive partition suppresses low-frequency sounds much better than a lightweight frame. It is also important to note that the holes in the partition (for example, the gap in the doorway) significantly reduce the level of sound insulation. In matters of acoustics, there are a lot of nuances, and if for any reason it is important to perfectly soundproof the room, you should contact an acoustic engineer.
Traditional types of interior partitions provide a comfortable level of sound insulation. Structures made of massive and at the same time porous materials – ceramics, aerated concrete, gypsum concrete, shell rock – absorb and reflect sounds of any frequencies well. Such partitions about 10 cm thick provide an acoustic insulation index of 35-40 dB, 15 cm thick – up to 50 dB. To improve the sound insulation of systems made of these materials, if necessary, arrange an air gap between the two rows of masonry or additionally revet the wall with drywall.
Multi-layer constructions are also effective in which external hard layers that reflect sound (for example, gypsum plasterboards) are combined with soft layers that absorb it. In frame partitions, mats or basalt fiber plates are used as soft layers, which are placed between the veneer. The level of sound insulation of frame systems is the higher, the greater the mass and stiffness of the cladding layers, the wider the gap between them and the better the insulating properties of the soft material. Therefore, the absorption of noise will significantly improve the use of a double layer of cladding and special sound and not heat insulating materials.
To achieve the same sound insulation effect, sometimes you have to choose between thick monolithic and narrow multi-layer partitions. The latter can save usable floor space at home.
Ensuring sound insulation of interior partitions
The places of fastening the frames to rigid structures, as well as the places of connection with the floor and ceiling must be insulated with elastic gaskets
As a middle layer, a material with a thickness of 100 mm or more (fiberglass, mineral wool, cellulose insulation) is used, for plating – HL or GF (12 mm)
Taking care of safety, electrical cables are laid in corrugated tubes. air conditioner freon tubes are insulated
Interior partitions from massive materials
The massive include partitions of ceramic materials, shell rock, aerated concrete, silica brick.
Such structures are used in houses made of appropriate materials with reinforced concrete floors. Aerated concrete walls are undesirable to use in rooms with high humidity.
Materials and structures
Brick partitions are made of building ceramic or silicate brick of a grade not less than M25. Sufficient thickness of a single-layer system is 12 cm (half a brick), if the partition is small – 6.5 cm (from a brick laid on the edge). To improve the sound insulation of the structure, it can be made three-layered – mineral wool (5 cm) is placed between two 6.5 cm thick walls or an air gap is left.
If in a brick partition (or its parts) arrange ventilation ducts or hide pipelines, its thickness reaches 38 cm. Such systems are already too heavy to be installed on the floor. On the first floor they are supported on the foundation, on the second – on the wall of the lower floor. Traditional finish brick partition – plaster 1-2 cm.
In a house of ceramic blocks, you can partially or completely make partitions of the same material, namely, from one layer of blocks with a thickness of 10-12 cm. For structures made of aerated concrete, blocks with a thickness of 8-12 cm in one layer are used. Partitions of these materials are lighter than brick ones, it is advantageous to use them if it is necessary to reduce the load on the floor, in addition, they are easier to finish.
The installation of massive partitions begin after the installation of the supporting structures of the building. The base is leveled with a cement-sand mortar. To ensure accuracy when laying the corners, a wooden (from shields) or metal template is used, the verticality of the masonry is checked by a plumb line. In order to connect the partitions with the walls, when laying the latter, at the junction of the partitions, grooves (grooves) 5-6 cm deep are left. Bricks are made in them during the installation of the system. If the grooves are not left, the partition and the wall are connected with metal rods. Wooden wedges are hammered into the gap between the top of the partition and the ceiling, and the gap is filled with plaster mortar.
At the same time, the feature of mounting structures made of ceramic blocks and aerated concrete consists in the fact that the large and precise dimensions of the blocks allow the bricklayer to work without templates. To ensure smooth lines, on the floor and on the wall at the junction of the partition, wooden slats are fastened along which the blocks are laid.
- At the device of partitions from a gas concrete in their basis place waterproofing material (two layers of roofing material).
- If the length of the partition 12 cm thick of brick exceeds 5 m or more than 3 m in height, then the masonry is reinforced with a grid or wire rods, placing them in the solution every 4-5 rows and tying the ends of the reinforcement with the vertical and horizontal bearing structures of the building. 6.5 cm thick brick walls are reinforced with any length and thickness.
- Blocks of aerated concrete and ceramic blocks should be cut to ensure the ligation of the seams (two vertical seams should not be on top of each other).
Interior partitions from massive materials
At the end of this section, you should look at the video instructions, where you can clearly see right by steps exactly how the interior partitions are built from aerated concrete blocks:
Interior partitions of gypsum-concrete slabs
On the basis of gypsum and various fillers, prefabricated large-sized slabs intended for partitions are produced.
Structures made of gypsum-concrete slabs are used in houses with reinforced concrete and wood floors. For rooms with high humidity, moisture-proof plates treated with water-repellent agent are used.
Material and construction
Gypsum concrete slabs can measure 30-50 x 80-125 cm and thickness 6, 8, 10 cm. Usually grooves and protrusions are made along the edges of the slab, which provide a fast and durable assembly. The material is easy to cut and stitched for laying engineering communications in it. Partitions made of gypsum concrete are three times lighter than brick ones and have a smooth and even surface. The thickness of the construction of one layer of plates is 6-10 cm. If it is necessary to improve the sound insulation of the room or lay pipelines in the partition, it is made double.
The system is installed on the overlap of the cement-sand mortar overlap, under the lower blocks enclose waterproofing of roofing material. The template is made of two racks with a movable rail. Plates are placed on each other, as a rule, with the long side horizontally, with bandaging of sutures. Use plaster solution. In the horizontal seams lay reinforcement and fix it in the walls, which limit the partition. The gap between the ceiling and the partition wall is sealed with plaster mortar. Plaster plates do not need enough to proshpaklevat.
- Gypsum mortar should be prepared immediately before use, as it hardens quickly.
- Metal rods, which are placed between the rows of plates, must be treated with bitumen varnish.
General installation rules
- In new buildings, it is advisable to wait several months after the erection of the supporting structures of the building before the partitions are installed, so that their shrinkage occurs.
- Partitions set before you do the floor screed. In the future, performing a screed or a rough wooden flooring, between the floor and the wall of the partition wall, a gasket is made of a sound-insulating material 2 cm thick.
- Installation of systems begin, noting their position lines on the floor, walls and ceiling.
- Structures are rigidly connected with the ceiling at the base and adjacent walls (or other partitions).
Interior partitions of gypsum-concrete slabs
Video guide for the installation of partitions and non-bearing walls of gypsum-concrete slabs:
Wooden interior partitions
Basically they use two types of partitions with the use of wood – solid and frame.
Wooden partitions can be used in houses of any materials, without reinforcing even wooden floors, they are ideal for second floors of buildings and attic floors. Constructions of this material are easy to disassemble, so they are appropriate if redevelopment is possible in the future. In rooms with high humidity, wooden partitions must be protected with a waterproof finish.
Materials and structures
Solid wooden partitions are made of vertically standing boards with a length of floor height and a thickness of 4-6 cm. To improve the sound insulation, the boards are installed in two rows, with a sound insulation material or an air gap between them. The lack of design – high consumption of materials and, accordingly, the cost, as well as great weight compared with frame partitions. Systems on the basis of a wooden frame are made of racks – bars with a cross section of 50-60 x 90-100 mm and upper and lower straps (horizontal bars that frame the frame) of the same section. Soundproof slabs are placed between the frame pillars. The lining is made of clapboard, plywood, OSB or GCR. The partition of the two rows of the frame with separating them air gap or with a two-layer sheathing soundproofing index increases significantly. This design has a thickness of 15-18 cm, inside you can mount engineering communications.
At the base of the partition, a strapping beam is laid, which must firmly rest on the floor beams. The easiest way to place it directly on the beam, and when placing the partition parallel or perpendicular to the beams, as well as diagonally, the beam is installed on the bolt, resting on adjacent beams. To create a solid structure, two horizontal guides are fixed on the trim, between which boards are vertically mounted, connecting them in the upper part with a fixing bar. When mounting a frame partition on a strapping bar put the rack in increments of 40-60 cm (preferably, it coincides with the size of the cladding plates), combining them with upper strapping. The frame elements are fastened together by nails or screws, with the help of metal corners. On the one hand, they mount the casing, and then fill the space between the bars with sound insulation. Structures of the frame are fastened to the walls with metal crutches, to the casing with self-tapping screws.
- At the junction of the partition with adjacent structures it is necessary to fix the metal grid. This will prevent cracking.
- In a wooden house, framed structures should be installed one year after the building has been built (after its shrinkage). The distance between the top of the partition and the ceiling should be at least 10 cm. It is filled with tow and covered with triangular bars.
Wooden interior partitions
Interior plasterboard partitions
A special system for the installation of frame partitions of plasterboard sheets (GKL), which includes all the necessary elements, allows you to perform work especially quickly.
Light partition walls made of gypsum plasterboards can be used in houses made of any constructions and materials and in any premises, even with high humidity (special moisture-proof sheets are provided for such objects).
Materials and structures
The system consists of metal profiles of the frame – horizontal guides and vertical rack-mount (section 50-100 * 50 mm), as well as plasterboard plating 1.25 cm thick and 120 x 200-300 cm in size and sound-proof material. Apply designs with one-, two-and three-layer sheathing, as well as on a double metal frame (with space for utilities). The level of sound insulation of the partition depends on the number of sheets of plating, the thickness of the internal sound insulation layer, the presence of an air gap. Depending on this, the thickness of the partition with a single skin can be from 7.5–12.5 (single) to 17.5–22.5 cm (double), and with a double skin and an air gap, respectively.
The structures are installed during the finishing works before laying the flooring, on the screed or floor. Polyurethane or foam-rubber sound-insulating tape is glued to horizontal profiles, and they are attached to the floor and ceiling with dowels and screws (in increments of about 1 m). Rack-mount profiles are installed in increments of 30, 40 or 60 cm. The frame of the frame on one side is fixed with self-tapping screws, and sound-proofing material is placed between the profiles. Then mount the trim on the other side of the partition. The irregularities of the cladding and the head of the screws are sealed with putty.
- To improve sound insulation, partitions are mounted to the supporting structures of the ceiling and only after that install drywall.
- Seams between gypsum should be putty in two steps.
- To protect against cracks, the joints between the gypsum joints between themselves and adjacent structures should be filled with reinforcing tape.
Interior plasterboard partitions
This video guide clearly demonstrates all the stages of the construction of interroom partitions of plasterboard sheets of small size (small format):
Glass interior partitions
To create partitions produce glass blocks, which differ in a wide palette of colors, a range of surface textures and sizes.
Glass partitions are used so as not to block the access of natural light to the rooms located in the depths of the house.
Constructions and materials
Glass blocks are hollow “bricks” with walls of transparent or colored glass. Due to the presence of air inside, they have good soundproofing properties and transmit 50-80% of the light. As a rule, they are square in shape with dimensions of 19 x 19 cm or 24 x 24 cm and 7.5 – 10 cm thick.
Glass blocks are laid at the stage of finishing the premises after the device has been screed and plastering the walls, but before finishing the floor and finishing the walls and ceiling. Glass blocks can be laid on the cement screed. The process of laying them in the wall is similar to the brickwork, but bandaging the seams is not done. The thickness of the seam is about 1 cm. A cement or mortar-cement mortar is used, which is applied on the horizontal and vertical surfaces of the block before installation. From the point of view of aesthetics, quality jointing is required.
- The junction of the partition of glass blocks to the ceiling must be elastic, using cork gaskets, since glass is a fragile material and the wall may crack during deformation.
- Glass blocks are best laid on white or colored cement, then the seams will look more aesthetic.
Glass interior partitions
The final cost of the septum depends on many factors. Moisture-resistant and fire-resistant materials are more expensive than usual, the price increases the quantity and quality of finish, frame and sound-proof material. The installation of the partition is 30 – 40% of the cost of the material, and its delivery and unloading, especially in the case of heavy materials, may be equivalent to their cost.
These articles will also be of interest to you:
DIY drywall partition walls, step by step instructions
To build in your house or apartment interior doors of drywall with your own hands, step by step instructions of this process is absolutely not interfere. This is true, for example, in the case of the presence of heterosexual children in the family. To build a brick capital wall, permission from the relevant authorities is required, and it will cost too much. In addition, the easiest and cheaper to build their own interroom partition of plasterboard. Photos of such structures give a good idea of their aesthetic and practical qualities.
To mount a plasterboard partition with your own hands is not at all difficult
What materials and tools will be needed to make a plasterboard interior partition
In order to build a partition, we need to first make a rigid frame. For its manufacture will need a 75-mm galvanized profile with additional elements and wooden bars. They will be needed to make the frame stronger in some places. Sheath frame will be sheets of gypsum board with a thickness of 12.5 mm standard size using self-tapping screws.
Plasterboard partitions in the interior
Between the sheets of gypsum plasterboards we will place a sound-proof material when creating our own interior partitions from drywall. Photos of this “pie” can be found and considered in detail.
In addition to materials for the work we need to get the following tool:
- cordless screwdriver or a small drill with a suitable nozzle;
- small manual building level (bubble or hydro level);
- measuring 5 – 10 meter tape;
- Plumb, to align the guide vertical profiles.
With the help of a partition the room can be divided into functional zones.
Helpful advice! If you have a laser self-leveling level. then the speed and quality of your work will improve significantly. It allows you to better vertical and horizontal levels.
Having prepared the necessary tools and materials, you can proceed directly to the construction of a plasterboard partition with your own hands. Video of this process will help to better understand the whole technology and sequence of the device.
Interroom partition from HL with a doorway
Do-it-yourself interior plasterboard partitions, step-by-step instructions with explanations and helpful tips
The process of installing a plasterboard partition consists of several stages: installation of a frame of guide profiles, installation of a doorway, filling of the frame with plasterboard sheets, finishing works. Consider these steps in order.
The room before and after the construction of the partition
Mounting the framework for the partition wall
Before installing the frame, it is necessary to mark the floor and ceiling in the required place using the level.
- self-tapping screws fasten guide profile along the line on the floor;
- In the lower profile near the walls we insert vertical guides, which are fixed to the walls with dowels strictly vertically. The step between fasteners should be no more than 30 – 50 cm. At the junction of profiles, we use ordinary screws for fastening them together or a slider;
Step 1: cutting the profile and gluing its back wall with sealing tape
- we install the ceiling profile with constant monitoring using a plumb line. As a result, securing four profiles, we get a rectangular frame – the basis for the future, made with your own hands, drywall partition walls. The video of the carcass structure best illustrates the intricacies of this process.
Step 2: horizontal fastening of profiles to the floor
The formation of the elements of the doorway
In our partition there will be a regular swing door, so you need to provide a place in the frame for installing the door unit. The walls must be rigid to withstand the load.
Step 3: Attaching Profiles to Walls and Ceiling
Helpful advice! To increase the stiffness you need to take dry and straight wooden bars, which should go inside the profile. They will significantly strengthen the doorway, which will help secure the door unit securely and firmly.
The doorway is formed in the following sequence:
- we cut the galvanized rack-mount profile in height, supply it with a wooden bar, which is inserted inside;
- ready-made structures with bars are inserted inside the guide profiles on the floor and ceiling, so that the width along the bottom and along the top of the door opening coincides;
Step 4: vertical installation of profiles in 60 cm steps
- Using any level, we carefully monitor the verticality of the installation of door pillars and fasten them with 35-mm galvanized screws. Compliance with the level is especially important when building your own interior drywall partitions. Photo ugly designs no one likes;
- cut a piece of rack profile segment equal to the width of the doorway for the manufacture of transverse beams. We also insert a bar into it and set it to the required height strictly horizontally;
Step 5: cross-shaped fastening of profiles between themselves for the construction of the opening
- on the back of the racks and the crossbar, we will prepare small holes for the nail. To do this, you need a drill with an appropriate drill. Bars are drilled to a depth of 50 mm, which will be almost half of the nail;
- nails 120-150 mm, you need to fasten wooden structures that are inserted into the profiles. To do this, hammer nails very carefully with an ordinary hammer;
- we finish the mounting of the crossmember after screwing in the screws on the side on both sides.
Profile types for drywall: size and price
What determines the quality and durability of interior decoration. Characteristics of metal profiles.
Having fully built the doorway, we begin to install the remaining vertical pillars.
Step 6: Forming a Doorway
Installation of vertical racks
We continue to build a plasterboard partition with our own hands. The step-by-step instruction for installing vertical profiles will be as follows:
- the places of mounting the rack profile are marked by the width of the sheet of drywall, which is 120 cm in standard. Thus, one sheet will have 3 racks installed vertically through 60 cm;
Step 7: Finished Metal Profile Frame
- since it is better to put the whole plasterboard sheets from the middle to the edges in order to hide the trimming in the most inconspicuous places, then you need to start installing the racks from the doorway towards the walls;
- Each vertical profile is checked with a level and fastened to the guide using conventional screws.
Step 8: lining one side of the frame with sheets of gypsum boards and laying soundproof material
Installation of horizontal crossbars and wiring
To increase the rigidity of the whole structure, all vertical guides should be connected with horizontal bars. This can be done in steps of 70 – 80 cm.
- 65 cm long pieces are made from the profile of the rack, the edges of which are cut so that they can be fixed to the vertical posts;
- when the frame is assembled, we lay electrical wires inside it. For this, the profile manufacturer has provided special holes in its products;
Step 9: Plasterboard Sheeting for the Second Side of the Frame
- electrical wiring is laid inside plasterboard partitions in a special corrugated non-combustible insulation.
This can be considered complete installation of the frame for the partition of drywall with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions for fixing sheets of drywall to the frame are presented below.
Step 10: wiring inside the wall
Installation of sheets HL on the frame
Before you start to install sheets, you need to know how to cut them if necessary:
- if there are no special tools for cutting plasterboard, then you can use a regular profile with a knife for drywall;
- in order to cut a sheet along the desired line, it is necessary to put a piece of profile on it and cut the plaster layer as deep as possible with multiple movements of the knife. After that, just enough to break the sheet on this notch. Cut edges are treated with a special plasterboard plane. If not, then you can do it with a knife, if you remove the chamfer from the butt at 45 degrees;
Step 11: Output Sockets and Switches
Helpful advice! In those places where it is planned to nail the shelves, hooks, niches, and similar objects, you need to pre-install wooden mortgages from the bars. Subsequently, these measures greatly facilitate the fixing of furniture.
- we fasten the gypsum board to the guides using self-tapping screws at a step of 15-20 cm. Self-tapping screws must be drowned in the body of the sheet by 1 mm, but we must try not to break the cardboard;
- when installing sheets, we are guided along vertical guides to maintain the level;
Step 12: Grout the joints between sheets of drywall
- When installing a drywall sheet, you need to provide a certain gap below. To do this, install the same stand. Do-it-yourself drywall partition walls, the video editing of which is very numerous, tend to settle down over time. The gap is needed so that the sheets are not deformed;
- We produce sound insulation of partitions with the help of mineral wool or isover, which is placed between the sheets.
Step 13: the end of the installation of the partition and the transition to fine finish
Step-by-step instruction will be very useful for creating your own plasterboard partitions. Since a well-constructed structure will be tough, stable and attractive in appearance.
DIY drywall partition (video)
Sources: http://domikfaq.pro/sdelat/kak-sdelat-mezhkomnatnuyu-peregorodku-iz-gipsokartona-svoimi-rukami/, http://remstd.ru/archives/stroim-mezhkomnatnyie-peregorodki-svoimi-rukami/, http://remoo.ru/steny/peregorodki-iz-gipsokartona-svoimi-rukami-poshagovaya-instruktsiya/