House of aerated concrete with their own hands

When laying blocks it is necessary to comply with the technology and construction parameters. Then you can not disassemble and redo the masonry – just break.

The basis of the successful construction of a house of aerated concrete – quality masonry. It is enough to follow a few of the most important rules for everything to turn out as it should.

  • we build the house, not sparing construction mix or glue;
  • the foundation and its material is selected depending on the type of terrain of the future house;
  • check the level of masonry level after each row;
  • it is important to preserve the blocking of blocks. That is, the middle of the block of the next row should fall on each vertical seam;
  • Grease the vertical seams most thoroughly, since it is in these places that gaps form most often after shrinkage.

Before laying the block, the previous row is smeared with glue or mortar. After the first piece of material has taken its position, the solution with the help of a spatula is laid out on the location of the next block and the adjacent “side” already laid. When the row is completely ready, it is measured using a level, and the detected irregularities are corrected: a solution is placed somewhere, a height is reduced somewhere by a rubber hammer.

Window and door openings

  House of aerated concrete with their own hands

Knot support truss construction on the wall of aerated concrete blocks using metal brackets (diagram).

In the walls of aerated concrete blocks above the openings you can use jumpers made of aerated concrete and heavy concrete with the obligatory use of effective insulation, for example, mineral wool. Aerated concrete jumpers allow to solve a number of important issues. In places of junction there are no cold bridges, good sound insulation is provided.

Fastening of wooden boxes of windows and doors in the outer walls is carried out with anchors or galvanized nails. Between the opening and the window or door frame, all the gaps with insulation with the installation of elastic gaskets are thoroughly filled (installation foam is the most effective and easiest way). The slopes of the openings plastered. The sub-window part of the outer wall is protected by a galvanized roof steel drain. From the aerated concrete, you can cut out various arches yourself, give them round shapes of openings and columns.

Facade decoration

The house of aerated concrete must be plastered on the inside and outside. This will protect the walls from destruction and will serve as the basis for the rough finish. Aerated concrete – a material with a fairly low thermal conductivity, however, the walls erected from it, may have cracks. In addition, cracks and cracks may appear during shrinking and operation. Therefore, interior decoration at the same time acquires a leading value.

It is recommended to use contour insulation in aerated concrete houses. As a rough finish you can use eurolining. This material is good because it fits on the crate and allows you not only to lay an insulator, but also to hide even the most significant errors in the laying of aerated concrete blocks. There are various ways of attaching to the wall of aerated concrete facing blocks: strip anchor; simple anchor; Z-anchor.

Ways of fastening cladding to the wall of aerated concrete blocks: a) a simple anchor; b) Z-anchor; c) strip anchor.

Exterior finish of the facade of the house should be started after sealing the seams and fixing all damage to the surface of the walls, after installing the roof and curtain rails above the entrances, the blind area around the house.

If the masonry of the exterior walls with jointing is made with high quality, then it may be necessary to plaster the surfaces of the walls to finish the facade. For this, it is desirable to use high-quality thin-layer plaster mixes with polymer additives. Compounds for plaster must be supplemented with water-retaining additives from the calculation. In rooms with wet conditions apply waterproofing plaster compositions.

It is better to paint the facade with special facade paints that do not interfere with the “breathing” of the blocks and have moisture-proof properties. For example, enamels on organic solvents or water-based paints.

In general, building a house of aerated concrete with your own hands is not such a difficult task. The main difficulty is the layout of the house and the choice of its location on the spot, durable bandaging of blocks, as well as internal and external decoration of the constructed dwelling.

Features of the construction of houses made of aerated material

Pros and cons of such cottages

Aerated concrete – a subtype of light cellular concrete with all the advantages and disadvantages. When building a residential house, these qualities must be assessed from all points of view.

In more detail about the advantages and disadvantages of aerated concrete houses will tell the video below:


  • Thermal insulation – indicators depending on the type of aerated concrete vary from 0.072 to 0.14 W / (m * s). Taking into account the norms on resistance to heat losses, which are pleasant in Russia in the middle lane, for example, the wall thickness should be 37.5 cm. However, much depends on the density of the selected material: for example, the thickness of the wall increases to 50 cm during the construction of structural gas concrete because its thermal insulation quality is lower.
  • Durability – from foam concrete autoclaved aerated concrete is the most durable. Due to the peculiarities of the manufacturing method, the micropores are distributed as evenly as possible here, which also makes it possible to evenly distribute the load. This makes it possible to measure thermal insulation and strength characteristics.
  • Aerated concrete has a rather high vapor permeability. that for a residential building is a definite plus. The walls “breathe” and to some extent remove moisture from the room.
  • Aerocrete has a perfect geometric shape. This allows you to put “bricks” not on the solution, but on glue. Thus, the absence of “cold bridges” is achieved, and the surface of the walls is even.
  • The material is easily processed by any mechanical methods: it can be cut, cut, make pens, grooves and embody unusual architectural forms.
  • Small weight even with a large thickness of the walls creates a much smaller load on the foundation for the house of aerated concrete than brick.
  • The timing of the construction of aerated concrete is minimal: the foundation is built the longest.
  • The cost of aerated concrete blocks is noticeably lower than the cost of concrete or brick.


The disadvantages of building their aerated concrete, unfortunately, are also quite significant.

  • Despite the relative ease of construction, the foundation will have to do tile or monolithic tape: aerated concrete has a low resistance to tensile loads. This means that as the foundation shrinks, the walls will be covered with cracks.
  • Aerated concrete absorbs moisture even more than ordinary foam concrete. here is an open porous structure. The material does not store moisture, and dries out over time, but to get rid of moisture it must be protected.
  • High vapor permeability limits the choice of exterior finish: suitable ventilated facade, cladding with siding with a ventilation gap, a special porous plaster. If you do not comply with these requirements, moisture will actually accumulate in the wall, which will lead to destruction.

How to build a house of aerated concrete with your own hands?

The construction of aerated concrete has its own characteristics. The technology itself is simple masonry – the usual brick with ligation. However, due to insufficient strength, reinforcement is mandatory for the structure. So, consider the main stages of building a house of aerated concrete.

About the construction of houses from aerated concrete do-it-yourself tell this video:

First of all, they lay the foundation – slab or ribbon. If the building is supposed to be above three floors, the foundation should be slab. This is a very material and labor intensive basis, but, fortunately, the foundation here is shallow.

  1. A trench or a foundation pit is dug under the foundation, the bottom is covered with sand by 20 cm, the sand is moistened and compacted.
  2. Formwork is installed – usually from boards or plywood. The height of the foundation above the ground is 30–40 cm.
  3. The foundation is poured with heavy concrete in layers – no more than 15 cm. Reinforcement is performed twice or three times: for this, the framework is connected from rods with a diameter of 12 mm in diameter. If a blind area is intended, then one of such frames also captures the blind area.
  4. Concrete is compacted with bayonet or vibro-nozzles.

Further construction is possible only after the setting of concrete and the achievement of design strength. At the same time the formwork is removed.

  1. Cut-off waterproofing is arranged – usually 2 layers of roofing felt are laid on the foundation.
  2. The first row is placed on the cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1: 3. Special attention is paid to alignment: masonry mortar allows to achieve precise horizontal position. The first row is necessarily reinforced: for this, two rows of rods with a diameter of at least 8 cm are placed in the masonry layer.

The wall thickness is 35–40 cm, the distance of the reinforcement bar from the edge of the block is 6 cm. If the masonry thickness is 20 cm, it allows for reinforcement with a single rod.

  1. The following rows are recommended to lay on a special glue. The ideal geometrical dimensions of the gas blocks allow a very accurate tight fit. The adhesive layer, in contrast to the masonry mortar, is much thinner – 0.7 cm, which further does not allow the formation of “cold bridges”. Glue is applied to the clean surface with a trowel and evens with a spatula-comb.
  2. Every 3 or 4 rows are reinforced. Since the layer of glue is too thin, for this purpose, shafts are made in gas blocks – 12 mm wide. They put reinforcement in them and put glue.
  3. In addition, it is necessary to reinforce the row under the window opening – the width of the opening plus 90 cm, and the points of support of the jumpers above the windows and doors.
  4. In places where the thickness or height of the walls changes, on the cross sections of long walls and the like, expansion joints are arranged. Aerated concrete does not work on bending, and such gaps allow to partially compensate for the load. The seams are sealed with mineral wool, polyethylene, and treated with a sealant.
  5. The lintels above the openings are made of U-shaped blocks. They are laid on a width equal to the width of the opening plus 90 cm, reinforcements are placed inside – 2–3 layers and cast with concrete. The same design can be made from ordinary board and blocks, but in this case the blocks will have to be cut to the width.
  6. Be sure to arrange armored interfloor or under the roof. In the simplest case, formwork is constructed for it, fittings are laid in at least two rows and poured with concrete of the same strength as the foundation.

If we are talking about the roof, then armored studs are fastened to fasten the power plate.

Overlap and interior finish

  1. Interfloor overlap is constructed of concrete monolithic slabs, monolithic slabs of cellular concrete or lightweight reinforced concrete beams filled with T-shaped blocks of aerated concrete. It depends on the features of the project.
  2. Floors can be made of aerated concrete or gas concrete. However, they do so rarely, since in practice it is much faster and more profitable to warm the floor with foam plastic, since foam is a better heat insulator than any cellular concrete.
  3. Finishing a building of aerated concrete is required, and you must first finish inside and then outside. The material absorbs moisture equally and, if you start finishing from the inside, it will not allow moisture to accumulate.
  • Practically any material is suitable for interior decoration, since its vapor permeability must be lower than that of aerated concrete, and this is easy to do.
  • For exterior trim, special porous plaster is optimal. A good option is a ventilated facade, although it is more difficult to arrange it.

About how much it costs to build a house of aerated concrete, and what is the price for services of this type, read on.

The following video will also help novice builders in building a house of aerated concrete:

Projects and calculation of estimates

If the future owner of the building is not a professional builder, the design stage should be entrusted to specialists. The cost of mistakes is too high here, and in fact in a residential area it is necessary to provide not only the box and partitions, but also the installation of water supply, sewage, electricity, gas and so on. Calculate yourself here you can only approximate the amount of materials.

Often, construction companies develop projects for free, provided that it is their responsibility to implement them. This does not apply to complex projects. Many of them offer a large number of turnkey projects of the most varied configuration, area and price.

The cost of publication depends on a lot of factors.

  • A modest one-storey building with an area of ​​50 sq. M. m. is worth 1250000-1450000 p.
  • Single-storey building with an area of ​​200 square meters. m. with terrace –3800000 p.
  • A two-story building will cost no less than 2 million rubles. with an area of ​​130 square meters. m
  • Two-storey cottage in the style of constructivism with an area of ​​500 square meters. m. “pull” 5 million p. and higher.

Projects of houses from a gas concrete

The project of the house of aerated concrete – 1 Project of the house from a gas concrete – 2 The project of the house of aerated concrete – 3 The project of the house of aerated concrete – 4 The project of the house of aerated concrete – 5

Reviews of the owners of such buildings

  • Dmitry, 39 years old, Orenburg region “The house, two-storey, built 5 years ago. As a result of my construction, I can say: the gas block should be held on the platform for about a month. For finishing you need to use only special plaster and reinforce it with fiberglass canvas – it perfectly masks the cracks. It is impossible to get rid of the cracks themselves, but it is considered normal if they cover about a quarter of the wall area. Good plaster covers them completely. ”
  • Mikhail, 36 years old, Chelyabinsk region “We built the house for two years: we had to preserve the construction due to the sudden onset of autumn – we did not even have time to raise the walls under the roof. Covered aerated with universal plaster and covered with film. The plaster does not protect the material, and the film was broken during the winter – it was necessary to visit the construction site. In general, in the spring the box was damp, and we had to wait a month and a half while the aerated concrete dried. But then the trouble ended. The cracks in the seam were somehow not perceived. I finished it with plaster, and I treated it with water repellent under the plaster ”.
  • Sergey, 28 years old, Nizhny Novgorod: “The company built the house, I just watched the work. Aerocrete laid on the glue, inside and outside trimmed with plaster, strip foundation. The house has already wintered twice, no complaints. ”
  • Vladimir, 48 years old, Moscow region: “I built a cottage out of aerated concrete with my brother. The building is one-story, we use it almost all year round, so we have a boiler here. The building is small, so did it yourself. Cracks appeared after the winter, but the dacha also stood without finishing, only the following year they plastered it. ”

What can you save?

Aerated concrete itself is considered a budget material, so this construction is popular. However, there are several other factors that can reduce the cost of the project.

  • Residential building requires all communications. It is obvious that on the site where such infrastructure is already developed, the cost of connection will be much less than the entire range of activities required for the construction of communications.
  • You can save on the price of the aerated concrete, waiting for seasonal discounts. Purchased bulk material from one supplier is also cheaper.
  • It is more profitable to buy the required lumber in bulk, all at once.
  • The work of the artels, of course, is cheaper than contacting a construction company. In practice, this issue is solved by the reputation of both the construction cooperative and the company.

What can not be saved, it is on the foundation: aerated concrete very poorly tolerates base movement, therefore, the best option here is a slab foundation, or, in extreme cases, a strip foundation.

Aerated concrete is a popular material for private construction. Affordable cost, good thermal insulation quality and low weight of the blocks are excellent qualities in the construction of cottages and small houses.

StroyRes.NET is an online magazine about building materials. Here you will find their description and physicochemical properties. We talk about applications with practical lessons, as well as the issues of production, delivery and storage of materials.

House of aerated concrete with their own hands.

Modern low-rise construction is difficult to imagine without the use of materials from cellular concrete, especially without a bright representative of this family – aerated concrete.

Often, future novice developers confuse it with gas silicate and foam concrete, but, despite the obvious similarities, there are differences between them. Therefore, if you decide to build a house of aerated concrete with your own hands, you should learn more about its performance characteristics and the features of working with it.

What you need to know before building a house of aerated concrete?

Aerated concrete is produced by autoclave and non-autoclave methods from sand, cement, lime and some other components, from which aluminum powder ( paste or slurry ) should be distinguished. It acts as a catalyst for the reaction, as a result of which oxygen is released and, accordingly, the characteristic porous structure of the material is formed.

It should be borne in mind that the production method also determines some properties of the material: autoclaved aerated concrete is stronger and has a lower thermal conductivity. Made by the usual method is more moisture-resistant, although this fact is rather arbitrary, since aerated concrete, due to its porous structure, is a highly hygroscopic material.

The main difference between foam concrete and aerated concrete is in the method of forming a porous structure: in the first case it is a consequence of the action of a special substance – a frother, as a result of which all pores have a closed shape, and in the second, as already mentioned, chemical reaction and pores are open in this case.

But in order to easily distinguish these two materials on the market, one needs to know that foam concrete has a slightly grayish tint, and aerated concrete blinds its whiteness.

Buying errors can have serious consequences, since these two materials, despite the similarities, differ in many of their performance characteristics.

About shapes and sizes

According to GOST 31360-2007, aerated concrete products should have the following linear dimensions: 625 × 500 × 500 mm. But on the construction market, the material is represented by several types of products: in the form of a regular parallelepiped with a smooth surface of the faces or with the presence of a special groove-ridge connection, HH, and U-shaped forms.

It is important to take into account that the size of aerated concrete blocks for load-bearing walls, internal partitions can vary greatly from different manufacturers who produce their products according to specifications, and vary within fairly wide limits.

In some cases, you can even order the production of aerated concrete to individual sizes.

To date, the most popular are the following block sizes:

  • 625x300x250 mm – for exterior walls;
  • 600 × 75 (150) x250 (200) mm – for internal partitions;
  • 500 × 250 (up to 400) h200 (250) – for U-shaped products.

Main operational and technical characteristics of aerated concrete blocks

When choosing aerated concrete as a material for the home, developers are necessarily guided not only by its low cost and ease of construction, but, above all, its characteristics and properties.

The first thing you should pay attention to is the labeling of the product. According to which you can get information about the density of the material, denoted by an alphanumeric value, for example, D500 indicates the specific gravity of 1 m 3 of the product.

The choice of blocks for specific purposes depends on the density parameter, for example, a material with a density of D400 or more is intended for the construction of load-bearing walls, it has acceptable thermal conductivity values. But in those cases when the issue of heat conservation comes to the fore, and the high bearing capacity does not have a prevailing value, one should choose blocks marked from D200 to D500.

Its strength also depends on the density of the material, which, however, is not very high, for example, for running D500 aerated concrete, it is only 4 MPa. but, since these products are used for the construction of low-rise objects, it is quite enough, but subject to the mandatory horizontal reinforcement of masonry.

Aerated concrete – material with:

  • low thermal conductivity. so that even a small thickness of the walls of aerated concrete copes well with the issue of maintaining heat inside the room;
  • satisfactory noise and sound insulation properties;
  • relatively moisture resistant. subject to the implementation of effective waterproofing masonry from the foundation and wall decoration;
  • vapor permeable. but it should be borne in mind that the denser the gas concrete, the lower this indicator;
  • frost resistant able to withstand from 25 to 50 cycles;
  • fireproof and fire resistant;
  • ecologically safe and inert to various microorganisms.

The durability of aerated concrete averages 30-50 years guaranteed by the manufacturer. but with reliable external protection and preventive measures to prevent them from absorbing moisture – this period can be extended to 70-80 years.

Building a house of aerated concrete, video:

House of aerated concrete pros and cons: how not to be mistaken with the choice

Mankind, in the history of its existence, having created many new building materials, did not invent the ideal.

Therefore, if, for example, to “walk” across the expanses of the Internet, then the feedback from homeowners of aerated concrete houses differs dramatically from each other: from complete admiration and satisfaction, to the most terrible regret. Why is this happening – the answer is obvious. Having admired the material values ​​from the beginning, the future builders of their homes completely ignored their weak or vulnerable spots and properties.

So, aerated material:

  • durable enough;
  • inexpensive;
  • has a large linear dimensions, which accelerates the construction process, while at the same time low weight;
  • has a low thermal conductivity – so you can save on insulation;
  • the optimal life cycle of buildings from it, reaching, on average, half a century;
  • safe for humans. as it is made from natural raw materials.

Next, considering the pros and cons of gas blocks. should carefully pay attention to its conditional deficiencies and try to find a way to level them.

Obvious minuses gazoblokov there are:

  • material fragility;
  • high hygroscopicity. due to the porous structure, which simultaneously provides excellent thermal insulation properties;
  • problem of cracking. as a result of low compressibility, but the device of a reliable and durable base on the house of aerated concrete almost completely solves this issue;
  • the need for mandatory finishing.

Some difficulties arise with the mounting of hanging elements and structures on the walls, but if you use a dowel for aerated concrete – the problem is solved.

Construction of houses from aerated concrete: the main stages and features

Building a house with your own hands from aerated concrete blocks is quite easy, especially considering the exact geometry of the material and its dimensions. But in order to avoid mistakes, one should get acquainted with the subtleties of working with aerated concrete in advance and not be affected by stereotypes.

Foundation building

The weight of aerated concrete masonry, of course, is incomparable with the brickwork, but this does not mean that the reliability of the foundation can be neglected.

Although, it is worth noting that the shallow-foundation for a house of aerated concrete is a fairly common phenomenon, but its small height does not negate its reliability and durability.

High requirements for the reliability of the foundation are due to the fact that aerated concrete has low compression performance, that is, it is not capable of withstanding bending loads. This means that problems with the foundation will lead to cracking of the blocks.

After the compulsory planning work has been carried out and a project has been drawn up or a house plan, you can proceed to the construction of the foundation, which can be:

The latter option is used in exceptional cases related primarily to the complex geological situation of the site, since its cost is very high, which negates all the savings from using aerated concrete as a building material.

Pillar foundation

The columnar foundation is the best option, but only if the underground level is not foreseen or the house is being built on complex, crusty soils or in harsh climates — in this case, the so-called TISE foundation will be an acceptable option. representing the column base in symbiosis with a ground monolithic tape.

The columns for this type of foundation must necessarily be located at all angles formed by the bearing walls, as well as directly below them if their length exceeds 3 m. To impart rigidity to such a structure, a special element is arranged, like a grillage. representing the strapping or jumper, which is also a support for the basement of the house.

The device of the column base is quite simple:

  • according to the plan plotted;
  • excavated by hand or with the involvement of special equipment wells of the required diameter and at a depth below the level of soil freezing;
  • cushion of gravel or gravel;
  • the next stage is the immersion of the pipe and the installation of an arm cage in it;
  • pouring concrete.

Strip foundation

This type of foundation is very diverse, but it is recommended to arrange a monolithic option for aerated concrete houses. not a prefab. More information about the device of such a foundation, see here.

For his device, you must first prepare a trench of the estimated depth along the perimeter of the building and under all bearing walls and in the end – you should get a closed loop.

For private housing, especially if the work is carried out on their own, this type of foundation is the most optimal both in labor costs and cost. In addition, all operations can be done without the involvement of special equipment.

A sand and gravel cushion is placed in the prepared trenches, which provides the necessary drainage of groundwater and their removal from the structure, a removable formwork is installed, for which even improvised materials can be used and the cement milk is poured, a very liquid solution, and after it is dried, the reinforcement cage is installed.

The next stage – pouring concrete. which can be made right on the construction site. But given the relatively large amount of the required solution, as well as the requirements of compliance with the continuity of the technological process, it is more rational to order its production at a concrete plant with delivery to the site by special transport.

After the foundation has gained the necessary strength, that is, after at least 2, maximum – 4 weeks. You can proceed to the construction of masonry bearing walls. But before it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing, which is most often used mastic and roofing material.

It will serve as a protective barrier between the foundation of the house and its walls to prevent the infiltration of underground moisture into the aerated concrete, thus saving it from destruction and ensuring its durability.

This operation is relevant not only for strip foundations, but also for other types.

Factors affecting the choice of foundation type

It should be noted once again that the technology of building a house of aerated concrete blocks implies the construction of a solid foundation for it, therefore, the choice of its type should be approached responsibly and be guided by the following factors, specified in the order of their importance:

  1. type and condition of the soil;
  2. the presence of an underground level;
  3. number of floors of the building;
  4. labor costs;
  5. cost;
  6. the need to attract special equipment.

For example, the cheapest option is a column base. It may be more laborious than tape, but is suitable for difficult soils.

Reliable monolithic plate – too expensive and for its device without the involvement of special equipment can not cope.

There is no single universal solution, so every developer has to decide this question independently which foundation is better for a gas concrete house. based on objective factors and their financial capabilities.

Building a box at home

After the foundation is ready, the construction of the bearing walls of the house, the so-called box, begins.

It should be noted that the laying of aerated concrete for this has some features and one intractable question: what to use masonry mortar or special glue.

Both variants have supporters, including among professional builders. But given that the use of glue allows you to perform thin seams, no more than 2-5 mm versus 2-3 cm when using traditional cement mortar, this provides the best heat-shielding characteristics for the walls, as well as more even and accurate joining of blocks, for beginners – this the most correct choice.

Laying the first row

Even if the decision was made to lay the walls of aerated concrete using a special adhesive mixture, the first row must be laid on a cement-sand mortar. This is necessary in order to accurately align it horizontally due to the thickness of the seam.

In the future, this greatly simplifies the work, especially in terms of adjusting the wall both horizontally, using a water level, and vertically, using a plumb line.

Start laying from the highest angle. If you do the opposite, then at best you will have to cut off part of the row mechanically, thereby aligning it, and at worst, you will have to do everything anew, since it is not possible to ensure that the rows are horizontal from the start.

Particular attention should be paid to the execution of angles, which must necessarily be straight, unless otherwise provided by the project. For this, the principle of diagonals is used. alternately changing the projection, you can detect the error and fix it in time.

To adjust the gas blocks, a special rubber hammer is used, which does not damage the product, but allows you to easily, if necessary, slightly change its position before grabbing the mortar.

After the first row has been completely laid, it is necessary to clean the surface of excess mortar and dust using a brush and grinding the surface. It should be noted that this operation must be performed every time after the completion of the next level.

Second and other rows

Further work can be done with the use of glue, which even a novice will allow them to cope with their work much faster. Since the mixture is much easier to prepare than the solution, but it is worth considering its setting time and its speed of work.

With the help of a notched trowel, glue is applied on the prepared surface of the gas-blocks of the first row and a second-row block is installed. Work should also start from the corners, but be sure to follow the rule of dressing, that is, to lay the new row with an offset to the previous one. In those places where the installation of a solid block is not possible, it is necessary to make an additional element using a hacksaw or a “grinder”.

In order to give greater strength to the building, it is necessary to reinforce aerated concrete blocks. which is usually done in 2–3 rows. But if a window opening is provided, then under it, in the previous row, a separate reinforcement should be made with an approach of 30–40 cm in both directions.

Armature should be laid in specially cracked parallel grooves for which you can make a wall chaser for aerated concrete with your own hands from scrap materials or purchase a professional one.

Laying aerated concrete blocks with their own hands, video:

Window and door openings

Window openings in the house of the gas blocks can be done in two ways:

  1. arrange immediately, as the door;
  2. cut out after completing the laying of the box.

The second option is simpler, but the first is more economical, since the cut parts of the blocks are unlikely to be used and they simply have to be disposed of. And after the laying height has reached the upper level of a window or door opening, it is necessary to arrange and strengthen them correctly. For this , jumpers are arranged above the windows in the house of aerated concrete. which can be made in several ways:

  • use special U-shaped blocks. in which to pour the cement mortar;
  • to make them from blocks – for this, products up to 100 mm thick will fit, which are installed in two rows and between them reinforcement is first carried out, and then the solution is poured;
  • use traditional reinforced concrete products;
  • make them from the same blocks. from which the walls are laid: pierce three parallel grooves, lay the reinforcement and fill with mortar. But it is important to bear in mind that they should be laid down by reinforcement down towards the opening.

If at the independent construction of the house there are difficulties, then you can attract specialists, especially since the cost of laying aerated concrete per cube is not so high, but you can finish the work much faster.

As an option, professionals can be attracted to perform specific works that are complex or require special knowledge.

Armopoyas and device overlappings

As a rule, after installing window lintels or laying another one or two rows of gas blocks, you can begin to manufacture armored belt, the main function of which is to impart and retain the integrity of the entire structure.

This will require concrete or cement-sand mortar, but you must first prepare the formwork: removable or non-removable. In the second case, aerated concrete blocks 100 mm wide will be needed, between which reinforcement is laid and filled with a solution.

If a second floor or an attic is provided, then you need to take care of installing special studs that are simply embedded in the concrete. They will also be required in order to mount the power plate to aerated concrete without armored belt. in this case, they must be threaded, which will greatly facilitate their installation both to the wall and to the base of the roof.

After this stage of work is completed, you can proceed to the installation of the overlap of the first floor, which can be performed using different materials. But most often used wooden floors in the house of aerated concrete. which, unlike reinforced concrete, is much lighter and does not create an additional load on the supporting structures.

An overlap of wood beams in a gas concrete house should be fixed on the armored belt; for this, spurs should be provided for in it, taking into account that the minimum bearing should not be less than 25 cm.

You can also make a monolithic overlap, but this is a more time consuming and expensive option or use special metal guides designed for laying gas blocks on them with a thickness of 100 to 150 mm.

Features mounting roof

After you have completed the laying of the walls of the house, you need to do the device roof. But before that you should find out how the mauerlat is attached to the wall of aerated concrete. which provide it with the necessary reliability and stability. It is also important to take into account the hygroscopicity of the material and in no case leave the box at home without protection.

The roof for a house of aerated concrete can have the most diverse forms: single, gable, multi-slope, velm, mansard, etc. – this is not a matter of principle and is determined by the functional purpose of the structure and architectural features of the house. The important thing is to properly perform the roofing pie. which must consist of the following layers:

  • waterproofing;
  • vapor barrier;
  • thermal insulation.

If the under-roof space is used as a living space, the variant is an attic, then you should definitely consider sound insulation. And as the top roofing there are no special restrictions – it all depends on the aesthetic taste of the customer, but it is not recommended to choose materials that have a high weight, in order not to increase the load on the supporting structures of the house.

House of aerated concrete with their own hands, video:

The house is built – you can start finishing

What should be the exterior of the house of aerated concrete is not so important, the main thing – it should be and should be done immediately after the construction of the house and the completion of shrinkage processes, which, taking into account the weight of the material, take a little time.

The presence of facade decoration is not only a decoration of the house, but also a reliable protection of the walls and, above all, from precipitation, which can significantly reduce its strength, as well as shorten its service life.

There are no restrictions on the choice of materials, but weak surface adhesion should be considered. therefore, for example, plastering of walls of aerated concrete indoors can be performed with gypsum-based compositions, but this option is not suitable for facade work, but first the surface should be treated with special primer compositions. But more often, in this case, the plaster of the facade of the house of aerated concrete is carried out according to the “wet facade” technology.

In those cases when additional warming is required, you can use the technology of hinged facades or perform house lining with bricks, but in this case it is necessary to provide a 3-5 cm gap and special products for ventilation of the structure and to preserve vapor permeability of the walls.

But what plastering aerated concrete inside the house depends on the design decisions of the interior, the tastes of the owners and financial possibilities. But, as mentioned above, preference should be given to mixtures not on cement, but on the basis of gypsum – the material “native” for aerated concrete.

Be sure to vote:

What is better than foam or aerated?

Sources:,, http: // dimdom. com / dom-iz-gazobetona-svoimi-rukami-fundament-otzyvy.html

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