How to make a crate

  How to make a crate

The single-layer sparse obreshetka is made of edged boards 3×10 centimeters, with a step of rafters from 0.8 to 1 meter. If the board is thinner (2.5×10), then the step is reduced to 0.8 meters. Are there any features of the installation? Preliminary it is required to make a hydrobarrier from an anti-condensate micro-perforated film. Above has been given a description of its facilities. Board crates, the first from the eaves, one height of the wave tile should be higher than the boards in the composition of the main coating.

It is nailed under a hydro-barrier, to the very edge of the cornice. The next one is nailed to the counter-crate so that the distance between the edge of the eaves board (first) and the middle of the second one is similar to the width of the tile. The remaining boards are nailed at a distance corresponding to the wave step of the selected metal tile. Nails are hammered strictly in pairs, at the edge of the boards: caps should be sunk into wood. If for the device obreshetki use short boards, their joints should have a chess order.

Important! At the points of intersection and intersection of slopes (ribs, ventilation channels, ridge, galls, chimneys) and along the eaves of the eaves, the desired solid crate. Otherwise, when installing the additional elements, the roofing screws will be in a vacuum.

Folding roof successfully equip on a solid or sparse crate. If the roof has a complex geometry, or the roof has a slope of 3-14 °, it is desirable to use a continuous crate. In others, it is acceptable to make it sparse, saving on materials. How to make a continuous crate, we have already told. The peculiarities of the rarefied construction for seam paintings will be discussed below.

It is extremely important to properly calculate the required crate step for this type of coating. Otherwise, the appearance of noticeable deflections of steel sheets is quite possible, with the result that the roof will become wavy, and not even, as it should be. Usually, in such cases, a board measuring 3.2 × 10 cm or a five-centimeter (5 × 5) timber is taken to install the batten. The board or timber is fixed from the eaves to the ridge at a distance of approximately 30-40 cm. An anti-condensate film (playing the role of a hydro-barrier) should be laid on the rafters, even before the installation of the batten, and also the grille should be nailed.

Make the crate should be from the eaves. The first board is nailed along its edge, which should cover the end of the molding of the cornice, then in increments of up to 40 centimeters all the way to the ridge. A solid crate (0.6 m from the edge) is arranged at the points of installation of the valley and eaves, at the points of junction with the parts of the building that protrude. The most recent additional boards are installed, to which later transition bridges, snow holders, etc. will be attached.

A complete absence of irregularities, indentations and protrusions on the crate is imperative. The bottom board of the eaves overhang, the ribs and the ridge is recommended to be straightforward. Since a metal sheet closely fits to the crate, the tree is necessarily painted or treated with antiseptic compositions. The service life of the structure also increases when processing dried wood with linseed oil.

The structure of the lathing under slate usually consists of wooden bars perpendicular to the rafters. The distance between them depends on the size of the roofing material used. For standard sheets of asbestos cement slate (1.2 × 0.68 m), it is about half a meter, the timber itself must have a cross section of 5 to 5 centimeters. When using a unified version of this slate (1.75 x1.125 m), it should be kept within 0.8 meters, and the dimensions of the timber 7.5×7.5 cm.

Each slate sheet must have a support of at least three bars. For this reason, the eaves must be 6 mm thicker than the others, or it must be lifted up using pads. Even-parallel bars are made above three millimeters above odd.

In the case when it is supposed to lay four crate sheets under the sheet, they should have three different types of thickness: main, 2 mm more, and 4 mm more. This difference is ensured by the use of special pads under the bars (pieces of fiberboard, roofing felt, roofing felt, etc.) or pieces of different-sized lumber. This design provides a dense overlap of the roofing material, as well as a uniform load on slate sheets. Near the ridge, overhangs and gutters, the flooring of wood should be solid. The listed principles of this design can be used for the device of an obreshetka under Ondulin. having previously calculated the required pitch of the board or bar for a specific sheet.

The device of the sheathing for ceramic, polymer-cement and cement-sand tile in the work of roofers is considered the most difficult. Under the ceramic tile you will need a sparse construction of the batten with five centimeter bars. For cement sand, a more massive timber is needed, 6×6 cm. The event begins with a hydro-barrier device from a special film, then a counter grill is made. Then comes the crucial moment.

It is extremely important to calculate as accurately as possible the size of the steps between the bars of the batten, and perform them in strict accordance with the calculations made. The perfect execution of a tiled roof implies a whole number of shards, both in the transverse and in the longitudinal direction. For the tile, it will be necessary to calculate its covering value, since this parameter should be equal to the pitch of the batten. It can be 16-40 cm, depending on the type of profile and its manufacturer. Most often, this figure is 30-33 centimeters.

Crack the roof do it yourself

The roof will look attractive and will protect the structure from precipitation and wind for a long time if the crate is properly laid. Wooden lathing is an integral part of the roofing system, it is used to fix the roofing and insulation material. To make the roof crate correctly is a crucial stage of construction, which should be carefully prepared for. Lathing the roof with his own hands significantly saves finances when building your own house.

Types of roofs, the main elements of the roofing system

Actually the roof can be gable and chetyrekhskatnaya (hip) with varieties. The main elements of the classic gable roof are presented below:

Photo 1. Chetyrekhskatnaya (hip) roof

  • Rafters – perform the role of vertical and / or inclined supports. Connect at an angle to each other. In the upper part are mounted on the bolts or brackets.
  • Mauerlat – horizontally laid timber on which rafters lean.
  • Overhangs – the lower part of the rafters.
  • Skate – the upper part of the roof at the junction of rafters.
  • The batten and counter grill are the main fastening elements of the roofing and insulation.
  • Waterproofing and insulation – used for arranging warm attics.
  • Roofing – distinguish between hard and soft coating.

Naturally, the roofing system consists of a much larger number of elements than indicated above. However, to understand how to do the roof lathing with your hands is enough. There is a cold roof – insulation is laid in the attic, the roofing system is not insulated and a warm roof – insulation and waterproofing are an integral part of the roof. The warm roof is used for the arrangement of mansard attics used as living quarters.

Photo 2. Horizontal beam – mauerlat

Photo 3. Sparse lathing is used under hard roofing, for example from slate

Photo 4. The main elements of the roofing system

Purpose of the sheathing in the roofing system

The crate performs the following functions:

  • mounting roofing materials;
  • ventilation between the roof and insulation, in order to prevent the formation of condensate on the border of the warm and cold roof layers;
  • fastening of insulation and waterproofing materials;
  • protection of the roof system from the load on the roof of winter precipitation in the form of snow and ice.

Materials and tools

To make a roof crate with your own hands you will need the following building materials and tools. Prepare them well in advance.

  • Bars not lower than 1 grade without knots, for a roof of metal tile – 50×50 cm, for a metal roof – 60×40 cm, ceramic tile – 75×75 cm, the length of bars from 6 meters.
  • Edged board is not lower than 2 grades with a minimum of knots, the size of boards is 25×100 cm, length is from 6 meters, in some cases instead of boards use OSP sheets, plywood or chipboard sheets.
  • Hacksaw or chainsaw.
  • Devices for metal cutting, the grinder is not used.
  • Template for crates.
  • Foam and gun to the cylinder.
  • Hammer.
  • Electric drill.
  • Bolts with large nuts.
  • Staples
  • Nails on 150 mm.
  • Level of construction at 2 meters.
  • Construction roulette 6–12 meters.

Types of crates

There are several types of roof lathing depending on the type of roofing material:

  • solid crate;
  • sparse crate.

A solid crate is made mainly for a soft roof (for example, roofing felt), consisting of small elements, in some cases in order to give the inside a non-heated attic like a finished building. They make a crate from separate boards nailed, sometimes use materials like plywood, OSB panels and the like. The disadvantage of such crates in a large consumption of material. The advantage is that the crate is laid flat and therefore it is sufficiently easy to lay the roofing material on such a crate.

Sparse crate (with gaps between the boards or bars) is used when installing the roofing system, the roofing material of which will be slate, decking, metal tile and other similar materials.

Mounting crates

Consider the steps how to make a roof crate with your own hands:

  • After the truss system was erected above the building, the necessary roof measurements were made. So the diagonal of the slope of the difference in the length of the rope, stretched from the two diagonal ends of the roof should not exceed 2 cm. Excess of these indicators will complicate the installation of the batten and the mounting of the roof on the batten.
  • We put the vapor barrier, then the insulation of mineral wool or other materials, waterproofing on top with an insulating film. Mounting waterproofing guided by instructions for its use. The waterproofing is installed with an overlap of 10-20 cm. It is laid from top to bottom, fastening it to the rafter with a stapler. Bottom we leave a reserve of waterproofing of about 40-50 cm. On the rafters we nail the laths of the contra-grille, it is necessary to provide ventilation of the insulation system. This stage is performed in the case of a warmed roof.

Photo 5. Installation of waterproofing

  • To the bottom edge of the cornice, flush the first batten board horizontally, flush with the overhangs. The lower end of the waterproofing is produced on top of the lower edge of the batten. The main part of the waterproofing will remain under the crate. Carefully verify the level of the ratio of the board to the horizon.
  • Install the template obreshetki. This device is used to nail the horizontal boards of the batten at an equal distance between each other. Instead of a store template, it is easy to make it yourself from pieces of board. If the crate is made under a soft roof, then the crate is mounted end-to-end, provide for the possibility of deformation of the boards, so we solidly nail the crate onto two nails.
  • The installation of the batten is completed at the top of the roof. The crate is ready.

Below are examples of cracking the roof with your own hands for various types of roofing.

Photo 6. Crate under soft roof

Photo 7. Crate for roll materials

Photo 8. Crate for metal roofing

Photo 8. Crate for Ondulin

How to properly crate for different work options

The lathing is a lattice-type construction, installed for fixing the roof, facing material for walls or the floor. This construction element is used in cases where the installation of hydro and thermal insulation is required, as well as when the initial surface needs to be leveled. Depending on the attached materials, the lathing can be of different types.

Floor batten

Flooring boards may be laid directly on the cement screed, however, when using a batten, you can additionally install a waterproofing layer and a heat shield. For its manufacture will need the following:

  • reiki;
  • level;
  • perforator or powerful drill;
  • fixing hardware;
  • waterproofing material;
  • bars of different sizes.

How to make a crate for the floor? First of all, fit the insulating layer. The next layer is laid out a special hydro-barrier – a film that has an area larger than that of the floor. It is necessary that the edges of the film went a little on the walls. So that the corners do not interfere, they should be slightly cut.

The next step will be laying the first rail, which serves as the basis for the entire structure. It is usually installed near the wall and through the insulating layer is attached to the screed. Thus, the entire frame is fastened around the perimeter of the room.

After mounting the frame every 0.5 m at the same height from the floor surface are attached bars. The resulting errors in height differences are easily corrected with the help of pegs. Similarly, all the rails are assembled with the next layer of thermal insulation.

Wall casing

Fastening of wall paneling materials directly to the wall will be reliable only in the case of perfectly flat surfaces and corners. However, in practice, this option is almost impossible to meet, so the batten is used. The most common material is wooden slats.

The length of the rails used should be the same as the height of the wall. Section of a bar for an obreshetka of 50×60, 25×80 and 30×40 mm. The width of the slats for the convenience of getting the fastener in the center of the groove is selected twice as large as the gap between the fasteners.

The slats are installed over the entire surface at a distance of 40 cm. In places subject to increased loads, for example, on the leeward side, the interval is recommended to be halved.

Antiseptic treatment of the assembled structure will extend its service life, preventing the process of decay. Fire protection prevents the penetration of rodents and insects, it also has fire-fighting properties, and it is better to use it for country or country houses, often remaining for a long time without supervision.

Roof lathing

The quality of the roofing with a metal tile depends on how to make the batten correctly. Before starting work, you need to decide which of the two types of flooring will be used:

  • Solid. Bars with a section of 50×50 mm are laid close together, with a gap of not more than 10 mm. The size of the board used is 32×100 mm.
  • Lattice. Material consumption is significantly less, but installation work requires higher qualifications. In this case, the rafters must necessarily be covered with waterproofing.

The pitch between the slats is 300-350 mm, such an interval will make it possible to increase the reliability and appearance of the roof, securing the sheet of metal at the lower point of the wave. For the same purpose, the very first board with which the batten begins, is 15 mm wider than the others.

When installing the lathing, first of all, the barrier film is laid on the rafters.

Then from the ridge to the eaves lies a bar of 30×30 mm, attached to the rafters. After laid flooring. The ridge board is installed on two additional boards fixed on the rafters at a distance of 5 cm.

If the spacing between the rafters is more than 1 meter, boards of a thickness greater than 32 mm are used. In the weakest areas of the roof – the junction of the roof to the chimney and valley, as well as around the dormer windows, a continuous type lathing is used.

The quality of the roof, and as a result, the reliability and durability of the whole house, depends on the correct installation of the lathing for roofing. Mistakes made can often lead to the dismantling of the roofing elements, and the metal tile does not allow for reuse.

12/30/2013 at 12:12

Sources:, 1366_obreshetka-kryshi-svoimi-rukami /,

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