How to make a frame house with your own hands

Before you start building a frame house with your own hands you need to lay the foundation. For lightweight construction is fine shallow ribbon. cheap columnar or screw foundation suitable for any type of soil.

Pile-screw is the best option for light houses due to the high maintainability and the possibility of ventilation of wooden structures. It is necessary to provide for a cut-off waterproofing from above: the best option is a roofing material in 2 layers.

The bottom strapping is laid on waterproofing with fastening with anchor bolts. Boards are laid out one after another on the sides of the foundation with a minimum number of joints, as in the video.

Frame construction

The frame can be installed wooden or metal. Metal will cost more, but you can use steel fasteners to fasten it.

The wooden one will have to be treated with an antiseptic before starting work and for its fastening it will be necessary to do with wooden pins. The frame can be assembled separately from the foundation.

How to make a frame house with your own hands? The assembly of the frame starts from the corners, as in the video. To create an angle, you need to fix 2 boards that will have to be tightly spliced. Secondarily, boards are installed that mark the beginning of window and door openings.

The distance between the remaining racks is better if it corresponds to the width of the insulating material – plates or rolls. Too often, racks are not necessary either. They are cold bridges. Vertical beams need to be strengthened with braces.

After installing the braces and leveling the racks on the level, you can proceed to laying the crown of the first floor ceiling.

The next stage is formed door and window openings. Vertical side racks are already formed, so you only need to install horizontal bases for the sill and the top of the window / door. Boards are fastened with screws, the bottom board is additionally fixed.

The crate can be made oblique or horizontal. The horizontal is considered weaker and starts up every 20 cm of emptiness.

The oblique starts up at an angle of 45 degrees also every 25 cm of emptiness and is fastened with self-tapping screws. After installing the lathing temporary strings can be removed.

Overlaps

Beams for floors must be calculated in such a way as to minimize the sag of the structure. Beams are placed one along the other and fastened with studs. The distance between adjacent beams should not exceed 50-60 cm.

For the overlap of the floor of the first floor you need to install additional supports. For the floors of the second floor such props will be the inner walls. As you can see, the installation of a frame house with their own hands is quite feasible.

If an overlap of the last floor is being built, then the ends of the lag will be needed as supports for the roof rafters. The roof can be covered with an ondulin, metal tile, soft roof. The frame of the roof begins to be placed from the corners.

The ends are attached to the logs, and the top is most often set with a triangle. The distance between the rafters should be from 60 to 100 cm. Work on the assembly of a frame house with your own hands is best done on the ground.

Before finishing the house with siding, you need to wrap the walls and roof with a vapor-permeable membrane with an overlap of 20-30 cm.

After the walls are covered with siding, the roof is covered with a roof, and the windows are inserted into the window openings, you can finish the work with the floor. Below the lag is hemmed board, which will be laid insulation. Below is laid foam, which spreads out mineral wool. Next is the floor grid perpendicular to the sex lags. Plywood or OSB plate is sewn on the floor.

It now remains to warm the walls with foam plastic and mineral wool, fix the vapor barrier from the inside and perform the interior finish. Additional solid home stability will be provided by the installation of internal braces.

For clarity, we recommend to see step-by-step photos and video materials on this page, which will help to figure out how to build a frame house with your own hands.

Video building a house frame do it yourself

I have no words! Such a cool photo report on the assembly of a frame-shield house! I also want to do it myself, I really hope that next summer I will have something similar. Only I want to make a frame house a little smaller, probably as in the video. Although I partially watched video clips and I understand that I will be building a frame house alone for a very long time. It is necessary to call any brother, brother-in-law in any way, and also you can make friends of builders, so that in one summer season you can raise and sheathe it from the inside and outside.

Plus Good step by step instructions! But all the same, it seems to me that to build such a house, as in the photo, on their own is practically not realistic. I, for example, have a bad understanding of this in construction. We need a person who fumbles in this, and I could be in the wings. Then I think it is possible, and even then the two should not be built, but at least four of them, so that in one summer season you can build up and build a frame house, as in the video at least. About the two-storey house, which is in the photos, I keep quiet about it

Some kind of frail construction is obtained. It seems to me much more reliable house of aerated concrete or brick. What is in the photo is more relevant for America, where all the houses are cardboard)) For Russian conditions, something must be thoroughly done anyway

Acne answer your hypothesis. Together for a summer season it is real to build such a house. 4 people is a bust. either they will fool the will, or if it is a good team then it will end in two months

That would be more, and an estimate was made to know approximately what it would cost (at least approximately) all this joy

hello to everyone. everything is interestingly described and shown, but you can calculate how much money will be spent on up to size 6 * 9?

Hello, I really liked the two-storey house with a garage, I want to build the same one, you could not send me a draft of this house and an estimate for me, that is, the quantity and what material was used in the construction of this particular house, thanks in advance.

Thanks to the author, a good photo report and video selection, I plan to build from spring 2016, you can send me at least an approximate calculation of the cost of materials for the construction of such a house as in the photo. Thank.

A friend and his brother built a frame house of 8 * 8.2 floors, a double-slope roof for 2 months (without interior decoration). He got them at about 500,000 rubles. There is nothing impossible about it. I myself now want to build this))

Such a nice house. By next summer, we want to build on our own. You can send material consumption. Thank.

Where will the moisture go from the walls? you closed the walls outside with foam and plaster. Ice in the wall in winter is guaranteed, as is the subsequent mold. About insulation in the frame itself is not a word. The strings at the stage of the frame construction are also not visible.

With warming got excited of course. Even aerated concrete is not recommended to insulate with foam, and here it is even more so NOT. Greenhouse inside the wall. cucumbers and molds will grow well and most importantly, quickly. Where will the moisture go? Who canceled the dew point and when? In winter, in the cold, there will be ice, in the thaw water. In short, poor builders.

tear off the foundation without a drainage, without a walkway, floor logs should have an overlap of at least 30 cm, strutting in the walls no, in the door and window openings should be double racks, use screws in the frame is strictly prohibited, read SP 31- 105 SHELLERS

It is IMPOSSIBLE to warm the frame frame outside with polyfoam. Hacking, decorated well, the foundation is not bad, the rest is average. Thermal insulation foam – ignorance of basic things!

Please tell me where to get the project of this house or at least something about it.

Very high quality photo report. The only question is about additional weatherization. The CIP panels already have excellent thermal insulation. Additional insulation – a waste of money and the deterioration of the ventilation of the facades.

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    Andrei Parkhomenko, there is no point in comparing a drywall with drywall at all, except that you can. A completely different class of materials and scope of application is different. From drywall.

    I did this. only instead of tile glue. advised “Belaton”
    Mixed plaster and putty 50 to 50 and pva-m professional
    Happened.

    Good topic thermopanels! Fast warm and reliable! There are also ceramobeton thermal panels that made the office just cool.

    I built a house of aerated concrete and I am going to sheathe it outside with thermopanels. Who already mounted them? How are the results? Or it may be easier and cheaper to make a wet facade, although it is not.

    Thanks for the detailed instructions! At my dacha, just an old washing machine is lying around. It will be necessary to use a motor from it to create an emery machine. Only

    Frame house do it yourself: photos of the stages of construction

    Prefabricated houses are attractive because with the ready foundation you can put the house very quickly. For example, the construction of a frame house with your own hands, by two people, is possible in a month without haste. And this is if inexperienced workers are involved with the construction, who only know how to hold a hammer in their hands. All because the assembly takes place step by step: regular repetition of simple actions. It is only important to know how to properly assemble each node. Having the instruction, understanding the principle of construction, the frame house can independently assemble any.

    No less attractive frame construction that can get by with minimal cost. How much money is needed specifically for construction depends on the size of the house, on the materials used (type and type of wood, finishing materials). But in any case, it is one of the cheapest methods. (About home building technologies read here)

    Timber frame houses are not the only ones. There are regions in which wood is a luxury. They put metal frames. Given that metal is not cheap today, it still turns out to be relatively inexpensive.

    An approximate estimate of the frame house 12 * 9 meters, prices are for 2013. You can estimate the current cost of components in your area.

    One more thing. Many are interested in whether it is possible to leave an unfinished frame house, and if so at what stages. The answer is that it is possible, and the first stage is known to everyone: the finished foundation is left to spend the winter. Still possible wintering options in the following form:

    • foundation + frame + roof (without floor);
    • foundation + frame + roof + outer siding OSB + windscreen;
    • foundation + frame + roof + exterior lining of OSB + windscreen + mounted and heated floor and ceiling + partitions.

    With windows and doors to leave for the winter without supervision is dangerous. In other cases, the postponement of completion of construction, even not bad: the wood dries. In winter, as a rule, low humidity and drying is active. At the same time reveal all the shoals in the already mounted part.

    In general, it must be said that it lives well in a frame house in which all the nodes are made correctly. This technology does not forgive mistakes. Even minor. If you want to familiarize yourself with the building codes, find joint venture 31-105-2002, which is called “Design and construction of energy-efficient single-family houses with wooden frames”. There are all descriptions and requirements.

    Step by step construction instructions with photos

    There are several different technologies for frame housing construction, but the classic method of construction is Canadian. It is also called the platform method, because first the floor of the frame house is assembled, and then the skeleton of the walls is assembled on it, like on a platform. Let us tell you how to build a house using this method. With the rest it will be easy to understand: only the sequence of actions differs.

    Step 1: The Foundation of the frame house

    The choice of the foundation is a separate complex and voluminous topic. The geological picture of the site, the height of the groundwater, the weight of the building and the seasonality of living in it, the region in which the construction takes place, snow and wind loads are taken into account. But in general, under the carcasses do most often pile, pile-grillage or strip foundations.

    In our country, the palm in frame house-building with their own hands belongs to the pile-rostrum foundation. It is quickly built, requires small material investments, correctly calculated and built, it is reliable. Combining the advantages of both pile and belt, it evenly transfers the load to all supports.

    More reliable in the construction of pile or pile-grillage foundations are piles TISE. Due to the extended heel, they have a greater bearing capacity and better resist heaving forces.

    The device of the pile-grillage foundation with TISE piles

    Drilling wells under the piles can be hand-drilled or motorized. As an opabulka, they use rolled roofing material rolled into pipes of the required diameter (at least three layers should be screwed), fixed with scotch tape. Other options are asbestos cement or PVC pipes of suitable diameter. Three or four bars of reinforcement, interconnected in the form of a triangle or a square, are installed inside the piles. The reinforcement rods are cut so that at least 0.7-0.8 meters protrude above the pile surface. All is poured with concrete of a grade not lower than M25 (read about the grades of concrete here).

    After casting the piles, the formwork for the tape (grillage) is installed, the fittings are laid and knitted into it. Longitudinal rods are connected with curved reinforcement releases from piles. At this stage, holes are left in the tape for supplying communications and ventilation (insert pieces of plastic pipes across the tape).

    The strapping beam will be attached to the foundation tape later. For its installation in the tape fastened studs. They are installed in increments of 1-2 meters. From each corner to both sides retreat by 30 cm. Here studs are required, the rest, depending on the size of the house, but not less than 2 meters. Consider, what exactly hairpins connect a framework of the house with the base. Therefore it is better to deliver more often. And yet: no matter how short the wall, the studs must be at least two.

    When everything is ready, concrete is poured.

    Flooded grillage. The foundation for a frame house with your own hands is ready

    After pouring concrete, so that it does not dry, but gain strength, it is better to cover it with polyethylene (see photo). If the temperature after pouring the foundation is kept within + 20 ° C, after about 3-5 days you can continue construction. During this time, under such conditions, concrete will pick up more than 50% of its strength. You can work with him freely. When the temperature drops, the term increases significantly. So at + 17 ° C you need to wait about 10 days.

    Step 2: Bottom Rail and Floor

    To prevent the wood of the frame from drawing moisture from concrete, a cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The most reliable is to make bitumen mastic. And better – in two layers. You can also use roll waterproofing. The roofing material is cheaper, but it eventually breaks. More reliable waterproofing or other similar modern material.

    You can miss the grillage once with mastic, and on top roll out waterproofing. Another option for shut-off waterproofing under the frame house – two layers of waterproofing, smeared with mastic: the closer the groundwater is, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.

    The first layer is liquid waterproofing. Until it is dry, you can glue a layer of roll on it.

    Then stacked – board size 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and flame retardant compounds. The edge of the prone is aligned on the outer edge of the foundation. Holes are drilled in the required places for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is laid so as to block the joint of the first row. It turns out the lock.

    The second board is stacked so that the joints overlap

    In general, it is possible to lay one beam 100-150 cm, but its price is much higher than two boards, which together give the same thickness, and correctly fastened two boards have a greater bearing capacity, although it takes more time to lay them. So that they work as a single timber, they are knocked down with nails in increments of 20 cm in a checkerboard pattern.

    We put the strapping and logs

    Next to the rail board is attached strapping. Its size is also 150-50 mm, but it is placed on the edge. It is leveled at the outer edge of the foundation, and is nailed with long nails (9 cm) to the sunbath every 40 cm.

    Installation of the harness: according to the instructions, the assembly of the frame house continues with the installation of the harness to which. will lag the floor

    The next stage – installation and installation of the lag. These are the same boards 150 * 50 mm, put on the edge. They are attached with two oblique nails (9 cm) in the butt to the trimming board, two nails on the right and left to the bedside. So each lag on both sides.

    Installation example floor lag

    The photo shows that the first lag is set close to the second – this is how the load on the foundation is transmitted better. It is installed on the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the length of the span and the section of the sawmill used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.

    Lay and fixed floor logs

    If the lags are long and there is a crossbeam, as in the photo above, the lags do not “leave” over the crossbeam jumpers. They are equal in length to the installation step lag minus twice the thickness of the board: if the step is lag 55 cm, the thickness of the board is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.

    Insulation and flooring

    After the base under the flooring is installed, it is time for floor insulation. It can be done in different ways, with different materials. We show the economy option – with expanded polystyrene plates with a density of 15 kg / m3 (more can be, less – no). Of course, it is not environmentally friendly, but the only one is not afraid of moisture and can be mounted without a subfloor. The calculated insulation thickness is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one is 10 cm, the second is 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (they are shifted).

    For a start, a cranial bar of 50 * 50 mm is packed on the bottom edge of the log. It will hold the foam.

    At the bottom there is a frame from a cranial bar that will prevent polystyrene foam from falling out.

    Polyfoam is cut by a usual hacksaw. The canvas can be taken on a tree – it cuts faster, but it turns out a ragged edge or on metal – it goes slower, but the edge is smoother. The cut plates are laid in two layers, the seams overlap. Then, around the perimeter, they are glued with a sealant – to ensure waterproofing.

    Next, lay the rough floor of the boards, align it and lay plywood on top (better FSF 5-6 mm). In order not to twist the rough flooring of the boards, lay the boards interspersed with the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross-section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, it is necessary for the arc to look up and then down (see photo).

    How to properly lay the flooring of the boards

    You can do without the flooring of the boards. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your area and choose.

    In any case, the sheets should fit into the run – the seams should not be the same (as in the brickwork). Do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between the sheets of plywood to compensate for changes in size with changing humidity.

    Completed the second stage of building a frame house: flooring

    Plywood is mounted on screws 35 mm long (preferably white – less waste) around the perimeter with a pitch of 12 cm, inside in a checkerboard pattern with a pitch of 40 cm.

    Step 3: Frame Walls

    There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part depends on the size) on the floor, then it rises, is exposed and fixed. Sometimes with this method, OSB, GVL, plywood are fastened directly to the floor on the outside of the frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called a frame-shield or “platform”. According to this principle, the factories mainly work: they build ready-made boards according to the project in the workshop, bring them to the site and only install them there. But the frame-shield housing construction is possible with your own hands.

    One of the options for assembling a frame wall, the names of the elements

    The second way: everything is going gradually, in place. The bar of the lower trim is hammered, the corner posts are set, then intermediate, the upper trim, etc. This is the technology called “frame housing construction” or “ballun”.

    Assembling the frame of the walls with their own hands can be done gradually (technology ball) or blocks-shields (technology platform)

    Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether there is an opportunity, at least periodically, to attract assistants. It is faster and more convenient to work on the floor than to jump up / down the ladder countless times. But if the section is large, it will be difficult to lift it even together. Exit – or call assistants, or break the wall frame into small segments.

    Installation step and cross-section of racks

    Corner posts should be 150 * 150 mm or 100 * 100 mm depending on the load and the required width of insulation. For a single-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story house – at least 150 mm. Intermediate racks in depth are the same as the corner, and their thickness – not less than 50 mm.

    The step of installation of racks is chosen taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected on the basis of the width of the insulation. If you insulate with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The clearance between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste; there will be no gaps and cracks through which it will be warm too. The density of the installation of insulation in the cage – the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold. Therefore, the selection of insulation and its installation must be treated with full attention.

    The option of gradual assembly of the frame of the house: the corner posts are set and fixed, the top trim is immediately mounted on them, then with the selected step vertical stands

    Fastening racks is possible in several ways: wooden pins, with a hem or on the corners. The hem into the bottom trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. Corners are mounted on both sides. The fastening of the dowels is an old technology, but difficult to perform: they make long dowels, a hole is drilled through a stand and a bar of the bottom trim, a wooden thorn is driven into it, the surplus of which is cut off. It works well if the wood used is dry. If not, shrinking and loss of attachment rigidity are possible. Installation on reinforced corners is much easier.

    According to Canadian technology, beams, to which windows and doors are attached, are made double. There is more load here, hence the support should be more powerful.

    Reinforced racks near windows and doors are a must. Only in this way a frame house built with your own hands will be reliable.

    Trims or bracing

    If the outer plating is planned from high-strength plate material – OSB, GVL, GVK, plywood – mowing put temporary and inside the room. They are needed to align and maintain the geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is enough to create the required rigidity.

    If sheathing is planned to be made up from lining, etc. installation of permanent braids is required. And the best option is not those who put on several racks, but four small pieces each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).

    Such braces will give sufficient rigidity to the walls of the frame house.

    Pay attention to the photo above the national team stand: two boards are knocked together with nails all over in a checkerboard pattern. These racks have an even greater carrying capacity than solid ones, cost less. This is a real way to reduce construction costs without losing quality. But time for construction increases: it is necessary to hammer nails a lot.

    Corners of the frame house

    Most questions arise when building corners. If you put a timber in the corner, then there seems to be no difficulty, except for the fact that the angle turns cold. In regions with a short and mild winter, this is not a problem, but already in central Russia requires some kind of solution.

    Even with this option, the angle will be cooler

    There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in the diagrams, so clearer.

    When building a single-storey frame house, you can do so

    With a residential second floor, the corners are made in one of these ways.

    After assembling the frame, it is usually outside sheathed with OSB, plywood or other similar material.

    Step 4: Overlap

    Overlapping beams are based on the top trim bar. There are several ways to mount:

    • on supporting steel brackets;
    • on the corners;
    • with sidebar;

    Cutting – cutting depth should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the upper trim beam. From above it is hammered with two nails, which should enter the strapping not less than 10 cm. Corners – the usual method. You can use enhanced, but not necessarily Perforated staples – the shape may be different Ceiling Beam Mounting with Metal Brackets

    The dimensions of the beams, the pitch of their installation depends on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or attic. the section is taken more, the step is taken less: so that the floor does not sag. If on top only the roof and the attic are supposed to be uninhabited – these are completely different calculations and sizes.

    In this one-storeyed frame house, the floor beams are at the same time a support for the rafters. Because they are released at 30 cm for the perimeter of the walls

    If the second floor is completed, the overlap is sheathed with a rough floor of the second floor. So working on the creation of the second floor of a frame house will be easier. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first. Is it only the fact that all the lumber has to be dragged to the second floor.

    Step 5: The rafter system and roofing material

    When developing a house project on frame technology, the most popular are the gable or mansard roof. Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only restriction applies to the weight of the roofing: it must be lightweight material from which wooden beams and ceilings can withstand the load.

    This is what the frame looks like before the trim. If the walls are not sheathed, slight fluctuations are felt when working on the truss system. The outer skin makes the frame much tougher. A gable roof with a raised puff was chosen. For the convenience of fixing truss legs along the edge of the floor joists, a bar of 50 * 50 mm was nailed. In the rafters under it was made gash. At installation, they at first simply rested in a bar, then fastened For fixing the rafters in a predetermined position before filling the crate, temporary jibs were used.

    Step 6: Warming

    It is possible to warm the frame house with any of the materials available on the market with the corresponding characteristics. They are all imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.

    Basalt wool is the most popular insulation for frame walls. It comes in the form of rolls or mats of different densities. It is more convenient to install mats in the walls: they are denser and keep themselves well due to arching force. To do this, as mentioned above, their size should be 2-3 cm longer than the distance between the legs of the frame. Mats, of course, are additionally fixed with special fasteners, but it is more convenient to work than with a soft roll.

    The most common cake warming frame wall

    Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics, good sound insulation. But there is also a solid drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected from all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from steam penetration. Therefore, from the side of the room, it is covered with a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which prevents the pairs from penetrating inside.

    From the side of the street, thermal insulation made of mineral wool is closed by another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: a hydro-wind-protective vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown, from the side of the street it does not allow moisture in the liquid and gaseous state, and the pair can leave the insulation: vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only finishing work remains. Actually, all construction is over.

    It looks like a basalt mat installed between the racks

    Now you know how to build a frame house. Detailing some of the processes is far from complete, but you have a general assembly sequence. Perhaps you will be helped by another video from a professional carpenter who has been engaged in the construction of frame houses for decades (see below).

    Video installation instructions for frame houses

    These are three videos of a great carpenter, Larry Khon. Each of them lasting more than an hour. The technology of building a frame house on the finished foundation is painted in great detail.

    According to this instruction, self-erection is possible without questions: all stages of building a frame house and small things are commented and explained, to the point of what kind of nails, how long, how many pieces with which step, to hammer in each node. Demonstrates the main problems that may arise and methods for correcting them. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, do not take the time – watch the movie. You will become much clearer.

    The first part is the bottom trim and the floor.

    The second part of the video is the device and assembly of frame walls.

    The third part is the construction of the roof of a frame house.

    If you still doubt whether it is worth building a frame house, this is probably because you heard that this is a bad technology, that it does not work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that in Canadian and American frame houses they put out of dry forest, humidity. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood from the sawmill brings almost natural moisture, which is up to 60%. Because the house leads and turns, they become cold.

    But if you are going to build a house with your own hands, what will prevent you from using dry wood? Chamber drying it is expensive, the difference per cubic is very decent – almost twice. But by folding the wood on the plot into ventilated piles, it can be dried up to the same 20-22% per year. Saturate or not before drying bioprotection you decide for yourself. Dry wood does not rot and is not damaged by fungi, but from insects it is desirable to saturate it with bioprotection.

    An example of such an opinion in the video. Explaining why the technology is bad…

    Sources: http://kakpravilnosdelat.ru/karkasnyj-dom-svoimi-rukami/, http://mainavi.ru/dom/stroitelstvo-doma/karkasnyj-dom-svoimi-rukami/, http://stroychik.ru/ strojmaterialy-i-tehnologii / karkasnyj-dom-svoimi-rukami

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