The floor must be cleared of debris and metal particles that can break the delicate cloth.
First, using a level, you need to measure all the angles in the room, as this will affect the profile docking. As soon as the zero level is determined, you can begin to mount the profile rail on the wall with dowels or self-tapping screws. As a result, we get a room with a fixed profile around its perimeter.
Before installing the canvas room must be heated with a heat gun. It is necessary to ensure that the indoor temperature was around + 40 ° C. Only after that you can gradually unwind the film, making sure that it is not too close to the heat source. The material is removed from the packaging, not forgetting that it should be taken with clean hands.
At the stage of fastening the canvas should be heated to + 60 ° С. Installation of the tensioning fabric is made from the base angle in the room. After that, the angle that is opposite on the diagonal is fastened. After all of them are fixed, they proceed to fixing the sides.
In order to fix the material on straight walls, you can use the blade to work with stretch ceilings. In some places on the canvas may be stitches. Such areas are evenly distributed and secured with several locks.
In the process of fixation, it is imperative to ensure that creases, wrinkles, and all sorts of distortions are prevented. Mistakes must be immediately eliminated, and if they become noticeable too late, you can try to smooth them out with your hand, preheating the area with a heat gun.
A technological gap will necessarily form between the ceiling and the wall, since the profile has a certain thickness. To disguise it, a special ribbon is sold, which is produced in various colors. It can be selected individually, in tone to the walls and ceiling. Mounting it does not present any particular difficulties: it is simply pressed into the gap and carefully pressed with your fingers. An alternative to such a plug can be the installation of a decorative plinth.
Once the basic work with the stretch ceiling is completed, you can do the finishing touches. At this stage, the installation of spotlights, if they are provided. Decorative caps are fixed, the main task of which is to hide fasteners from the eyes.
If you plan to hang the chandelier on the ceiling, then you must provide a plastic ring, the outer diameter of which must be such that it is hidden under the decorative cover of the lamp. It is glued to the canvas, while the center of the ring should coincide with the point outlined for the fixture of the chandelier.
Further, at the request of the owner, the ceilings can be painted with acrylic paint. This creates the effect of a cloud, a wave, a starry sky, etc.
Important! During the whole work with the heat gun it is necessary to observe safety measures in order to avoid an explosion. To do this, use only serviceable gas cylinders with a valid service life. Before you start, you should check the reliability of the connections, the integrity of the hose and the absence of gas leakage.
How to insulate the ceiling with mineral wool – see the video:
As you can see, you can master the technology of working with mineral wool on your own. If all works are performed in accordance with the recommendations, you can enjoy the comfort and warmth in the room for many years.
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How to insulate the ceiling with mineral wool?
- Additional materials and necessary tools
- Stages of work (outdoor insulation)
- Work stages (internal warming)
To keep the heat in the house or in the apartment on the upper floors, the ceiling must be properly warmed. This will reduce the cost of heating the room. According to the laws of physics, the flow of warm air rises, and if the ceiling is not insulated, then the heat will leave the room. Not everyone knows how to insulate the ceiling correctly. Surely, many when such a problem appeared posed the question of the need to choose the material and the stages of work. The article will discuss how to warm the ceiling with mineral wool.
To keep the heat in the house or in the apartment on the upper floors, the ceiling must be properly insulated with mineral wool.
To properly insulate the ceiling, before starting work, you need to choose a method of insulation (there are three of them: internal insulation, external insulation and a combined one) and calculate the required amount of material.
This is necessary in order to not have to stop the insulation of the ceiling due to the purchase of the missing wool or waterproofing film. Or, conversely, spend money on extra material.
Thermal insulation of the ceiling can be of three types: internal insulation, external insulation and combined.
Calculate the required number of mineral wool to the ceiling can be based on SNiP 23-02-2003 “Thermal protection of buildings.” For each climate zone, the insulation will have its thickness. Usually it is in the range of 10-15 cm.
People confuse mineral wool with glass wool. A good feature of mineral wool is its fire safety, it does not support combustion and does not create smoke. In contrast, glass wool is considered dangerous.
Mineral wool is produced in rolls and mats. There is no fundamental difference. For example, if you have an attic roof ceiling, then for convenience it is better to use mats for mounting. They are good to warm the room.
Additional materials and necessary tools
In order to properly insulate the ceiling, in addition to the mineral wool will be needed:
- waterproofing film is a special film that passes water vapor and retains water;
- Paroizolyatsionny film does not let the vapor and water, protecting the mineral water from getting wet;
- fastenings with a wide plastic cap;
- profile hangers;
- glue for mineral wool (if you use internal insulation);
- counter rake;
- self-tapping screws.
These are the main additional materials. Their list may vary depending on the individual characteristics of the room.
For external insulation will need tools:
For internal warming it is necessary:
- sharp knife;
- scissors for metal or jigsaw;
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Stages of work (outdoor insulation)
- Vapor barrier. Work is done from the attic or directly from the roof. If it is an attic, then the vapor barrier film is correctly placed between the lags and on them so that there are no gaps left. Fastened with a construction stapler. If it is a roof, then the vapor barrier is placed between the rafters and on them. This stage should not be omitted in any case, since the film protects the mineral wool from vapors coming from the room.
- Thermal insulation. In our case, warming mineral wool. Insulation is cut with a sharp knife. Tightly fits between rafters or lag. If you want to insulate the slope, it is desirable to properly fix the insulation with a cord. To mount it, nails are driven into the rafters at a distance of about 15 cm.
- Waterproofing. Above to protect the mineral wool is laid waterproofing film. Properly laid, it does not allow the accidental precipitation to wet the insulation. Fastened to rafters with rails, to lags with a stapler.
- Roof or floor attic. When covering the upper layer, it is necessary to leave a gap between the waterproofing film and the roof of 2 cm. This is a place for draining of accidentally water or condensate. In the case when work is being done in the attic, floorboards are nailed on top of the waterproofing.
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Work stages (internal warming)
This type of insulation is used in cases where external insulation is not possible. For example, the top floor of a multistory apartment building.
- Thermal insulation. Proper fixing of mineral wool is carried out with the help of special glue for fixing mineral wool. Or laid between the frame, made of the profile, and attached with special fasteners with a wide plastic cap. The profile is attached to the ceiling with special hangers. For convenience, you need to use mini wool in mats. Instead of a metal profile, you can use the bar 50 to 50.
- Vapor barrier. Steam insulation film is attached using a stapler. It should be properly fastened so that there are no gaps between the canvases and at the joints of the ceiling with the wall. To do this, she must find a little on the neighboring pieces and on the walls of the room.
- Ceiling. On top of the vapor barrier closed the final material. For example, sheets of drywall.
In order to insulate the cold ceiling of the mineral wool in a combined way, it is necessary to apply the internal and external insulation simultaneously.
Exactly observing all stages of the work will help you to warm your mineral ceiling adequately.
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Warming the ceiling with mineral wool (mineral wool) – step by step instructions
The conditions of the Russian climate with a short summer and a long frosty winter create the need to take additional measures to warm the residential buildings. One of them is the mineral wool ceiling lining. This procedure will ultimately help not only to increase the period of heat preservation in rooms, but also to avoid the appearance of mold and fungus on the ceiling due to condensation, which is formed as a result of a direct collision of cold and warm air.
Thermal insulation of the mineral wool
Warming of the ceiling in residential buildings is recommended to be carried out using mineral wool, because it is non-toxic and environmentally friendly material, does not rot, is refractory, and insects and rodents cannot start there.
Most importantly, it has excellent heat and sound insulation qualities. Let out mineral wool in the form of rolls and plates. Also, when choosing, it is necessary to pay attention to the foiling of the mineral wool – it is good if one side of the roll or plate is covered with a layer of waterproofing foil. If there is no such layer, then, ideally, it is necessary to additionally purchase several rolls of foiled polyethylene foam. Instead, you can use a thick plastic film. Asgamine is suitable as vapor barrier. These materials are necessary for the preservation of mineral wool in dryness, because wetted insulation loses up to 40% of thermal insulation properties. In addition, you will need screws, fastenings with a wide plastic hat, counter-rail, glue for mineral wool, profile and suspensions for the profile, stationery knife, construction stapler, nails, screwdriver, hammer and tape measure.
The most common thickness of produced mineral layers is 10 and 5 cm. When insulating the ceiling, a layer of insulation 10 cm thick is enough, in particularly difficult cases – 15-20 cm. According to the way work is done, the insulation is divided into internal, external and combined.
Mineral Wool Varieties
The need for internal insulation of the ceiling is most typical for houses from several floors or with an attic, as well as for city apartments. The whole scope of work consists of the following stages:
- Ceiling lathing – can be made of sectional boards of 30-40 x 100-200 mm (the width of the board depends on the thickness of the insulation layer) or a metal profile. The batten is fixed to the ceiling with nails or screws, and the distance between adjacent parts should be about 50-60 cm, depending on the width of the mineral wool used.
A waterproofing layer is attached to the finished crate – strips of 50-60 cm wide are cut plus a tolerance of 5 cm on each side, i.e. the total width will be 60-70 cm. These strips are fixed with counter racks to the wooden crate or with screws to the profile.
Next, laying mineral wool and fixing it with an adhesive or a construction stapler to the ceiling, with a large thickness of the layer – to the crate.
Fixing mineral wool to the ceiling
The next layer is vapor barrier using glassine. It is mounted on a mini wool with a stapler.
The finished design is fixed transverse fixation of the counter or profile.
Fasten mineral wool to the ceiling
The procedure of internal warming is completed, the next stage is the installation on the sheathing of drywall, panels or stretch ceiling.
This method is used in private homes with attic space. Compared with the interior, this type of insulation is simpler to perform and takes much less time and effort. So:
- The entire area of the attic is covered with a layer of vapor-insulating material (glassine) with an overlap width of 5-10 cm, the junction points are glued with adhesive tape or tape.
- From boards of section 30-40 x 100-200 mm (width, as in the case of internal warming, depends on the thickness of the mineral wool layer), the crate is filled. The distance between adjacent beams is calculated according to the width of the roll or plates of insulation.
Making crate (grooves) for laying mineral wool
When external insulation of the ceiling on the vapor barrier is recommended laying a layer of foam thickness of 5 cm. Thanks to him, the level of vapor barrier increases significantly.
Laying foam layer
Mineral wool with a layer of 10-20 cm is laid on the foam plastic. It is important that there are no gaps between the layers of insulation and the beams of the batten.
The process of laying mineral wool in the grooves on the roof
If the mineral wool on one side is covered with foil, then the flooring is made so that this part is on top. In this case, an additional layer of waterproofing is not needed. If the mineral wool is ordinary, then it is carefully covered over with a layer of waterproofing material overlapped, the joints are glued with adhesive tape or tape and fix all the counter racks.
Next, the floor is made of wooden planks, chipboard or OSB.
Combined heat insulation
Combined insulation is the installation of mineral wool on the ceiling from the inside and from the attic. This method of insulation is typical for rooms in which it is necessary to maintain elevated temperatures for a long time – baths, saunas, steam rooms, etc.
In conclusion, a few words should be said about small tricks that will help to avoid numerous problems after the ceiling is insulated with mineral wool:
- · The fine fibers that make up mineral wool cause itching and irritation when exposed to open skin and in the respiratory tract. In order to avoid harm to health, it is necessary to use special clothes and a respirator.
- · When using a metal sheathing, it may later turn out that cold air continues to flow through the corners through the ceiling. To eliminate the occurrence of such a problem, after fixing the metal profile to the ceiling, all the corners are carefully filled with polyurethane foam.
- · Due to the error in the calculations, the thickness of the layer of mineral wool may exceed the width of the batten. In this case, additional wooden bars are nailed on the wooden beams. If the lathing of the metal profile – will have to replace the suspensions or reduce the layer of insulation.
- · When laying mineral wool it is strictly prohibited to tamping and pressing – this leads to a decrease in the number of air bubbles inside the insulation and, as a result, loss of thermal insulation properties.
- · In the places where spotlights are installed, it is necessary to provide space for air circulation in order to avoid subsequent problems with their constant burnout.
- · The most suitable for fixing the metal profile are self-tapping screws with a frequent section of hardened steel.
- · To determine the current state of the insulated ceiling, use an instrument such as a thermal imager. In the on state, the screen shows in red the passages of cold air.
- All of the above is designed to maximize ease and optimize the financial and physical costs of insulating the ceiling with mineral wool. However, for best results, you should consult a specialist. They will help to make the correct calculations of the required thickness of the insulation layer and, on this basis, to calculate the total amount of material and its cost. Often, these companies are directly cooperating with manufacturers of materials for insulation, which can result in additional savings on the acquisition.
Video – Thermal insulation of the ceiling with mineral wool
- Warming of the walls with mineral wool
- Warming of the frame house basalt wool
- Warming of a wooden house outside
- How to insulate a bath from the inside
Sources: http://tutknow.ru/building/uteplenie/7095-uteplenie-potolka-minvatoy.html, http://1popotolku.ru/uteplenie/minvatoj.html, http://stroyvopros.net/kryisha/uteplenie- potolka-minvatoy.html