Untreated wooden flooring should not be left in the bathroom. It will begin to swell from contact with water, it can bend and begin to rot.
Laying tiles in the bathroom includes the following steps:
- inspection of the coating of wood and its assessment;
- remove existing varnish, as well as damaged items;
- eliminate base defects (irregularities, pits, chips);
- if the bathroom is above the ground floor, the floor should be reinforced with beams, otherwise the room will not withstand the load after lining;
- after elimination of defects, go over the entire surface with a grinding machine or clean it manually;
- if air voids are found under the base, fill them with expanded clay.
These were the preparatory moments. Now consider how to properly put tiles on the wooden floor of the bathroom:
- impose a layer of antiseptic on the entire prepared surface;
- we carry out a waterproofing (greasing by mastic). Apply a layer to the surface of the boards, and to the joints in the area of the walls.
What to put on the floor under the tile?
Everything is ready, you can lay tiles. Watch the video below on how to lay the tile on the wooden floor, and at the same time in the table see the options for preparing the facing surface:
Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor and how to do it
Porcelain and tile are traditionally considered the best flooring for toilets, hallways and bathtubs. In the absence of slabs, information on how to lay tiles on a wooden floor in rooms with high humidity is relevant.
This guide discusses options for black flooring and tiling of a grooved finish board.
Compatibility of construction and finishing materials
Self-laying tiles on wooden floor is dangerous mistakes. Home master should take into account the nuances:
- the easiest way to revet a rough floor of OSB / particleboard or plywood;
- It is forbidden to decorate with tiles a primary stackable grooved board, as it is re-tightened in order to avoid creaking and cracks after 4 to 12 months from the date of installation;
- the most reliable option is a screed on a wooden floor, which allows to provide a base with a higher strength index under a layer of porcelain stoneware than that of a lining and tile adhesive;
Screed on a wooden floor for laying porcelain.
The main problems of incompatibility of wood, tile glue and tile are the following:
- the operational life of plywood, sheet piling, chipboard and OSB is lower than that of tile, therefore the maintainability of the structure is very low;
- internal stresses in wood cause warping and other deformations;
- stiffness of the stiffened tiled glue and facings from porcelain stoneware / tile by default is higher than that of wood-containing slabs, dowel and edged boards;
- in floors of beams wooden black floor is practically the only structural solution;
- in the secondary housing stock wooden floors are made of logs over the slab, in this case, the structure should be simplified by disassembling the floorboards and logs, filling the tie for tiling.
Tile is glued to the wooden floor with special compounds of high plasticity. However, the developer does not receive a 100% guarantee in any case:
- wood can shrivel or warp, i.e., change linear or spatial dimensions;
- during the deflection of a less durable base, a thin layer of tile glue will crack or crack, tile will fly off.
To ensure the basic condition – the rigidity of the base of the floor is higher than that of the topcoat, several techniques are used for the specified operating conditions:
strengthening the existing structure – reducing the distance between the lags or increasing the thickness of the tongue, edged board, plywood, chipboard.
- the creation of a layer of intermediate – dry from double sheets GVL screed or self-leveling floor;
Adding beams to reinforce the floor.
The thickness of chipboard / OSB from 22 mm, plywood from 20 mm, edged boards from 25 mm, the pitch between lags 30 – 40 cm is recommended.
The technology of facing the wooden floor tiles
Rational options for how to lay tile on a wooden floor of different materials are different. The most difficult technique for sticking porcelain stoneware to the dowel, the simplest is a screed with a pouring floor over DSP sheets, which is not difficult to tile. It should be remembered that for the safety of adjacent rooms at the time of possible flooding, the height of the final coating should be higher, at least 2 cm.
The floor level in the bathroom should be 20 mm lower than in the corridor.
The conflict of wooden structures and ceramic cladding on top of them is caused by the following factors:
- on the one hand, wood easily absorbs moisture from the air, and vapor barrier films do not provide 100% protection guarantees, therefore, ventilated spaces are created inside the structures;
Holes for ventilation of a wooden floor.
on the other hand, the tile solves the problem of wet cleaning in bathrooms, protection against leakage of communications and moisture from the air, but prevents water from evaporating outside;
Therefore, the service life of bearing beams and wooden flooring is sharply reduced.
Tile on subfloor
If the project includes overlaps along the beams, a hem is attached to these supporting structures in the lower level. Insulating materials and insulation are laid on it as needed, then the rough floor is lined.
The budget option is the flooring of the edged board, but in order to lay the tile on top of the black floor, it is better to increase the construction budget, perform the black floor from slab materials (plywood, OSB, DSP). The number of seams will decrease, the stability of the geometry and the overall life of the structure will increase.
Due to the high humidity of the bathrooms, a dry screed as the basis for laying tiles on a wooden floor is not the best option:
- haydite sand is highly hygroscopic and cannot evaporate moisture accumulated through a waterproof lining (dangerous in the event of a leak);
- the design has a solid weight, respectively, greatly loads the beams of wooden floors.
However, the practice of operating such structures exists, so you need to know how to make it yourself. The technique consists of several operations:
- laying vapor barrier – film or membrane with an overlap of cloths of at least 15 cm, sealing the seams with adhesive tape;
- filling of expanded clay sand – a layer of 2 – 5 cm for leveling and ensuring the thermal insulation of the floor;
- alignment of bulk material – lighthouses are stacked in a single horizontal level, the excess sand is scraped off by the rule;
- laying sheets GVL – in two layers with the displacement of the joints at least 5 cm, fixing glue-fiber blocks to glue to each other and using self-tapping screws to the base through;
- laying tile – produced by standard technology.
Making dry screed.
Tip! To properly put the floor, you should consider the placement of plumbing, room geometry and tile format. The walls should adjoin either solid tile, or pieces of more than half of its format to ensure the normal interior of the bathroom.
Here in more detail about the dry screed: How to make a dry screed.
Bonding to a special mixture
Most of the leading manufacturers of dry mixes have special compositions of increased elasticity for decorating wooden bearing structures with tiles. The most popular products are:
- Lacrysil – packaged in red buckets;
- Kreps – Super modification;
- Litokol – Litoflex K81 or Superflex K77;
- Ceresite – a mixture of CM-17.
It is possible to lay tiles on two-component mixtures based on polyurethane resins Bon R770, Utsin MK-92, Stauf PUK 440 or Kiilto Slim. They possess high adhesion, both to the lower layer of wood, and to the upper ceramic tile. However, the life of these compounds is low, they should be diluted little by little in order to have time to develop a solution before setting.
Tip! It is not recommended to glue tiles with ordinary tile glue on wood, as it is intended solely for mineral bases.
The technology, how to lay tiles on a black floor, is as follows:
- seal of seams of plywood, chipboard, TsSP hard putty;
- applying a special tile adhesive to the base;
- leveling pastels with a notched trowel;
- tile laying using SVP systems or standard crosses.
Usually, one-piece cladding elements are mounted according to the layout scheme. The next day is trimming and stacking pieces. Then the joints are rubbed in and the baseboards are mounted, fastened to the walls.
Flatness and horizontal base leveling lags. Small defects are hidden by tiled glue. Additionally, it is not necessary to putty the surface of the black floor. You must first get rid of squeaks and replace beams / logs if necessary.
Unlike most of the wood-containing slabs from which the subfloor is made, the OSB is coated with wax. What provides additional costs for the developer – impregnation will have to be brushed with LBM, artificially increase the adhesion of the base with tile glue and reinforce this layer with a polymer mesh. Therefore you should choose DSP / particleboard or plywood.
Tile on a grooved board
The technology of decorating the tongue groove is very difficult due to the following nuances:
a flooring with a certain service life most often has an uneven plane, such as the floorboards bend with a “hump”;
at wear, occurrence of rot on lags there are creaks.
- it is not economically feasible to decorate a fresh flooring from a grooved board with tiles, since it will have to be tied off after several months of operation;
Therefore, in this particular case, it is recommended to lay tiles on a wooden floor after pre-leveling and strengthening the structure with a self-leveling floor.
Tip! A layer of self-leveling floor, glue and cladding will dramatically increase the structural loads on the wooden beams. It is highly desirable to make a new calculation for the deflection and bearing capacity of the structural elements according to the method of rigidly clamped single-span beams.
Auditing and strengthening
Before gluing a tile on a wooden floor, it is imperative to revise the supporting structures:
- add logs to reduce the distance between them and / or increase the thickness of the floorboards;
- eliminate the creaking, stretch the screws or add additional fasteners to the existing structure;
- if necessary, replace the vapor barrier and insulation materials;
- pull out a grooved board to eliminate gaps;
- remove the paintwork with a sander;
- process the tongue with an antiseptic or fire bioprotection (the composition also includes a flame retardant, which increases the fire resistance).
Initially, only the first, every fourth and last row of floorboards are attached to the logs. After tapping with screws, all the boards are fixed to the logs.
More information about laying the grooved board was mentioned here.
To align the plank flooring in a wooden house, low-cost modifications of the self-leveling floor on a cement base are used. They have self-leveling properties, which facilitates the work with these compounds. The main nuances of the technology are:
- damping layer – the perimeter of the walls to the height of the finish coating must be pasted over with tape;
- layer thickness – with height differences we place a minimum of 5 – 10 mm of solution at the top point;
- kneading – according to the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the specified water-cement ratio, the mixture is always added to the water;
- application – the solution is poured evenly around the perimeter of the room, additionally leveled with a squeegee;
- creating a uniform structure – the surface of the non-frozen bulk floor is rolled with a needle roller to exit the dissolved air.
Bulk floor on wooden overlap.
For walking on a liquid solution applied kraskosty with a needle sole.
Unlike a wet concrete screed, the minimum thickness of which is 3 cm, self-leveling floors can be leveled “to zero”. However, it is forbidden to separate the layers of hydro, vapor barrier films, noise insulation and insulation.
Regardless of whether the tile is laid on a wooden base or a screed, you should follow the standard cladding technology:
- the layout is from the middle and from the front door to the far wall, straight in rectangular and square rooms, diagonal, if the opposite walls are not parallel to each other;
- the application of glue is always on the surface of the base, and not on the tile; the solution is leveled with a notched trowel;
- consumables – the alignment systems of the SVP are much more convenient than traditional crosses, since by default they ensure flatness of the floor without steps.
Systems SVP improve the quality of flooring.
Tip! Floor plumbing is best to mount over the tile. This will reduce the amount of trimming, provide an even solid base, and allow you to keep the pattern of seams.
Since the height of the flooring in the bathrooms is lower than in adjacent rooms, the tile is laid close to the door frame. There is no interface with other cladding materials, do not need a threshold and plinth.
Thus, tiles in rooms with high humidity can be put independently, both on a wooden black floor, and on floorboards from a rabbeted board. In this case, you should follow the recommendations given by specialists to ensure maximum operating life.
Tip! If you need a master for repair, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work that needs to be done, and you will receive offers with prices from private craftsmen, repair teams and companies. You can see reviews about each of them and photos with examples of works. It is FREE and non-binding.
- Choosing the design of floor tiles in the kitchen
- How to lay tiles on the floor diagonally without errors
- How to put floor tiles on your own
- Ways to cut tile without tile cutter
- What are the criteria to choose floor tiles in the kitchen?
- How to prepare the floor for laying tiles
Sources: http://1poplitke.ru/ukladka/kak-polozhit-na-derevo.html, http://poplitku.ru/keramicheskaya/kak-polozhit-kafelnuyu-plitku-na-derevyannyj-pol-samostoyatelno/, http: //masterskayapola.ru/plitka/kak-polozhit-na-derevyannyj.html