Frame house building with their own hands

  Frame house building with their own hands

At this stage, you need to build a communications system and arrange ventilation. After that, all the walls are sheathed with two layers of drywall.

Outside the house can be sheathed with siding, block house. You can make a plaster on the reinforcing mesh, using special putty. Interior decoration is no different from the improvement of ordinary apartments and houses.

The construction of a frame house can be completed in one season, without waiting for its shrinkage. Building a house with this technology is currently the most economical option.

Frame house do it yourself: step by step instructions

Step-by-step instructions for building a frame house with your own hands from A to Z:

The construction of a frame house is a long-term business and requires strategic thinking over many things in advance, in stages. It is very important to comply with the construction technology developed in Canada and Scandinavia. What material to use and what should be the pie of overlap and walls – depends on the technology chosen, but there are clear rules that everyone should follow.

Canadian technology is more suitable for southern and central regions of Russia, and Finnish technology for northern regions. For any of the technologies, you can build a durable home for your family, and with your own hands.

My step-by-step instruction for the construction of a frame house is written according to a scheme. what needs to be done at this stage + additional links to how I did it and how it should be done. Do not skip links, otherwise the information will be incomplete.

Frame house. Project

It is better not to build a skeleton without a project. It is quite realistic to make a project (especially 6 × 6), but for a long time if the house is large and with a complex roof. Even a garden house with this technology may require design.

You can do the project gradually, in the days of rest from the construction site. We drew the binding – we built it, we painted the floor lagging – we implemented it and so on. True, this may lead to the fact that at some of the stages you will do something unforeseen in advance, but if there is no way out, then do so.

Solve the problem with the number of floors. It is very hard to build two floors with our own labor. Therefore, I chose the one-story. And I have a lot of layouts of one-story houses.

And if you don’t have time, order a typical or individual project from us (typical projects are 12 × 9, 7 × 7 in 2 floors or 11 × 9):

Build a skeleton himself? Need a tool and hardware

If you plan to build a house yourself, then without tools it will be hard. The list of necessary tools is already here.

It is also better to purchase pre-fasteners in bulk. In the frame house are used: nails 3.1-3.5 × 90 smooth, as well as 60 mm brushed nails (for wall covering of OSB) and 70 mm (for floor or roof covering by slab materials). Read more about fasteners here.

To build a skeleton itself is better than a nailing neyler, since there are 10-20 thousand nails on an average skeletons. Save your hands! To him you need to buy a hose, adapters, oil and compressor. Well, do not forget about the special nails, I immediately took 100 kg and there was almost no remnant, but I still manually punched 50 kg of ordinary nails. Buy also 5 kg of nails of 120 mm, sometimes come in handy (but I did not tell you that).

You may also need self-tapping screws for GKL and GVL, and it is simply useful to have self-tapping screws on hand to temporarily fasten an element, and then nail it down normally.

Also needed for frame construction brackets 6-9 mm. It is convenient to nail them with hydro and vapor barrier films.

Surely you will need dowels on concrete (for installing windows) or anchor plates (for the same purposes). But the perforated fasteners are better not to use, it rarely comes in handy in a frame house and only for special purposes.

Video about tools:

The foundation of the skeleton carpentry with his own hands.

Recently, it is fashionable to do under the UCB framework, but not everyone can do it on their own, although this is also real. I made a TISE for myself and I also recommend people who have come to me for advice, I recommend pile foundations (my detailed instructions for the link), they are more versatile and simple for self-realization.

Bored pile – it is better to do it yourself, it is better to order a screw foundation with installation (just avoid piles that were welded in an artisanal way and painted incomprehensibly than, their service life will be several times smaller than real screw piles, better good piles, but self-twisting).

Wooden piping is required on top of piles (or concrete grillage, which is monolithic, but harder and much longer)

Do-it-yourself floor beams

After we have a support (wooden strapping), we can nail logs to it (in the case of a concrete grillage, you must first screw a wooden plank to it flat on the photo above).

Lags (or floor beams) are usually made of 200 × 50 (195 × 45) planks with a pitch of 400-600 mm. Read more below links. It is important to nail them both to the intermediate supports and to the lag (this is the same lag, only across the other perimeter of the building)

By the way, the ceilings are made using the same technology with the help of the same lag, and then hemmed with plasterboard or clapboard from below.

Floor carcasses with their own hands.

If you are building using the “platform” technology, then you should put a black floor in front of the walls – usually it is plywood (FC 1525 × 1525 or FSF 2440 × 1220) or OSP-3 (2500 × 1250). Plywood FC is used only in the case of a non-classical platform, when the black floor is already made under the roof, as it is not very moisture resistant.

The technology platform in the frame house is especially popular and for good reason. It is much more convenient to build on it, since the walls can then be assembled on a flat floor.

Additional information and instructions on the subfloor:
Black floor in the frame house

Frame house independently: racks, strapping (walls)

On the “platform” frame walls are collected on a black floor and rise ready. It is allowed to assemble walls very quickly. Remember – in the frame house is not used timber. Neither the walls nor the floor. A beam is a cold bridge that “twists” very well.

Here on this video the house is built on the platform:

There is also a “ballun” system in which we assemble the walls by bed-time — I did it, in a sense, it is even more convenient, but still much slower, I would not recommend this system.

Additional information and instructions for frame walls:
The walls of the frame house

Shield house with your own hands! Openings in the walls

The openings in the Canadian and Finnish frame are made differently. And there is also Norwegian, it is something in between. In any case, any of these houses are not shield as they call it.

Nowadays, the popular Finnish technology of frame housing construction, when a bolt hits the full-length wall, and the posts of the openings do not double.

Roof and rafters frame house. Is it real to yourself?

Installation of the roof of a frame house is a very important event. Rafters (pictured) of the roof can be done both before and after wall cladding. I did the first trim, but often do the rafters before the trim (especially the Finns, who on the roof very quickly put the farm from the factory)

I delegated this stage, I could not master it myself, very heavy boards for rafters, you have to drag it to the very top and do everything very precisely.

Frame-shield house with their own hands. Wall cladding

Before sheathe the walls, you need to check their slope vertically. It is better to sew up the walls completely, and then cut the openings in the casing, so tight.

Usually the walls are sheathed with OSB, but I do not like this stove, it does not let off steam. It is better then to use the MVDP Beltermo or inch (as in my photo).

How to build a frame house. Selection and installation of roofing

Now is the time to cover the roof. We select the material, then choose the right pie roof (depending on the material and the room – it is warm or not). Do not forget that it is often necessary to pre-design the ventilation in order to lay penetrations for the ventilation pipes before the roof closes with the same shingles (with metal, all this can be done later).

Wooden Canadian house with his own hands. We tighten walls with a hydro windproof membrane

Before installing windows, it is better to sew the walls outside with a waterproof windproof film. At the same time, we protect the OSB from moisture.

Additional information and film instructions:
Films and membranes in the skeleton
Crate in the frame house

Windows and doors in the frame house

Installation of windows is better to do before the facade materials and insulation. So that later there were no problems with the design of slopes and wet insulation. Doors and windows can be taken as with the installation (expensive, but give a guarantee), or install it yourself (budget, but hard). Large windows from 2 sq.m. Better to put on pins on the concrete, small can be put on the plate. Do not forget about the professional foam, plastic special spacers, as well as the use of films (for the formation of a closed loop vapor and waterproofing.

Facade of a frame house with your own hands

The sooner we make the facade, the faster our designs will be protected from moisture, and the film from the sun’s rays (from which it gradually loses its properties).

Almost all the facades in the correct wooden house are made with a ventilation gap, so do not forget to buy a dry crate (buy 100 × 25 and cut along, as well as 50 × 50 – in the case of an option with external insulation to the ventilation gap).

Frame house do it yourself. Communications

Before weatherization, it is better to conduct basic communications in the house: sewage and water supply. Electrics and heating can be postponed, as they are made either openly or hidden, but in crates (after the main contour of insulation and vapor barrier).

The bathrooms of our frame-shield house – a separate topic:

  • bathroom floors should be well waterproofed;
  • the ceiling must be vapor proof;
  • walls must be vapor proof.

Additional information and communication instructions:
Communications in the frame house

Warming a wooden house with their own hands.

Insulated carcasses are usually mineral wool, but ecowool is becoming more and more popular. I, too, will insulate the house with ecowool, it has many advantages: price, lack of gaps in insulation, insulation speed, environmental friendliness (compared to mineral wool), lack of structural elements of a clear step (you can take a step lag at least 300 mm, the same with racks, you can safely put them through 600 mm).

Additional information and instructions for weatherization:

Vapor barrier in the skeleton.

After insulation, but before finishing or additional insulation inside, tighten all walls with an airtight, closed loop vapor barrier. Best of all, 200 micron thick plastic film and special butyl rubber tape are suitable for this.

Additional information and vapor barrier instructions:
Vapor barrier in the frame house

DIY frame: step by step instructions. Electrics and heating

Now is the time to connect electricity from the pole to your electrical panel (it is better to design and assemble it in advance, and before that get permission to connect a specific number of KWat).

After the house is insulated, but before the finishing stage – it’s time to also do heating. We start with the choice of heating fuel (wood, gas, electrics, gasoline), boiler, and then the material for heating pipes. Recently, increasingly in a frame house choose warm floors instead of radiators.

The Canadian wooden house is very warm, it needs to be well insulated once, and then you can even heat it with electricity. Of course, spending on electric heating will be 3 times more expensive than gas, but still less than what you pay in the apartment.

Interior finish: step by step instructions

The walls and the ceiling in a frame house are usually trimmed with gypsum plasterboard (plasterboard), and then it is painted or wallpaper glued onto it. GKL is good because it burns badly. In Canada, in general, without a GK, carcasters are forbidden to build according to fire safety requirements. And on our ceiling more and more often they are beating lining or imitation of a bar and painting (I like the particularly white color in this place).

After finishing the walls and the ceiling, you can pour the concrete screed, tile the floor or laminate, and then put interior doors. Particularly good Finnish interior doors, many praise them, but the price they are now exorbitant.

Congratulations! Connect plumbing fixtures, arrange furniture and can move in.

Here is an instruction for the construction of a Canadian or Finnish frame house. How do you?

Frame house do it yourself: photos of the stages of construction

Prefabricated houses are attractive because with the ready foundation you can put the house very quickly. For example, the construction of a frame house with your own hands, by two people, is possible in a month without haste. And this is if inexperienced workers are involved with the construction, who only know how to hold a hammer in their hands. All because the assembly takes place step by step: regular repetition of simple actions. It is only important to know how to properly assemble each node. Having the instruction, understanding the principle of construction, the frame house can independently assemble any.

No less attractive frame construction that can get by with minimal cost. How much money is needed specifically for construction depends on the size of the house, on the materials used (type and type of wood, finishing materials). But in any case, it is one of the cheapest methods. (About home building technologies read here)

Timber frame houses are not the only ones. There are regions in which wood is a luxury. They put metal frames. Given that metal is not cheap today, it still turns out to be relatively inexpensive.

An approximate estimate of the frame house 12 * 9 meters, prices are for 2013. You can estimate the current cost of components in your area.

One more thing. Many are interested in whether it is possible to leave an unfinished frame house, and if so at what stages. The answer is that it is possible, and the first stage is known to everyone: the finished foundation is left to spend the winter. Still possible wintering options in the following form:

  • foundation + frame + roof (without floor);
  • foundation + frame + roof + outer siding OSB + windscreen;
  • foundation + frame + roof + exterior lining of OSB + windscreen + mounted and heated floor and ceiling + partitions.

With windows and doors to leave for the winter without supervision is dangerous. In other cases, the postponement of the completion of construction is even not bad: the wood will dry out. In winter, as a rule, low humidity and drying is active. At the same time reveal all the shoals in the already mounted part.

In general, it must be said that it lives well in a frame house in which all the nodes are made correctly. This technology does not forgive mistakes. Even minor. If you want to familiarize yourself with the building codes, find joint venture 31-105-2002, which is called “Design and construction of energy-efficient single-family houses with wooden frames”. There are all descriptions and requirements.

Step by step construction instructions with photos

There are several different technologies for frame housing construction, but the classic method of construction is Canadian. It is also called the platform method, because first the floor of the frame house is assembled, and then the skeleton of the walls is assembled on it, like on a platform. Let us tell you how to build a house using this method. With the rest it will be easy to understand: only the sequence of actions differs.

Step 1: The Foundation of the frame house

The choice of the foundation is a separate complex and voluminous topic. The geological picture of the site, the height of the groundwater, the weight of the building and the seasonality of living in it, the region in which the construction takes place, snow and wind loads are taken into account. But in general, under the carcasses do most often pile, pile-grillage or strip foundations.

In our country, the palm in frame house-building with their own hands belongs to the pile-rostrum foundation. It is quickly built, requires small material investments, correctly calculated and built, it is reliable. Combining the advantages of both pile and belt, it evenly transfers the load to all supports.

More reliable in the construction of pile or pile-grillage foundations are piles TISE. Due to the extended heel, they have a greater bearing capacity and better resist heaving forces.

The device of the pile-grillage foundation with TISE piles

Drilling wells under the piles can be hand-drilled or motorized. As an opabulka they use rolled roofing material rolled into pipes of the required diameter (at least three layers should be screwed), fixed with scotch tape. Other options are asbestos cement or PVC pipes of suitable diameter. Three or four bars of reinforcement, interconnected in the form of a triangle or a square, are installed inside the piles. The reinforcement rods are cut so that at least 0.7-0.8 meters protrude above the pile surface. All is poured with concrete of a grade not lower than M25 (read about the grades of concrete here).

After casting the piles, the formwork for the tape (grillage) is installed, the fittings are laid and knitted into it. Longitudinal rods are connected with curved reinforcement releases from piles. At this stage, holes are left in the tape for supplying communications and ventilation (insert pieces of plastic pipes across the tape).

The strapping beam will be attached to the foundation tape later. For its installation in the tape fastened studs. They are installed in increments of 1-2 meters. From each corner to both sides retreat by 30 cm. Here studs are required, the rest, depending on the size of the house, but not less than 2 meters. Consider, what exactly hairpins connect a framework of the house with the base. Therefore it is better to deliver more often. And yet: no matter how short the wall, the studs must be at least two.

When everything is ready, concrete is poured.

Flooded grillage. The foundation for a frame house with your own hands is ready

After pouring concrete, so that it does not dry, but gain strength, it is better to cover it with polyethylene (see photo). If the temperature after pouring the foundation is kept within + 20 ° C, after about 3-5 days you can continue construction. During this time, under such conditions, concrete will pick up more than 50% of its strength. You can work with him freely. With a decrease in temperature, the period increases significantly. So at + 17 ° C you need to wait about 10 days.

Step 2: Bottom Rail and Floor

To prevent the wood of the frame from drawing moisture from concrete, a cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The most reliable is to make bitumen mastic. And better – in two layers. You can also use roll waterproofing. The roofing material is cheaper, but it eventually breaks. More reliable waterproofing or other similar modern material.

You can miss the grillage once with mastic, and on top roll out waterproofing. Another option for shut-off waterproofing under the frame house – two layers of waterproofing, smeared with mastic: the closer the groundwater is, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.

The first layer is liquid waterproofing. Until it is dry, you can glue a layer of roll on it.

Then stacked – board size 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and flame retardant compounds. The edge of the prone is aligned on the outer edge of the foundation. Holes are drilled in the required places for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is laid so as to block the joint of the first row. It turns out the lock.

The second board is stacked so that the joints overlap

In general, it is possible to lay one beam 100-150 cm, but its price is much higher than two boards, which together give the same thickness, and correctly fastened two boards have a greater bearing capacity, although it takes more time to lay them. So that they work as a single timber, they are knocked down with nails in increments of 20 cm in a checkerboard pattern.

We put the strapping and logs

Next to the rail board is attached strapping. Its size is also 150-50 mm, but it is placed on the edge. It is leveled at the outer edge of the foundation, and is nailed with long nails (9 cm) to the sunbath every 40 cm.

Installation of the harness: according to the instructions, the assembly of the frame house continues with the installation of the harness to which. will lag the floor

The next stage is the installation and installation of the lag. These are the same boards 150 * 50 mm, put on the edge. They are attached with two oblique nails (9 cm) in the butt to the trimming board, two nails on the right and left to the bedside. So each lag on both sides.

Installation example floor lag

The photo shows that the first lag is set close to the second – this is how the load on the foundation is transmitted better. It is installed on the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the length of the span and the section of the sawmill used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.

Lay and fixed floor logs

If the lags are long and there is a cross beam, as in the photo above, the lags do not “leave” over the cross beam jumpers are packed. They are equal in length to the installation step lag minus twice the thickness of the board: if the step is lag 55 cm, the thickness of the board is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.

Insulation and flooring

After the base under the flooring is installed, it is time for floor insulation. It can be done in different ways, with different materials. We show the economy option – with expanded polystyrene plates with a density of 15 kg / m3 (more can be, less – no). Of course, it is not environmentally friendly, but the only one is not afraid of moisture and can be mounted without a subfloor. The calculated insulation thickness is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one is 10 cm, the second is 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (they are shifted).

For a start, a cranial bar of 50 * 50 mm is packed on the bottom edge of the log. It will hold the foam.

At the bottom there is a frame from a cranial bar that will prevent polystyrene foam from falling out.

Polyfoam is cut by a usual hacksaw. The canvas can be taken on a tree – it cuts faster, but it turns out a ragged edge or on metal – it goes slower, but the edge is smoother. The cut plates are laid in two layers, the seams overlap. Then, around the perimeter, they are glued with sealant – to ensure waterproofing.

Next, lay the rough floor of the boards, align it and lay plywood on top (better FSF 5-6 mm). In order not to twist the rough flooring of the boards, lay the boards interspersed with the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross-section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, it is necessary for the arc to look up and then down (see photo).

How to properly lay the flooring of the boards

You can do without the flooring of the boards. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your area and choose.

In any case, the sheets should fit into the run – the seams should not be the same (as in the brickwork). Do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between the sheets of plywood to compensate for changes in size with changes in humidity.

Completed the second stage of building a frame house: flooring

Plywood is mounted on screws 35 mm long (better white – less waste) along the perimeter with a pitch of 12 cm, inside in a checkerboard pattern with a pitch of 40 cm.

Step 3: Frame Walls

There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part depends on the size) on the floor, then it rises, is exposed and fixed. Sometimes with this method, OSB, GVL, plywood are fastened directly to the floor on the outside of the frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called a frame-shield or “platform”. According to this principle, the factories mainly work: they build ready-made boards according to the project in the workshop, bring them to the site and only install them there. But the frame-shield housing construction is possible with your own hands.

One of the options for assembling a frame wall, the names of the elements

The second way: everything is going gradually, in place. The bar of the lower trim is hammered, the corner posts are set, then intermediate, the upper trim, etc. This is the technology called “frame housing construction” or “ballun”.

Assembling the frame of the walls with their own hands can be done gradually (technology ball) or blocks-shields (technology platform)

Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether there is an opportunity, at least periodically, to attract assistants. It is faster and more convenient to work on the floor than to jump up / down the ladder countless times. But if the section is large, it will be difficult to lift it even together. Exit – or call assistants, or break the wall frame into small segments.

Installation step and cross-section of racks

Corner posts should be 150 * 150 mm or 100 * 100 mm depending on the load and the required width of insulation. For a single-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story house – at least 150 mm. Intermediate racks in depth are the same as the corner, and their thickness – not less than 50 mm.

The step of installation of racks is chosen taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected on the basis of the insulation width. If you insulate with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The clearance between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste; there will be no gaps and cracks through which it will be warm too. The density of the installation of insulation in the cage – the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold. Therefore, the selection of insulation and its installation must be treated with full attention.

The option of gradual assembly of the frame of the house: the corner posts are set and fixed, the top trim is immediately mounted on them, then with the selected step vertical stands

Fastening racks is possible in several ways: wooden pins, with a hem or on the corners. The hem into the bottom trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. Corners are mounted on both sides. The fastening of the dowels is an old technology, but difficult to perform: they make long dowels, a hole is drilled through a stand and a bar of the bottom trim, a wooden thorn is driven into it, the surplus of which is cut off. It works well if the wood used is dry. If not, shrinking and loss of attachment rigidity are possible. Installation on reinforced corners is much easier.

According to Canadian technology, beams, to which windows and doors are attached, are made double. There is more load here, hence the support should be more powerful.

Reinforced racks near windows and doors are a must. Only in this way a frame house built with your own hands will be reliable.

Trims or bracing

If the outer plating is planned from high-strength plate material – OSB, GVL, GVK, plywood – mowing put temporary and inside the room. They are needed to align and maintain the geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is enough to create the required rigidity.

If sheathing is planned to be made up from lining, etc. installation of permanent braids is required. And the best option is not those who put on several racks, but four small pieces each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).

Such braces will give sufficient rigidity to the walls of the frame house.

Pay attention to the photo above the national team stand: two boards are knocked together with nails all over in a checkerboard pattern. These racks have an even greater carrying capacity than solid ones, cost less. This is a real way to reduce construction costs without losing quality. But time for construction increases: it is necessary to hammer nails a lot.

Corners of the frame house

Most questions arise when building corners. If you put a timber in the corner, then there seems to be no difficulty, except for the fact that the angle turns cold. In regions with a short and mild winter, this is not a problem, but already in central Russia requires some kind of solution.

Even with this option, the angle will be cooler

There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in the diagrams, so clearer.

When building a single-storey frame house, you can do so

With a residential second floor, the corners are made in one of these ways.

After assembling the frame, it is usually outside sheathed with OSB, plywood or other similar material.

Step 4: Overlap

Overlapping beams are based on the top trim bar. There are several ways to mount:

  • on supporting steel brackets;
  • on the corners;
  • with sidebar;

Cutting – cutting depth should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the upper trim beam. From above it is hammered with two nails, which should enter the strapping not less than 10 cm. Corners – the usual method. You can use enhanced, but not necessarily Perforated staples – the shape may be different Ceiling Beam Mounting with Metal Brackets

The dimensions of the beams, the pitch of their installation depends on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or attic. the section is taken more, the step is taken less: so that the floor does not sag. If on top only the roof and the attic are supposed to be uninhabited – these are completely different calculations and sizes.

In this one-storeyed frame house, the floor beams are at the same time a support for the rafters. Because they are released at 30 cm for the perimeter of the walls

If the second floor is completed, the overlap is sheathed with a rough floor of the second floor. So working on the creation of the second floor of a frame house will be easier. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first. Is it only the fact that all the lumber has to be dragged to the second floor.

Step 5: The rafter system and roofing material

When developing a house project on frame technology, the most popular are the gable or mansard roof. Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only restriction applies to the weight of the roofing: it must be lightweight material from which wooden beams and ceilings can withstand the load.

This is what the frame looks like before the trim. If the walls are not sheathed, slight fluctuations are felt when working on the truss system. The outer skin makes the frame much tougher. A gable roof with a raised puff was chosen. For the convenience of fixing truss legs along the edge of the floor joists, a bar of 50 * 50 mm was nailed. In the rafters under it was made gash. At installation, they at first simply rested in a bar, then fastened For fixing the rafters in a predetermined position before filling the crate, temporary jibs were used.

Step 6: Warming

It is possible to warm the frame house with any of the materials available on the market with the corresponding characteristics. They are all imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.

Basalt wool is the most popular insulation for frame walls. It comes in the form of rolls or mats of different densities. It is more convenient to install mats in the walls: they are denser and keep themselves well due to arching force. To do this, as mentioned above, their size should be 2-3 cm longer than the distance between the legs of the frame. Mats, of course, are additionally fixed with special fasteners, but it is more convenient to work than with a soft roll.

The most common cake warming frame wall

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics, good sound insulation. But there is also a solid drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected from all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from steam penetration. Therefore, from the side of the room, it is covered with a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which prevents the pairs from penetrating inside.

From the side of the street, thermal insulation made of mineral wool is closed by another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: a hydro-wind-protective vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown, from the side of the street it does not allow moisture in the liquid and gaseous state, and the pair can leave the insulation: vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only finishing work remains. Actually, all construction is over.

It looks like a basalt mat installed between the racks

Now you know how to build a frame house. Detailing some of the processes is far from complete, but you have a general assembly sequence. Perhaps you will be helped by another video from a professional carpenter who has been engaged in the construction of frame houses for decades (see below).

Video installation instructions for frame houses

These are three videos of a great carpenter, Larry Khon. Each of them lasting more than an hour. The technology of building a frame house on the finished foundation is painted in great detail.

According to this instruction, self-erection is possible without questions: all stages of building a frame house and small things are commented and explained, to the point of what kind of nails, how long, how many pieces with which step, to hammer in each node. Demonstrates the main problems that may arise and methods for correcting them. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, do not take the time – watch the movie. You will become much clearer.

The first part is the bottom trim and the floor.

The second part of the video is the device and assembly of frame walls.

The third part is the construction of the roof of a frame house.

If you still doubt whether it is worth building a frame house, this is probably because you heard that this is a bad technology, that it does not work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that in Canadian and American frame houses they put out of dry forest, humidity. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood from the sawmill brings almost natural moisture, which is up to 60%. Because the house leads and turns, they become cold.

But if you are going to build a house with your own hands, what will prevent you from using dry wood? Chamber drying it is expensive, the difference per cubic is very decent – almost twice. But by folding the wood on the plot into ventilated piles, it can be dried up to the same 20-22% per year. Saturate or not before drying bioprotection you decide for yourself. Dry wood does not rot and is not damaged by fungi, but from insects it is desirable to saturate it with bioprotection.

An example of such an opinion in the video. Explaining why the technology is bad…

Sources: http://okarkase.ru/frame-home/stroitelstvo-karkasnogo-doma-svoimi-rukami-poetapnoe-rukovodstvo.html, http://karkasgid.ru/karkasnyj-dom-svoimi-rukami-poshagovaya-instrukciya/, http://stroychik.ru/strojmaterialy-i-tehnologii/karkasnyj-dom-svoimi-rukami

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