The sides of the casing are pushed onto the spike as far as they will go, and the construction stapler checks how exactly each of the sides is installed vertically.
At last, the casing master is installed, who should fit snugly against the sides. The connection of the actor and the sidewalls is fixed with screws. The gap formed above the apernik is closed with a towel, from which the roller is formed and wrapped in a jute compactor.
Consider how to insert PVC windows in a wooden house. The frame without flaps is installed on the chips, so that there is a gap at the bottom and is aligned horizontally and vertically.
Then, at a distance of 30 cm from the corners of the frame, the casing is fastened using anchors. The holes in the casing make it so that as a result the dowel is flush with the frame. After installation, all gaps are filled with foam.
Filling the gaps with foam
Installation options for windows
When we insert windows into a wooden house, video, as an additional source of information, can help if the sequence of work described in the instructions does not fully fit the project of your house. For example, a video below will tell you about the situation when a cassade for windows in a wooden house is not needed. In addition, this video introduces another way to install the casing, which is called “in the mortgage bar.” This method differs from that described in the instructions “in the deck.”
The stages of the formation of the casing method “in the mortgage bar”:
- A 50 mm by 50 mm recess is cut under the wooden mortgage bar;
- Mortgage bar is installed in the prepared recess;
- Along the perimeter fit jute seal;
- The casing board is attached with screws to the mortgage bar.
Any of the methods of forming the casing allows you to get reliable protection from deformation of the window unit.
Cost of installation
How much does it cost to insert windows in a wooden house, taking into account the preparation of the opening, consider in the table.
Firm “Plastic Windows”
How to install a plastic window in a wooden house yourself
Plastic windows have gained popularity because of their performance. But can they be used in the construction and repair of wooden buildings? Of course, you can and should.
Installing plastic windows in a wooden house has a lot of differences and features. The process includes a number of preparatory manipulations, primarily related to the fact that the structure tends to squander over time.
Install a PVC window to a private house
Features of installation of PVC windows in a wooden house of a new or old building do not have a strong difference. In any case, experts recommend technology with the use of casing – time-tested, this technology allows to avoid deformation, regardless of the material from which it is made.
Installing a plastic window in a wooden house or cottage with your own hands will require from the performer some baggage of knowledge and skills. Of course, if there are none, then it is more expedient to contact specialists. The difficulty of self-installation of PVC systems in a wooden house lies in the fact that the frame is fastened using the thorn-groove mechanism. This design allows you to create such operating conditions in which the deformation and subsidence of wood does not have a direct impact on the glass.
According to statistics, a wooden house can shrink up to 30 cm. Depending on the material, due to the drying of wood for 1 year after the construction of the structure, the amount of shrinkage of the structure per meter height is:
- log: 40-60 mm;
- timber: 30-40 mm;
- glued timber 10-30 mm.
These factors should not be neglected, since the sinking of the structure already in the first year threatens to crush the window with the rims of the wall structure.
Shrinkage of the walls can occur after 5 years of operation at home under the influence of seasonal changes in the composition and humidity of the air. At the same time, installation of windows in old houses also implies casing.
So, consider the algorithm for installing PVC systems in wooden houses.
Stage number 1. Preparatory work
Before the start of installation, it is necessary to conduct a series of preparatory activities:
- dismantling the old window (if replacement occurs);
- cleaning the opening of dirt and debris;
- make the necessary measurements and calculations;
- drawing up a drawing and fixing the measurement parameters of the opening;
- alignment of the contours of the sides of the window opening, if the hole has an irregular shape;
- alignment is performed using putty or sealant;
- decide on the design and functionality (the number of valves, their size, which of them will open);
- decide on the manufacturer and color of the product.
Only after performing all the above-mentioned manipulations, we order a window from the manufacturer, taking into account individual wishes.
Stage number 2. Installation
Once the windows have been delivered and the necessary preliminary work has been carried out, you can proceed directly to the installation. Tools:
- construction level;
- anchor plates and bolts;
- key for adjusting windows;
- foam assembly;
- spray with water.
Installation is recommended to be paired with an assistant, since some manipulations cannot be done alone. In addition, a plastic double-glazed window – the design is dimensional and heavy – to keep it alone is not easy.
Important! Installation of a plastic window in a wooden house is not recommended during strong winds and at low temperatures (not lower than -10 degrees).
Cassade: purpose, types and design
A siege is a box-shaped construction that is made of three or four planks and is installed around the perimeter inside the opening.
The system allows you to install a plastic window yourself, so that the window is fixed regardless of the basic structure of the wall and has a floating character. The window system is fixed with the help of slots on the side, which are mounted on the spikes protruding from the end of the logs and timber.
To fix and seal the casing, only tow, lnovatin or fiber insulation is used. No way foam.
Attention! From above leave a gap at the rate of draft of wood.
Thus, the shrinkage of the walls of a wooden structure does not affect the window in any way and, moreover, does not damage it. Depending on the bindings, you can classify the casing in the following varieties:
- in thorn. This design is characterized by the presence of a spike, which is mounted on the side details of the casing, and the groove, which is located in the logs of the opening;
- in the mortgage bar. The basis of attachment is the bar, which is placed in the groove at the ends of the opening and passes through the casing pillars;
- in the deck. The spike is located at the ends of the logs of the window opening, but the groove is in the casing stands.
The box is a floating mechanism, excluding the deformation of the plastic window during operation, regardless of the type of installation of the casing.
Calculations should be performed with high accuracy, since even a minor error can lead to deformation of the window box or non-tightness of the structure. In addition, the correct installation is a guarantee of the quality of the plastic window itself.
How to make a okosyachku (casing)?
The design can be of two types: complex and simple. Simple kosyachka is a system described above, with bars and grooves. The complex construction is carried out somewhat differently: in the window opening, a comb is cut out, onto which a carriage with grooves is put on. This option is more reliable. When the walls shrink, the comb can slide and does not allow vertical deviations, eliminating pressure on the window box.
Cassade, as a rule, is made of timber. Using a chisel on a tree, a groove of 0.5 cm is beaten out in the center of the timber, and a spike is cut out from one end (0.5×0.5x, 25 cm). From the end of the log of the opening cut out a comb with spikes 0,5×0,5 cm. To do this, you can use a saw or a chisel.
Important! The marking of the ridge is an important point. Quality of a design depends on accuracy of a marking.
After the crest is ready, we proceed to the installation of the risers and the formation of the construction of the opening between them. The bars are set according to the level, taking into account the gaps on the shrinkage of the walls (1 cm on the sides and 0.5 cm on top). The frame of the bars strengthened with grooves with the main web of walls and pins between each other. The gaps left are compacted with tow or other fiber. That’s all, now you can proceed to the installation directly of the plastic frame. In more detail you can see the process in this video:
Stage number 3. Installation in the prepared opening
After the necessary preparatory work and installation okosyachki, you can begin to install the window.
Attention! Installing plastic windows in a wooden house without casing – the wrong option.
To begin with, we check the dimensions and location of the parallels, the gaps between the casing and the frame. The reserve for foaming should be: 4-5 cm above, 2-3 cm in width and height, 3-4 cm in the window sill area. Making sure that the stock is in compliance with these indicators, proceed directly to the installation of the plastic frame.
Fasten the window with special mounts, which are sold in any hardware store. They are metal plates with holes.
Tip! It is strongly recommended to use fixings, since fastening the frame with screws through the structure deprives the window of direct use, completely eliminating its tightness and thermal insulation.
Installation of plastic windows should be made by level. If you neglect this factor, then you risk getting a design with a slope, which significantly reduces the operational and aesthetic objectives of the window.
Tip! Before installing the window remove the sash. This facilitates the construction and makes it much easier to mount it in the opening.
After the window is secured in the opening, it is necessary to fill the gap with foam. In order to avoid displacement of the structure when foaming, lay the bars, which will maintain the position of the frame without deviations. After drying, do not forget to remove it.
Fixing the casing window is done with care. In this case, you must choose the correct location of the twisting screws. In no case can not fix the window in the area of the ridge!
That’s all, the process ends with a complete zapenivaniem opening. We put on the sash and give the foam to dry.
We presented the right way to install plastic windows in a wooden house. This process can cause difficulties, so if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.
However, installing a plastic window with your own hands is a significant savings. We offer to watch the video installation manual for the window do-it-yourself:
Discuss the article on the forum
Installation of windows in a wooden house
Installing windows in a wooden house is significantly different from installing windows in brick and stone houses. For example, apertures of buildings from a log and a bar, as a rule, have a quarter, but not from the inside, but from the outside.
But the most important difference between houses made of wood (does not apply to the frame-shield) is the ability to shrink as a result of drying of the material of the walls (logs, beams). And this moment is decisive in carrying out the installation of plastic windows in a wooden house, because if you install a window, as usual in a bare opening, it will inevitably be crushed and deformed by the shrinkage process.
It is believed that in the first two are the most active period of drying wood. But it is not. After the house has been built, the wall shrinks for decades. But that is not all. The tree not only gives up moisture, but also absorbs. Therefore, rigid mounting when installing windows in a wooden house is impossible in principle!
- Shrinkage in a log house – about 10 – 15 mm per one log D = 250-300 mm
- Shrinkage in the house of timber – about 7 – 10 mm for one beam with a section of 150×150 mm
- Glued laminated timber is unknown.
There are other ways to calculate the height of the shrinkage of the log houses as a percentage: about 10-15% of the original height. But in fact, the shrinkage of houses from timber and logs depends on many factors:
- from the material (log, rounded log, timber, glued timber);
- from the time of preparation of the material (winter or summer harvesting);
- from the time of day (in the morning, in the evening) Yes-Yes. Do not be surprised – and explored it!
- from where the forest grew (swamp, field); on the degree of tar and density of the tree;
- on the size of the material – as its length and thickness;
- moisture content of the material;
- on the size of the building; from construction technology (dowel, cutting type, etc.);
- from material mezhventsovogo insulation; from wood species;
- from the time of year when construction is underway.
The strongest shrinkage occurs in the log houses from the usual log, then the rounded log, the profiled bar, the bar, the glued bar are going to the smaller side.
Even if the house is not a dozen years, it is still necessary when installing windows in a wooden house to take into account the vertical movements of the walls as a result of an increase or decrease in humidity and air temperature at different times of the year.
Wooden house – Live
A wooden house is a constantly moving construction, compared with buildings made of stone and concrete. Therefore, the installation of windows in a wooden house is not made in the doorway itself, but in a special wooden box acting as a link between the window and the wall. They call this box differently: census, salary, deck, okosyachka, linden.
How is the okosyachka
As can be seen from the photo, the round-up is a regular window box, made of four, sometimes three (sides and top) thick planks, installed inside the opening.
The meaning of this design is that it is independent of the vertical movements of the wall and moves freely in the aperture, since it is not attached to the logs (bar) either with nails or screws, or with other fastening elements, but is held with the help of grooves in the side posts mounted on the spikes in the ends of the logs. Even the foam is not used to seal the gaps around the okosyachki – only tow, jute (lnovatin) and other soft insulation.
Please note: a large gap is specially left above the osyachyka, the size of which is designed for the maximum possible shrinkage of the logs (bar). During the first years after the construction of the house, this compensation gap will gradually decrease to the minimum, but the upper log (beam) of the opening, if properly calculated, will not press down and does not deform the tick. Thus, the shrinkage of the house will not affect the size and shape of the okosyachki, and, accordingly, the plastic window inside it will not be damaged.
The size of the gap shrinkage
If you decide to install windows in an old wooden house, which has already undergone a shrinkage process, then, when disassembling window blocks, you will surely notice: they are made on the same principle as the construction of the casing described here, i.e. not nailed to the logs of the doorway, but fixed in it with the help of a simple “tongue and groove” system on the sides.
This suggests that the technology of installing windows and doors in a wooden house in an okosyachku was invented a very long time ago, and is used with success to this day. We will not invent anything new and go the same way.
There are several ways to install okosyachki (more details on the link):
- T-shaped kosyachka – in the ends of the logs of the opening is a groove, it is laid in the T-shaped profile;
- U-shaped – the spike is cut at the ends of the opening logs, and the groove is made in the side posts of the casing).
We make both options, as they determine the maximum strength and stability of the opening, because the awl not only protects the window from wall shrinkage, but also ensures the stability of the wall in the place where the opening is sawed out.
In short, the sequence of our actions will be the following: we cut an opening in the wall, the dimensions of which slightly exceed the dimensions of the inserted plastic window;
We form a groove for the t-shaped okosyachki;
We form a spike for the p-shaped okosyachki;
We make parts okosyachki;
Install the okosyachku in the finished opening;
we install a window in a wooden house in the groove, aligning it flush with the front edge, (fasten with screws of such length that they do not pierce through the groove and not enter the log (timber);
blowing the foam between the frame of the plastic window and the eyebolt with foam, not forgetting about the waterproofing device (outside) and vapor barrier (inside – suitable for roughing under the skin;
install outer trim (fastened to the casing);
we make the interior of the window (window sill, slopes – not required for a fine mowing, as it is a sidewall and window sill).
Foam we use only inside okosyachki. The gaps around it are insulated with traditional flax fiber or jute canvas.
For the next 5 years (if the house is freshly built), we will have to periodically remove the platbands and gradually reduce the amount of insulation invested there. If this is not done, the upper parts can bend.
Even after complete shrinkage of the house, the gaps around the casing, in no case can not be sealed with foam.
Preparing a doorway for installing a window in a wooden house
We mark the window opening before cutting out with the help of the level, because the plastic window will be set strictly according to the level in all the planes, therefore the okosyachka must also be installed in the opening as precisely as possible initially.
The lower crown in the opening needs to be cut, so that you get a flat horizontal platform.
The dimensions of the opening are determined on the basis of the size of the plastic window, the thickness of the casing bars and the size of the necessary clearances.
All calculations are performed visually. Here is an example of a scheme for calculating the size of the opening for a rough T-shaped octagon:
Accordingly, we take a timber with a section of 100×150 mm and cut out a T-shaped profile.
Here is the calculation scheme for parts of the okosyachki n-type:
For the u-shaped okosyachki from solid timber, we cut out the u-shaped profile.
The size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) is not easy to determine, since the amount of shrinkage at home, as mentioned above, depends on many factors. If we, for example, roughly count, taking everything to the maximum, then for a window with a standard height of 1400 mm (plus the thickness of the crossbar casing, plus mounting gaps
245 mm) with a 15 percent shrinkage, the upper gap will be 24.5 cm – a huge hole, the height of which is likely to end up being too big.
To simplify the task and avoid mistakes, you should not puzzle over the GOSTs that regulate the shrinkage values of building materials of various tree species, comparing this with local climatic conditions, etc.
You can do it easier, namely:
• if you are building a new house, then install windows in it, start no earlier than one year after the construction of the log house to wait out the period of the most active shrinkage. Then, in the manufacture and installation of the okosyachki, the size of the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be safely made 60-50 mm for a log house, 50-40 mm for a bar-shaped and 40 mm for a house from a glued bar;
• if your house has defended for more than five years, then the shrinkage gap (H shrinkage) can be made minimal – 40 millimeters, only to compensate for possible seasonal changes in the geometric dimensions of the aperture;
So, we calculated the size of the opening, marked it out and cut it out. Now you need to cut a spike on the ends of the logs (timber) on the sides of the opening. The spike is also marked with a level in the center of the log (bar).
Thorn size we make 60 mm – width and 40 mm height.
The sides and bottom of the aperture are sheathed with lnovatin or jute with a stapler.
First, it is necessary to determine the width of the bars of the oosyachki: it must either be equal to the wall thickness, or be slightly larger, so that later, when installing the outer platbands, they (platbands) tightly lay on the octopus, and not the wall. Secondly, for the manufacture of okosyachki it is necessary to take a well-dried material, otherwise the assembled structure itself is deformed soon after drying.
First cut the top (apex) and bottom (sill) crossbars, making them 30 mm shorter than the width of the opening (excluding spikes). In the ends of the actor and the window sill, cut a groove for a spike 50 mm wide and 40 mm deep. Also, at the ends of both crossbars, we make small indentations of 10 mm each to dock the crossbars with the side posts.
We make the side racks with a height that exceeds the height of the frame of the plastic window by 70 mm. On the back sides of the racks, we use a circular saw to cut out a groove for a spike 50 mm wide and 40 mm deep.
The installation of the mowing in the opening starts with the lower crossbar (window sill). Then, the actor gets into the opening, under which we alternately insert the side racks, pushing them with grooves on the spikes. The okosyachki elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws and we coat joints with sealant. Gaps around the casing caulk usual tow. The upper shrinkage gap is capped with a roll made of tow, wrapped in lnovatin (jute). Now you can install the window.
Installing a window in a wooden house
We install a wooden or plastic window, aligning it with the front edge of the okosyachki or slightly digging into the house. To open a window inward to a third of the wall thickness, as is done in a panel or brick house, there is no need here due to the lower thermal conductivity of the wood (smaller freezing depth). Especially with a small thickness of the walls of a wooden house, deepening the window into the opening, we will have to cut down the narrow window sill.
If you calculated the dimensions of the aperture and okosyachki as described above, then the installation gaps around the window frame when installed in a wooden house should be 20 mm on each side, 20 mm on top and 30 mm on the bottom (we make the lower gap more so that we can later plastic window sill, whose thickness is 20 mm).
It is more convenient to fix the frame to the okosyachka using self-tapping screws of 6×100 or 6×120 mm in size, positioning them in the same way as when anchoring. We drill holes in the frame with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm. It is dangerous to use self-tapping screws with a length of more than 120 mm in that they will pass through the okosyachku and screw into the logs (timber), which is unacceptable.
Provided that all the preparatory work has been done using a level, the window frame should stand exactly on the okosyachka, i.e. the front edge of the okey must be parallel to the window plane, without noticeable distortions.
Before zapenivat the gap between the window and okosyachkoy, we must decide with what material we will waterproof the installation seam on the street side. As you know, the two main foes of the enemy are sunlight and water. If from the sun’s rays we can simply close the assembly seam with platbands or splices, then waterproofing is more difficult, because it must meet two basic conditions: do not allow water inside and at the same time prevent the moisture from escaping from the inside to the outside. Well, and, of course, waterproofing should be resistant to prolonged weathering.
All these conditions correspond to materials such as PSUL, waterproofing vapor-permeable tape and special sealant “STIZ-A”.
The STIZ-A sealant is a single-component, vapor-permeable white acrylic sealant for sealing the outer layer – it is characterized by good adhesion to the main building materials: plastic, concrete, polymer concrete, foam concrete, plaster, brick and wood, among other things.
It is also resistant to UV radiation, precipitation, temperature distortions and can be applied even at negative temperatures down to -20 degrees. The only disadvantage of this material is that it is difficult to find it in small containers, and buying a whole bucket makes sense when you install a lot of windows. If you choose “STIZ-A” as an external waterproofing, the procedure will be as follows: first we fill in the window, then, after complete drying, we cut the foam sticking out from the outside and already after this with a spatula we apply a sealant on the cut.
Waterproofing vapor-permeable tape (self-adhesive butyl rubber tape consisting of a vapor diffusion membrane with an adhesive sealant layer on one or both sides) is sold in rolls of different widths. In our case, suitable tape width of 70 mm. Using such tape as a waterproofing, properly orient it when gluing.
You can determine this by blowing into it from one side and the other (do not forget to remove the paper first). Since there is a membrane inside the tape, the air passage is possible only in one direction. The side with which the tape “blown” impossible, is the outer (street). The sequence of actions (tape first, then foam or foam first, then tape) does not matter much, but you need to take into account that the foam expands when it dries, not only pulls the tape with a bubble (it will interfere with the installation of platbands), but in general tear it away from a window or window.
Therefore, if you first of all stick the tape, then fasten the trims or rigid strips over it immediately, and only then zapenivayte. Or zapenivayte first, wait for the foam to dry, cut off the excess and on the same day stick the tape so as not to expose the foam cut to long-term weathering.
PSUL – pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (similar to foam rubber), impregnated with a special compound, due to which it is waterproofing and vapor-permeable. Comes in a compressed state, twisted into rollers.
If you stop your choice on the tape PSUL, then buy the one that expands more than 30 mm. It is necessary to glue the PSUL not on the outer side of the frame profile, but at the end near the front edge. This should be done after fixing the frame in the aperture, but before foaming. Of course, it is more convenient to paste over the PSUL frame before installation, when it lies on the floor, but then the installation will have to be done at an accelerated pace, because in a few minutes the tape will expand and interfere with work.
The assembly seam should be faded only after the PSUL has fully expanded and closed the assembly gap. But here the same problem is quite possible as with a waterproofing tape: the foam that expands on drying can force the PSUL out. You can avoid this by pressing the PSUL on the street side with platbands or flat plates.
On the inside, the foam should also not remain open to prevent moisture from entering the room from the air. For the device of internal vapor barrier, you can use a vapor barrier tape, which has already been described in the main section of this site, or use acrylic sealant SASILAST-11 (“STIZ-B”).
The vapor barrier tape is glued to the end of the frame before sealing with a thin adhesive strip. Immediately after sealing, the protective paper is removed from the wide adhesive strip, and the tape is glued to the okosyachka. While the foam under the tape has not hardened, it is advisable to immediately install the window sill and fasten the starting profile to the edges of the frame, otherwise later the “blown-up” tape will interfere with this.
Sazilast is applied on the hardened foam, more precisely, on its cut. In this case, it is not necessary to rush with the installation of window sills and start profile, as when using tape. Nothing can stop it later when it’s convenient.
The interior of the window in a wooden house (window sills, slopes) differs little from the finish in a panel or brick house. It is even a little simpler here: it is not necessary to drill holes for the installation of slopes – everything is fastened with screws in a tree (in the box). Also, there is no need to additionally warm the slopes from the inside with foam plastic or other material. To be safe, it is enough to install the inner surface of the casing with a narrow strip next to the assembly seam before installing the slopes. This will be enough, because the tree does not freeze through as deep as concrete or brick.
How to make slopes, already described on the pages of this site. I want to offer a slightly different method of finishing the window in a wooden house, or rather, to abandon the installation of a plastic window sill and any panels, and use the octagus instead. This method is not innovative, it has already been much talked about on the net. I want to share my experience, tell us how we do it.
Okosyachka as – windowsill and slopes
This method of installing a window in a wooden house allows you to save on slopes and window sills, gain time and achieve more, in my opinion, aesthetic effect, but this will require a good woodworking machine to cut the so-called reverse quarter exactly on the elements of the casing, installed plastic window.
What is the reverse quarter can be easily understood from the figure. This is the recess into which the window frame will be installed on the street side. Depth of a quarter – 25 mm. The width is made 3-5 mm more than the thickness of the frame, for example: 5-chamber VEKA has a profile thickness of 70 mm, therefore the width of the reverse quarter should be 73-75 mm. What is important is an accurate calculation of the sizes of the okey box and the window, the neat assembly of the okosyachki and the installation of the okosyachki in the opening exactly according to the level – the inner lumen should have the shape of a regular rectangle, and all faces of the outer edge should be located in the same plane without skewing. In order not to be mistaken in size, it is better to first make and install an octagus, and only then locally measure and order a plastic window.
Consider how the window will be installed in the casing with the reverse quarter.
Assume that the okey is already installed in the opening. The size of the plastic window is made so that it turns out to be a little larger than the “clearance” of the casing, or more precisely: 14 mm more in width and as much in height. From the inside, such a window will not enter the window, but then it will easily enter the opposite quarter from the street side. At the same time, the edges of the frame “hide” for a quarter of 7 mm on each side (it is no longer possible – the hinges of the valves will prevent), and around the frame there will be a mounting gap, which will later be filled with foam.
The frame is attached to the mowing screws, as already described above. To ensure a beautiful hermetic joining of the frame and casing from the side of the room, we use a D-shaped door seal. We glue it before installing the frame with the glue side on the edge of the quarter.
When fastening the frame, we firmly press it to the quarter, squeezing the seal, and twist the screws, fixing the window in this position. The installed window is foamed from the street. Then, after the foam dries, its surplus is cut off, the seam is sealed with a waterproofing tape or smeared with STIZ-A sealant, and the backing boards are installed.
Of course, since we are abandoning the interior decoration of the casing with any additional elements, we must improve it, i.e. give it a look corresponding to the interior design of the room.
First of all, you need to give the bottom bar the shape of a window sill, so that the inner edge protrudes slightly from the wall and is slightly wider than the opening.
Second, we make the “dawn” of the internal surfaces of the pillars and the actor, we abandon the primitive rectangular (in cross section) shape of these elements and cut a large chamfer, imitating the turn of the slopes.
Next, we process the inner surface of the casing elements. There are many possible options: texture, color – the choice is yours. You can simply polish the surface and varnish it. You can cover the tree with the stain of the desired color so that the surface of the casing is in harmony with the color of the window and / or the color of the walls.
There is also, in my opinion, an interesting, but more costly option – to make a surface brushing, i.e. process antique.
Artificial aging of wood for antiques is now very popular in various design styles. The essence of brushing technology is to remove the soft fibers from the surface of the wood using a metal brush (along the fibers), while the surface from smooth turns into a relief. After imparting a relief texture, the wood is cleaned of lint and fibers, then the final gloss is applied.
You can immediately coat the tree with lacquer, but the “aged” wood will look much more impressive after processing with the stain of the desired color. However, there is an even more spectacular method of painting – patching – creating a contrast between dark woody pores and a lighter surface.
This is achieved with the help of paint of the desired color: it covers the entire front surface of the casing, and then the top layer is removed with a cloth, until the paint has dried. The final stage of artificial aging is varnishing. It is applied in two or three layers. Then you can rub the surface with a soft cloth to give gloss.
Sources: http://derevvdoma.ru/kak-vstavit-okna-v-derevyannom-dome-pravilno-esli-dom-novyiy-instruktsiya-video-i-tsena.html, http://bouw.ru/article/ kak-ustanovity-plastikovoe-okno-v-derevyanniy-dom-samomu, http://okosjahka.ru/article/ustanovka-okon-v-derevyannom-dome.html